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My 74 K5 build

awesome build

subscribed!:D

looking very very nice keep up the good work

Qucik question what kind of material did you use to make the "body cart" and is the top or part that the body is sitting on just a rectangle or did you weld in a couple cross bars? also if its not too much trouble could you get some dimensions on it?

again nice build:bow:
 
The cart that I made for the body is 1/8"x1" square tubeing welded together in an 8'x5' rectangle with the front two supports being I think it was 8" shorter in the front and 6" from the casters to the 8'x5' rectangle so the front 14" tall and the rears being 22" long and yeah I welded 4"x4" squares for the actual body to sit on. It's not that great I should have put some gussets on it to strengthen it up but it's doing what it needs to for now so it is what it is.
 
I'm back from vacation now and the mail man was good to me he dropped me off my new ORD doubler with the tripple stick and shifter rails I have gotten a new camera and I have picts I'll post of the kit up tomorrow. Today I pulled the transfercase and transmission from my old truck I'll be selling the th400 that was bolted up to the 205 I'll also need to sell the old blazer k5 frame and 74 c10 frame the th350 and transfer case that came out of the blazer the front dana 44 axle with 373 gears and I have 2 12 bolt rear axles with 373 gears 2 doors from the truck and that's all I can think of right now but let me know if you are interested in any of these parts.
 
Your going to have the heaviest K5 on the planet!!!. Im not trying to be down on your build but the material your using for your frame is WAY WAY WAY overkill. What on earth made you decide on 1/4 thick wall tube? Boxing the frame would have been just fine. There is a reason you NEVER see 1/4 think tube being used for a frame in anyone's build on this site, or any other 4x4 site. Its too heavy. Not to mention welding all those individual pieces, your going to have warpage to hell and back. I would bet you wont be able to keep those straight by any means.

Having the frame be in all those pieces welded together is not the right way to make a frame IMHO. If you just had to have a Rectangular tube frame you should have just found a metal fab shop that could bend Rectangular tube to the shape you wanted. All those straight across weld joints are going to be fracture points. Your going to have to fish plate the hell out of each and every single joint. Thats adding even more weight. Even the amount of weld your going to have to throw at it is a TON of welding, adding more weight, which ain't cheap, as far as fuel and wire, or rod goes.

Again, the cheapest and simplest way is to box the frame. You could allways add an extra strip of steel the width of the frame on the bottom of the frame for extra bash protection to keep from denting the frame. Or a welded on piece of say .125 angle, like 2" x 3" capped over the bottom outside corner for extra bash protection. Even those suggestions are un-necessary but its some aditional protection.

I apologize right off the bat, really I do, if you feel as though Im ragging on you. Im not, In my honest openion its just NOT the right way to go about what your trying to accomplish. I KNOW you have spent a ton of money on the tube as steel is CRAZY expensive. I see you have allready put alot of time into this fab project aswell. I hope your going to be happy with the results, but I doubt you will. I would start over with the build and just box the frame, or find a shop that does tube bending and have it Mandrel bent. I would not use more then say 5/32 wall (.156) thats PLENTY strong. Even 3/16 (.188) is WAY overkill and too heavy.

With the kind of weight you will be looking at your going to be breaking axle shafts, U joints, and god knows what else with a rig of that weight. A fully one toned caged K5 on say 42's, or 44's is in the 6000 to 6500 Lb. weight range allready. Thats with a stock frame. Those break enough stuff as it is.

Please, dont get mad regarding my post. If you disagree, cool, disregard what I have said and continue having fun with your project, no harm no foul. Its just my openion, You know what they say about openions...........

I wrote three posts and deleted every one. Normally if I disagree with something I just dont post. But I had to post about this. I have one question, What material are you using for the cage?
 
74chevy454, you got PM about your frame if you still want to get rid of it.
 
Well thanks for your advise and I expected to catch some scolding on here. I know that these welds will be possably weaker points but I am pretty sure they will not be put under enough stress ever to break appart. I am going to try and weigh the 2 frames and see how much weight I have gained but even then it's fine to me because im not trying to build the lightest rig out there I am going to be running a big block and 1 tons so a little extra frame weight I hope isn't going to kill me. I am just doing this because I like to fab and it's what I'm into right now. As far as warpage goes I'm sure it's not perfect but I am not new to welding I tacked all pieces together first then started welding skipping around from joint to joint to avoid the welds pulling the metal all out of wack.
The roll cage well I haven't gotten that far yet I figure after I get the thing together and maybe even running then I will start working the roll cage into the deal so stay tuned for that info =) Thanks for your input and have a great weekend
 
*ahem...if its welded correctly, the metal will rip before the weld gives, if metal rips at edge of bead,..you prolly had a little undercut,

i welded a frame together after shortning it from cc to regular cab car hauler and i fishplated it, although, i've read somewhere your not supossed to weld vertical on frame rails,but i did it by useing fish plate on outside of each rail w/ both sides of plate tapered at each end of plate(more weld area)...it bolted a reg cab perfect...i was proud of myself, the guy offered me the cc and i turned it down,i regret it so bad

if i was doin it i would have gotten mandrel bent tubing also, curious how this turns out, actually, i prolly would have just made it flat rails(tall enuff no need for frame to curve up for clearance)

are you using factory hangers & stuff on the custom rails?
 
