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My first lift kit
- Thread starter clutch2k3
- Start date
Trust me you won’t disconnect it on the fly. 2.5” springs might be on the smaller side to need correction. The closer you keep the ends level to the ground the better it works. If the ends are running “downhill” to the axle it effectively shortens the bar and makes it act like a stiffer unit. It’s not a dealbreaker though. You can add that in later if you wanted to.
Sway bars are one of the items that people’s opinion differs. Some ditch them altogether some keep them and some use the disconnect off road. For a rig that sees more street duty than off road I would keep it. Put the lift on it and see how the bar fits.
Sway bars are one of the items that people’s opinion differs. Some ditch them altogether some keep them and some use the disconnect off road. For a rig that sees more street duty than off road I would keep it. Put the lift on it and see how the bar fits.
the sway bar will fit on 2". It can be a bear to bolt in. Might need to slot the frame brackets. Possibly start all the sway bar bolts before tightening down the u bolt on the front axle.
If the tooth counts are 12 and 41, that's a 3:42 (opt GU6), which matches the part number 1235128. 42/12=3.5, which isn't a common ratio. "9 88" should be the date code.
See https://ck5.com/forums/threads/a-little-gear-ratio-help-please.107689/
Swaybar disconnect can be done later on if you want. A fixed bar isn't compatible with arched leafs to begin with, so technically even stock vehicles should benefit. The pivot point removes the inherent binding of the leaf changing length as it flexes.
U bolts will be required for the front with your new leafs. If you are doing a shackle flip in the rear you don’t need new u bolts unless you want them. ORD may be thinking that you are going to completely remove the leafs to install the brackets, which you can but it’s not necessary.
The caveat to all of this is that only you can be the judge of the condition of your factory parts. I mean if your brake lines are shot then you should replace them, same with your front shackles…..even though some things aren’t “necessary” now is a great time to do them because it’s already apart and a lift will only exacerbate a problem that’s already there. Good time to check all your steering, ball joints, tie rod ends etc.
one thing about u bolts, factory and "kit" bolts are 9/16" dia ORD are 5/8". U bolts stretch when properly tightened, this why reuse is discourage, esp in rusty areas of the world.
440 of that quote is the Bilstien shocks, well worth the money. I am running them, many others are here.
440 of that quote is the Bilstien shocks, well worth the money. I am running them, many others are here.
I think you can cut all of the second list except for $50.00 u bolts, and you might be able drop the $33 eye bushing in the first list. I would think the new Skyjackers will come with plan Jane poly bushings in black.
I’m from the northeast so I have never even had the option of reusing a u bolt 
I questioned that $33 as well, I thought skyjackers came with bushings already in them.
going to need to set pinion angle 98% sure . . . and use steel shims NOT aluminum .
and when did ord drop tuff country springs ?
i like tuff country or BDS for soft ride .
who or why are they selling you a rear u-bolt reversal kit ? ........ thats for heavy 3/4 and 1ton with u-bolts pointing down . 1/2 ton and light 3/4 ton are already pointed up .
Good point….on a truck I didn’t need to at only 2.5” but on a blazer it might be needed. Personally it wouldn’t hurt to have u bolts on had….not something you can easily grab on a weekend.
short wheel base of blazers = the most needed work with smallest lift height change .
If you end up swapping out the springs and shocks for good ones later, that $600 got you some U-bolts and a lot of work. Yes, it will make the truck sit higher and if all you want to do is look at it, that's fine. We're just telling you from experience that using the vehicle is much more enjoyable with a suspension that moves. 22+ years ago I fell for the cheap RC price tag and eventually had to accept the fact it was way too stiff no matter what shocks I tried and yanked it back off to pay for Tuff Country (which was a big improvement). Years later, when I found myself falling behind IFS trucks on 2-track roads, I paid a 3rd time for custom springs, which overall has been one of the most enjoyable upgrades.
You could bide your time and wait for some good used parts to come up for sale and piece it together slowly to control the budget. For example, you could run somebody else's used shocks or grab the $35 Rock Auto Ranchos for now and spring for Bilstein later, since shocks are so easy to change.
We haven't even really touched on the super cheap options that are available when you only need 2" of lift.
For example, you could get 1" EZ-inch (tapered?), and 6" shackles up front. In the back, you could do a 2" block. This will probably be noticeably lower, since your factory springs are probably at something like -1" lift now.
For example, you could get 1" EZ-inch (tapered?), and 6" shackles up front. In the back, you could do a 2" block. This will probably be noticeably lower, since your factory springs are probably at something like -1" lift now.
That is what I was thinking. For only 2" of lift there are lower price options like lift blocks, ORD Zero Rates, longer shackles. The only pain in the @SS will be replacing factory bushings. Those things can be a bear to remove. I burned mine out with a propane torch.
Just remember you always get what you pay for….I like cheap as much as the next guy…..longer shackles give a negative effect on front pinion rotation, blocks on add to already likely worn out factory springs, you still need to address shocks. It’s not that it won’t work but like mr goodwrench said “you can pay me now or you can pay me later”
