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need dash switch for rear window '84 K5

bigghoss

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I've checked everywhere I can locally and I cannot find the switch that controls the rear power window for my chevy blazer and LMC truck doesn't have it either. anyone know where I can get one?
 
well in my search I found 3 websites that have "tailgate release switches" for my blazer and they say it's for the rear window but it looks like the power window switch for the door and mine doesn't look anything like that. I did totally forget that there are 2 chevy dealers in town so maybe they might have it or I could try one of the other type of switch and maybe it will at least fit the hole in the dash even if I have to wire it, or as a last resort I could use a generic switch and make some kind of plate to fit over the factory hole.
 
I grabbed one from a Suburban I saw in a junkyard for my "burb" in case I needed one someday...you may find a Suburban in a boneyard a lot easier than a Blazer...

Have you looked in Brothers or Harmons sites,or Classic Chevy Truck Parts??..if a dealer can still get one AC parts direct may list it also...Dorman is adding a lot more switches to their listings too,I dont know if this is one of them though..
 
thanks for that octane. Orvac.com didn't have the switch you used but a google search found one for $8. I'm going to check the chevy dealerships and then radio shack and if I can't find anything I'll have a place to order it.

I just noticed that even thought the part # matches the website lists it as a double pole. wouldn't I need a triple pole?

I did think about looking online under suburban but I didn't think to ask the clerk at the junkyard. I did check dorman and I'm browsing classicparts.com. I can't believe this thing is so hard to find.

just for reference when it comes to switches "DPDT" means I have to hold it on, correct? I see these acronyms and I'm guessing they refer to either a momentary or constant switch.
 
DPDT just means that there are two poles and they switch between two contacts. If they don't say, then its usually constant on in each position.
Sometimes they are momentary in one position or both. Momentary means you have to hold it in that position.

Sometimes they use a different way to show.
ON-ON, means constant in each position. ON-OFF-ON means constant with a center position where all contacts are off.
If there is a momentary position, it is indicated by ellipses like this
ON-OFF-(ON). Or (ON)-OFF-(ON). That would be one momentary position in the first place and two momentary positions in the second.
 

it's close but if you read one on position is constant and the other is momentary.

I know that I need a (on)-off-(on) rocker switch and have found a few. I think it's as simple as finding one with 3 posts and connecting the 3 wires (the original switch has a plug with three prongs) but the switch the octane used that is supposed to fit and work only has 2 prongs. if all I have to do is get a 3 prong switch and wire it in then I'll do that and make a new bezel from whatever scrap material I come up with.
 
I got my switch at napa.Truck didn't originally have rear power so made my own harness.The switch is being used as a ground source for 2 relays I have mounted in the rear of the truck.The switch carries no real load the relays take care of that and it works perfect.
 
doesn't really mater how many tabs are on the back, the one I used is just like this one:
http://www.itcelectronics.com/product_info.php?products_id=3634

it has 6 tabs on the back, I just used one row. If you can find a (ON)-OFF-(ON) with just one row, that's fine too. I can guaranty the one I used fits PERFECTLY into the stock dash bezel. It works so nice and looks great. You only have to cut off the old connector and put spade terminals on, big deal.

PS: You are going to want at least 20amps. I have had no problems running this switch. :waytogo:
 
ok well I'll order one of those rocker switches since nobody has one in town. in the meantime I found a toggle switch and just like you said I hooked up one side and it worked fine the first time. it's not mounted though but it's only temporary since all my tools are in the back of the blazer and I need to get back there. the window motor is in better shape than I though but the back window is still slugish. need to make up my mind if I want to convert to a manual or fix what's there. right now I'm leaning towards keeping the power. if it made it this long I probably won't have to tear back into it again for a while if I do a preemptive strike and replace the motor now and try to clean and lube the internals as best I can while I'm in there.

good news is, the issues with the rear window are the worst thing wrong with the rig aside from the fact that it's still running around on 235/75r15s
 
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