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My FAST EFI / fuel injection mod thread

Where does this wire go? It's part of the FAST harness but I don't understand what it's for. The harness has it's own fuel pump relay. :dunno:

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Quick pic of the TrickFlow bracket. :bow: I like it, but not real thrilled with the extra bend of the throttle cable. Stock is like that too, dunno, just wish it was straighter.

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Straight on shot

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Bracket I whipped up for the computer.

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The instructions have a couple pictures of the fuel regulator and how it's supposed to look. I put it together this way, but then noticed it show it a different way. The other way has the right side hole and bottom hole switched. The plug I currently have is supposed to be in the right side hole....and the fitting currently there should be in the bottom. :dunno: I kinda just let a friend put it together, but he followed one picture that seemed right. :doah:

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The wire for the handheld unit is short, not terribly, but the computer must be on the driver side of the compartment if you are going to install the handheld inside the cab. I'm having someone weld up a nice aluminum bracket to hold the handheld and be mounted to the dash. This way I can watch certain things on the fly.

I mounted the computer to the wheel well, hopefully it works out. I didn't have room on the firewall and didn't want to mount it directly to the wheel well. This bracket at least keeps it a little more out of harms way. I also mounted the fuel pump relay to the plate also. I still need to run the fuel pump power back towards the tank, but currently have no tank mounted. :( I also still need to finish off the RPM TACH filter and try to clean up those wires. My custom Y pipe still needs modifications to fit my new oil pan, so my O2 sensor isn't installed yet either. Most everything else is installed and ready to go.

The loop of wire under the computer is for my A.C. relay and electric fan. I don't currently have a working AC, though I could attach it for future use, I just left it wound up. The grey wire is for the fan control. I wont be using this as I already have a separate fan controller that does different speeds etc.
 
The fuel wire is for a separate fuel pump relay, like the stocker. I tried to use my stock fuel pump relay, and it did work long enough for me to set my fuel pressure, but then something burnt up. So I just wired up the relay that comes in the kit and discontinued using that wire, labeled for the "fuel pump".
 
I see much blood and bad scratches when you work anywhere near the ECM bracket the way the cap screws are facing out like that.

Maybe you could lay that bracket flat on the wheel well housing so it'll be more streamline. :dunno:
 
yeah, not fond of it either, but I want to keep it standing upright. I didn't want any mud or whatever getting trapped around it. The screws are ground down so there's no points. (would still hurt though) The screws coming up through the wheel well are not, but those would be hard to hit.
 
Maybe you could move that conduit tubing and mount it to the fender....or would it interfere with the hood closing?
 
yeah, the hood hinge is there. I had my eye on that spot right off the bat, but had to re-engineer that idea. The power/ground wire for the unit is perfect length to my passenger side battery. I didn't want to pull off my acc battery, especially after I get a winch hooked up to it. The communications cable for the handheld is routed inside the cab too. There is a little extra length, just enough to pull the handheld out the door window and watch it while I mess under the hood.
 
Well........I guess I have nothing more to say than be careful! :D That and your Blazer is looking baddass!
 
I used my old electric choke wire for my 12v switched. I wonder if it's hot during cranking too?
 
I put mine on the firewall right where that round black plastic vacuum bottle is mounted. Put the vacuum bottle on the fender, as it can take the vibration. Then you have a little more length for the handheld also. I also made a bracket to mount my monitor on the dash, so you can use it while driving.
 
You better double check that power wire with a test light, if it loses power during cranking it won't get any fuel to run other than the initial shot from key-on.

When I mounted my fuel regulator I took the top off and spun it 180 degrees so I could mount the piece to the firewall and still have the vacuum line coming off on the engine side. It doesn't matter which side you use for the inlet, as long the return line goes out the bottom, both side inlets are the same function. Remember the regulator is routed after the fuel rails.

As for the ECM, I mounted mount with a simple bracket above the gas pedal. Its hidden, easy to plug the handheld unit into, and locates the fuse and relays in the cab out of the weather. I usually don't leave the handheld plugged in, I only plug it in if I want to change something or look at live data for some reason, which is rare once you get everything running the way you want it.

