CK5
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My Build Thread - The stuff actually works

The changeover using the existing condenser won't do well in the summer (115 degrees) according to the shops and "experts" I spoke to.

At highway speeds it would work OK, but not at idle or on the trail.
All the trucks ,3, Ive had done work just fine at lights-around the city. There just trying to sell you stuff.
And Im only like 5* MAYBE 10* cooler than you.
 
All the trucks ,3, Ive had done work just fine at lights-around the city. There just trying to sell you stuff.
And Im only like 5* MAYBE 10* cooler than you.

Surprisingly, no one wanted to sell me anything. They all said not to waste the money for the change - over. Replace the dead parts for the R12 and move on.

I trusted one guy that did the change over on a 78. Cooler days, no problems. Hottest days, not so good.
 
I converted a 78 chevy once, new compressor/ dryer, flushed the condensor. charged it with r134 to 80% of the r12 cap. got the biggest electric pusher fan we could fit on the front of the condensor, I think it was in april or may, so it was pretty warm outside, the truck fogged the back window over it was blowing so cold. It was a steady 38* at idle.
 
I converted a 78 chevy once, new compressor/ dryer, flushed the condensor. charged it with r134 to 80% of the r12 cap. got the biggest electric pusher fan we could fit on the front of the condensor, I think it was in april or may, so it was pretty warm outside, the truck fogged the back window over it was blowing so cold. It was a steady 38* at idle.

What pusher fan did you use? Were you using the clutch fan as well, or just the pusher? Did you run it in July or August?

That is one thing that I was told would help and make it feasible.
 
still had a severe duty clutch on it, and it was a 12", I think, over the counter cooling fan. the guy that owned it was a bigger fellow, he ran that a/c year round.
 
I'm getting the parts tomorrow. I'm going to do the R134 swap. It will be cheaper to swap it over. It will cost me about $400 for the parts and freon for the R134A.

R134A Parts List:
Compressor -$180
Parallel Condenser - $100
dryer - $15
custom made lines - $60
orifice tube $1.00
Pressure Switch - $15

I have to fab up a bracket for the Seltec compressor. Everything else will bolt right up.

To replace the bad parts and refill with R12 will cost around $440.00
Compressor and Dryer: $240
Replace bad hose: $80
3# of Freon: $120.00

EDIT - Friggen evaporator couldn't be saved. $100 more.
 
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I actually priced everything out today. Fix the R12 = $532.00.
See Ya Later R12:
ByeByeR12.jpg


Replace everything and update to the R134 = $525.26.

I picked the parts up today:

r134.jpg
 
Ohhh subscribed the po of my rig riped out half the factory ac system ill be keeping a close eye on this one .. mind posting parts list and where u got em ect?
 
They made the hoses while I waited. You can select which fitting (45 degree, 90 degree or straight), the direction it faces, etc. I was really surprised how cheap the hoses and fittings were. Three hoses and all the fittings and ports were $60.00.

A single hose for the R12 and the A6 was $80.00+ from Napa.

The parallel condenser was only $100.00. I'll have to fab up a bracket for the new compressor, but that shouldn't be too bad. This compressor is 1/2 the size of the A6.
 
if you have a serpentine style, look for maxpf, he put that same comp on and didn't need to fab anything iirc.
 
One Step Closer to having AC

I pulled out the old compressor. The front of the truck rose 2" with that thing out.:doah:
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Used the factor bracket as a template for the rear new bracket:




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I ended up using two pieces of flat iron (2" x 4" x .250) to connect the new rear compressor mount with the factory mount.

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I put a piece of flat stock in the rear opening to give some added strength.
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I got it mounted tonight. I'll paint the bracket tomorrow.
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I HAVE AC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


It took a little longer than I wanted, but it's done. I moved the trans cooler to to the radiator side. I couldn't get the condenser that close to the radiator because of the fittings.
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Lesson learned on this - I would have had the high pressure cut - off switch mounted closer to the end of the line. It's kinda just hanging out in the middle of the engine bay. I don't like having to run wires out there like that.

I would have also gotten a different tube for the dryer. I had to "adjust" the evap low pressure side to accommodate the tube on the bottom of the dryer.
P1040214Medium.jpg
 
I stopped by Discount tire and picked up an old tire. I drilled out about 10 rubber circles from the sidewall with a 1" hole saw. I used them as bushings on all four condenser mounts.

I was able to get the compressor lined up pretty easily. I used a hole saw and drilled out 6 circles from 1/4 in plate. I made these spacers that lined everything up.

spacers.jpg
 
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