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Need help with ringing bell sound 1986

My internet sucks, but I'm going to guess cracked flexplate based on your description. Pretty common.
 
That is a bad u-joint. From the looks of that front one it is an original still. I would recommend changing all the u-joint in that rear shaft and i'll bet at least one of them come apart all dry and rusty dust.
 
20 sec in to it .

time for a pair of u-joints. if you drop the shaft to replace 1 best just do both.

you will find dry grease in prob 3 caps. and 4th will be none and chewed up needles and severe grinding spots on the cross were the cap/needles goes.

the bell/ding is the bad cap with no grease and chewed markes grinding its self apart and it echo's in the drive shaft tube like a MEGA PHONE :ears:
 
Go tap the driveshaft with a tool and you will hear that same tone. The only question is what's exciting it. Probably a bad U-joint, like posted above.
 
thanks for the help!
Next question is....do I replace the whole drive shaft to make it easy?
I assume ill spend around $1-$200 dollars?
If I drop shaft, do I need to replace bearings or seals in transfer case or diff?
If anyone has a link to a step by step, it would help.
Plan on spending the day tomorrow fix'in..

Thank you,
Ptrparker
 
u-joints around 15-20 each for average store units.

and 2 hr or so for new guy trying to replace .

you need to heat up yours tho as still plastic molded in orignal caps. but aftermarket come with clips and all will be good.

search youtube for some videos to get a idea.
 
you guys called it...
after further inspection this is what I found...
is there a high performance shaft that I could just drop in to reduce labor/time?

badUjoint_zps0db02b50.jpg



I also saw this on the front diff.. is it serious?

frontdiff_zps62631d43.jpg
 
no cheep off the shelf shafts . and you just need u-joints.

if you think you cant handle it find a local shop to do it . or even a driveshaft shop.

not to be a dick but if you havent got a clue on how to change these pay to have it done or read a lot first. done wrong can damage stuff if it lets go . can take out exaust / body parts / gastank on trucks . read a lot first . there not that bad and easy if you see how its done right the first time.

also thats a plug weld from the factory . its normal.
 
So the U-joint is fragged. No biggie-just replace it. Unless you've made some other mods, there's no need for a new driveshaft. If you want it to be quick, a shop should only charge an hour for that job. But this is CK5 and we'll all tell you it's a basic maintenance item you should learn to do at home.

There's a hundred posts on how to change them, so let me just emphasize safety. CHOCK THE WHEELS BEFORE DROPPING THE DRIVESHAFT.

As for the front end, what are you concerned about? The plug weld? I don't see anything concerning.
 
thank you everyone for the help!
Problem solved..I removed the drive shaft and dropped it off at a drive shaft shop; 1117 W Foothill Blvd, Azusa, CA 91702, (626) 334-2418. Very honest and friendly, I highly recomend. I had the shop do the u-joints because I wasnt sure about burning out the old ones.
I had them back in 4 hours. He showed me the warn ones and he was imoressed with the wear, the joint was ground down and looked like a gear...I also replaced the seal on the transfer case because it was accessable. Drove around and all noise gone. I had thought for the past year that my front bearings were bad, turns out it was the drive shaft the whole time. While I was waiting I decided to change the water pump, air pump, and alternator, etc....Rinning great!
Next item on the list are the vaulve guide seals......

Thank you again to everyone, without this site I may have paid for labor, diognosis, etc...saved a lot of cash. This form is very helpful

Thank you!
 
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