That fuel line wire you don't need if you use the factory fuel pump relay harness. Although I did hook it up to a grounded switch so I could override the fuel pump to on and set the fuel pressure with the engine off. Makes it easier to adjust fuel pressure, but then I never use it any more.
 
Could that wire be used for an anti-theft switch?

Also, I still can't get the fitting on the hose. I'm so pissed, I have asked hose making specialists in the area to put one in and they can't. It seems I've wasted more time on this fuking hose than it took me to install the whole kit.
 
K85 Octane said:
Could that wire be used for an anti-theft switch?

Also, I still can't get the fitting on the hose. I'm so pissed, I have asked hose making specialists in the area to put one in and they can't. It seems I've wasted more time on this fuking hose than it took me to install the whole kit.
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Yep, I hated that hose. I had to have the leather gloves to help me. Also, freezing the fittings may be hurting you. It may cool the hose down too quickly to slip over the fitting, whic is probably not worth the thousandths of an inch or less smaller it becomes. It took me over an hour and several tries to get the first fitting on. Once I got that one on and the process down, I could get the others in seconds after 7 minutes of prepping with hot water and oil, gloves, etc. Even then I would screw it up 1/3 of the time and have to start over.

Apparently Zim used a different pushlock hose without the braid that was much easier to assemble for his tranny lines. I just used what came with the kit.

Also, that wire cannot be used as a theft deterrent, it can onyl turn the fuel pump on, but the fuel pump will still turn on via ECM no matter what you do with that green wire (if you are using the factory fuel harness relay).

If you want a theft deterrent just put a switch on the wire that powers your distributor to cut off spark. Or you could simply put a switch in the tach feed wire for the ECM. If the ECM can't see a tach signal it won't supply any more fuel (other than key-on). Or a seperate switch for the 12V signal wire that turns the ECM on. Then it won't even get any fuel at key-on.
 
you can turn the rpms way down with the handheld so even if it gets stolen it will only go so fast
 
What do you think about heating the fitting and hose? I'm worried the fitting, with it's little rubber grommet, is going to melt. I currently have one fitting pressed damn near the end, but of course that's the easy part. I'm wanting to soak the whole thing in boiling water and try again.
 
Reading these posts makes me feel better about my hose/fitting troubles. I installed mine with the supplied fittings, the next 4 ez's I installed for customers I bought different barbed AN fittings. Never had any failures or blowoffs to date. Honestly I'm more concerned about using the supplied fittings all the times I kinked the hose pushing so hard.
Fass fuel pumps come with the same fittings that fast uses but different hose and you can put those on without a vice and boiling water.
 
I had blisters on my hands from installing the hoses to the fittings. I dipped the ends of the hoses in boiling water and used lube, but still could not get them all the way on. Just to be safe I installed hose clamps on all the fittings.
 
K85 Octane said:
What do you think about heating the fitting and hose? I'm worried the fitting, with it's little rubber grommet, is going to melt. I currently have one fitting pressed damn near the end, but of course that's the easy part. I'm wanting to soak the whole thing in boiling water and try again.
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I don't know, I never tried that. Once the hose stopped moving I was usually never able to get it to go any further. So I would just cut it off and do it over being careful not to scratch the fitting and cause a leak.

Don't know the temp limits of the rubber grommet but I think the hose is rated for 300F, assuming the fittings aren't the weak point, boiling it shouldn't hurt it, but I dont know.

I know one thing, I told myself I would never buy any more of that hose. And the next plumbing job I did I got the black braided race hose and the standard AN fittings. That pushlock sucks.

The race hose has a stainless braid inside the nyon braid, so it's harder to cut. But assembling it to the hose ends is as easy as dropping some oil on there and the threaded collar, sliding it together and tightening the fitting.
 
Do you have a link of some sort for this type of hose and fittings? Not sure I understand.

I may have to call FAST again and ask my other question.
 
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