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My FAST EFI / fuel injection mod thread

I'll make the adjustment to the fuel pressure. I don't hear the injectors while cranking either.

Key on, press on gas pedal, crank, no injector pulse, POP, key off.
Pretty much my whole routine. I'm trying to get some help finding TDC. Basically another finger to hold over #1 cylinder :)
 
kauzenkaos said:
Low battery caused that symptom on a customers car. Had enough voltage to crank but not enough for the efi I guess. I also had mine stop pulsing after it set when I was doing the trans swap. Just had to reset the tune. All I know is that the engine won't run if you don't hear the pulse at key on.
Click to expand...

I did a reset (where it asks engine size, throttle set, etc) and nothing changed in the way it acted. I've had my Optima on a maintainer charger for some time. I tested something the other day and it came in at 11.x volts. Not sure if that's too low or not. The system clicks on and runs the fuel pump with key on. It also comes on with my bypass since my key on doesn't have voltage while cranking (electric choke). So while cranking, I press my bypass button. It works just so everyone knows :D

I'm worried about my fuel pressure not holding. It loses ALL pressure within ~25 seconds, drops from 50psi to 20psi within 5 seconds. The sending unit is brand new, Walbro new pump, new lines. I don't see or feel any external leaking. The inside of the intake manifold looks dry. :doah:
 
My fuel pressure drops off pretty fast too once the pump shuts back off. I think sometimes the check valves don't work like they should, but I haven't had it cause any issues so far.

I bought one of those cheap switches with jumper wires that you clamp to the starter terminals so you can crank it yourself.
 
My fuel pressure drops off while sitting too, its normal.

Check your plug wires and make sure they aren't swapped around. Easiest way to find TDC is to pull the valve cover and watch the action of the valves. After the intake closes keep rotating the engine until you 0* on the timing tab. To confirm stick a screwdriver into the spark plug hole as it reaches tdc you will feel the piston top out. At this point pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointed to the #1 plug wire.
 
K85 Octane said:
I'm trying to get some help finding TDC. Basically another finger to hold over #1 cylinder :)
Click to expand...

Shove a wine cork, rubber stoper, or some other obstruction into the #1 sparkplug hole (not too hard). Turn the crank by hand and watch for the cork to shoot out like a pop-gun. That is your compression stroke on the #1. After that, just line the timing mark up at TDC.
 
LOL the wine cork didn't pop out :( but I saw my neighbor outside and I asked his thoumb for assistance. Got it on TDC compression stroke and checked the timing.....

Picture.jpg




Who came over and changed my timing when I wasn't looking! I don't know how this happened. I pray it was just the installer and not some weird sh1t, which would make more sense seeing how the whole build has gone. I can't believe it was off. The first two times I installed a dizzy, they were perfect (except timing it some obviously) and so third times the unlucky charm I guess.

I broke a spark plug removing it so I could turn the engine over by hand. Autozone has to order it, but can't cause their supplier doesn't even have one. NGK V power 7. Pepboys was closed. I didn't have the energy to ride my bike over to Oreilly's.

Also, my DD s10 is having trans problems. Wonderful
 
You couldn't get a similar plug from a different manufacturer? I would have because if I were you I'd be chomping at the bit to get this thing running! HURRY IT UP!
 
I am, but I swear, every time I feel this close, something happens to set me back several steps. The DD's trans going out is one of them, but I have the funds to fix it, so it shouldn't stop me. It has hindered me from getting some things though.

I checked with Oreilly's and they have those plugs in stock. For whatever reason, I didn't want to run different plugs, something in my head said "it ain't right, resistance and electricity will be different". Crazy stuff, but I can wait a day to get what I want.

Also, it was mentioned before, to check my computer's reading of the RPM. At cranking, it read 750rpm, which isn't right. I have to work on that too.

What is everyone's "at rest" percentage for idle? Without adjusting mine, it's at 3%. The throttle blades are completely closed. Does it idle like this? I think my old Q-jet was like that, but it had bypasses and such. What % should I run for idle?
 
You mean throttle position %? You are supposed to calibrate the TPS so it knows where idle and full throttle is (you do this in the initial setup screen). Have you touched the idle scew on the side of the throttle body?

Stop over thinking, put the new plug in, and start it already! :D
 
I haven't touched it out of the box. Just seems the blades shouldn't be closed.

After work today, I'll pick up a spark plug. I desperately need to do my laundry, like wearing the same pair of work pants for 5 days, all of them :doah:It's sad, getting put off to do laundry :rolleyes:
 
K85 Octane said:
I haven't touched it out of the box. Just seems the blades shouldn't be closed.
Click to expand...

The blades will be close to closed because the IAC valve lets the air in. If it doesn't say 0% at idle then you need to recalibrate the TPS in the setup menu. You may have to do it again once you get it warmed up, because you want the throttle blades so it has 20 counts on the IAC at idle when warmed up in neutral. Calibrating the IAC will walk you through this.
 
She lives! I need to button up some things and get her to a shop for all the rest of the stuff. Went through the setup stuff but have only had it idling. I can't drive it yet, no brakes or seats. I can't wait to get it back from the two shops I'm sending it to. From there it will go to another shop for the rollcage and seat mounts.

Right now, I'm making sure my E-fan works right and I need to confirm my oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. My electric one is hopefully screwy.
 
K85 Octane said:
She lives! I need to button up some things and get her to a shop for all the rest of the stuff. Went through the setup stuff but have only had it idling. I can't drive it yet, no brakes or seats. I can't wait to get it back from the two shops I'm sending it to. From there it will go to another shop for the rollcage and seat mounts.

Right now, I'm making sure my E-fan works right and I need to confirm my oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. My electric one is hopefully screwy.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Bout time! How's it sound? Do you like it?

Fyi, every time you start it it'll run better and better so if it was a little rough at first don't worry about it, it smooths out once the computer learns your engine.
 
K85 Octane said:
I did a reset (where it asks engine size, throttle set, etc) and nothing changed in the way it acted. I've had my Optima on a maintainer charger for some time. I tested something the other day and it came in at 11.x volts. Not sure if that's too low or not. The system clicks on and runs the fuel pump with key on. It also comes on with my bypass since my key on doesn't have voltage while cranking (electric choke). So while cranking, I press my bypass button. It works just so everyone knows :D

I'm worried about my fuel pressure not holding. It loses ALL pressure within ~25 seconds, drops from 50psi to 20psi within 5 seconds. The sending unit is brand new, Walbro new pump, new lines. I don't see or feel any external leaking. The inside of the intake manifold looks dry. :doah:
Click to expand...
I don't know how your battery is below 12volt and you still got it to start.
Is it still that low?
What's the voltage with engine running?
Low voltage could have killed the walbro pump.
 
That reading was at the bus bar where the FAST system gets it's power from. Not good. Since then I used my coil wire to trigger a relay. That relay feeds straight battery power to the bus bar fixing the issue. The pump would have been getting more than 12v the whole time.

And right now I'm running a DR244 alt, I think it is. It needs a computer input to reach 14.xx volts but I don't have that, so it runs at 13.5 volts all day. With everything on, and I mean EVERYTHING, it drops to 13.2v. I'm thinking it's good :D
 
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