74Chevy454 said:
Well thanks for your advise and I expected to catch some scolding on here. I know that these welds will be possably weaker points but I am pretty sure they will not be put under enough stress ever to break appart. I am going to try and weigh the 2 frames and see how much weight I have gained but even then it's fine to me because im not trying to build the lightest rig out there I am going to be running a big block and 1 tons so a little extra frame weight I hope isn't going to kill me. I am just doing this because I like to fab and it's what I'm into right now. As far as warpage goes I'm sure it's not perfect but I am not new to welding I tacked all pieces together first then started welding skipping around from joint to joint to avoid the welds pulling the metal all out of wack.
The roll cage well I haven't gotten that far yet I figure after I get the thing together and maybe even running then I will start working the roll cage into the deal so stay tuned for that info =) Thanks for your input and have a great weekend
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Thats cool, enjoy your project. Thank you for not taking offence to my post. It was not ment to offend in any way. As I said, Its just an openion. You have a good weekend aswell.
 
blazin_blazer said:
*ahem...if its welded correctly, the metal will rip before the weld gives, if metal rips at edge of bead,..you prolly had a little undercut,

i welded a frame together after shortning it from cc to regular cab car hauler and i fishplated it, although, i've read somewhere your not supossed to weld vertical on frame rails,but i did it by useing fish plate on outside of each rail w/ both sides of plate tapered at each end of plate(more weld area)...it bolted a reg cab perfect...i was proud of myself, the guy offered me the cc and i turned it down,i regret it so bad

if i was doin it i would have gotten mandrel bent tubing also, curious how this turns out, actually, i prolly would have just made it flat rails(tall enuff no need for frame to curve up for clearance)

are you using factory hangers & stuff on the custom rails?
Click to expand...

I am going to use custom brackets. I know that the actual weld area is stronger I was just sayin that yeah it is more suceptiable to being pulled apart because of all the bends I put in it vs. just runing the rails straight. I just made it like that because I figured they had bent it like that for a reason so that's why I tried to copy it.
 
Here are some picts of what I have been up to lately
ProjectK5153.jpg

ProjectK5158.jpg

205 removed from the truck
ProjectK5181.jpg

ProjectK5180.jpg

Turbo 400 removed from the truck and now for sale
ProjectK5184.jpg

Doubler plate bolted up to the 203
ProjectK5188.jpg

ProjectK5189.jpg

Stock rear 205 shift rail next to ODR's customized rail
ProjectK5191.jpg

ProjectK5192.jpg

Front 205 shift rail next to Ord custom shift rail
ProjectK5193.jpg

ProjectK5194.jpg

Allen wrench holding up the shifter fork while the shift rail is out
ProjectK5196.jpg

The 205 with both ORD shifter rails installed
ProjectK5197.jpg

Doubler about to be bolted together
ProjectK5199.jpg

doubler bolted together
ProjectK5200.jpg

ProjectK5203.jpg

ProjectK5201.jpg

Now I am working on boltong up the tripple stick will post picts when I get all the sticks linked up =)
 
I agree that your frame is going to be heavy but I don't think its going to be an issue. the issue is going to be drilling holes in it when you have too :D.

But hey really cool build, I would look into different suspension mounting points for the rear and do the 56/63 swap
 
Artemis Entreri said:
Holy friken Hell, dont know if id have the fortitude to try something like that, haha. Then again, nothing like that here on Staten Island anyway.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's quite a steep climb with about a 16" straight up lip at the top but that ol big block launched me right up and over the lip. can't wait till it's a Blazer
 
kgblazerfive said:
I agree that your frame is going to be heavy but I don't think its going to be an issue. the issue is going to be drilling holes in it when you have too :D.

But hey really cool build, I would look into different suspension mounting points for the rear and do the 56/63 swap
Click to expand...

I am going to 4 link the rear so no 56/63" swap but I may do the 56's in the front
 
Got the frame all squared away and am about ready to get the body set so I can get the engine tranny and T-case all lined up and in place. I have decided that I am going to run rockwell's But I am going to wait until I get to Utah before I buy the axles so my frame for now will be on these caster wheel's I hope the casters will hold up didn't get any picts today will get some soon
 
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