What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Need help with trans and transfer case shift linkage

Abusfullofnuns

Abusfullofnuns

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Posts
1,434
Reaction score
1,448
Need some help.

I've got a 6.0 and 4l80e swapped into an 88burb.

I just installed the TNA mounts and crossmember in the truck. The mounts moved the motor back 1.5 to 2 inches from where it previously was set up. Unfortunately, this is causing lots of problems from exhaust clearance to driveshafts.

The issue I need help with is around the shifters. Neither trans or transfer case shift linkage will work anymore. The transfer case just needs a longer rod. I have a NP208. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

The transmission linkage doesn't line up nice with factory fixed pivot anymore. In addition, the rod from the column no longer reaches. I'm adding a pic of the linkage. I've massaged it a bit to make it closer, but the rod definitely won't reach, and I'm hoping there's a better way. I don't like ghetto, which this feels a lot like.

Thanks in advance.

IMG_0389.JPG
 
skunked said:
Can't you just extend it?
Click to expand...

Extend the threaded rod for transfer case? Or shift rod for column?

I sold my welder before I bought this truck, but I guess that might be my only option for the trans. It still doesn't solve my alignment issue with the rest of the linkage. I assume there's got to be another solution. I've never had an auto in the column in my custom cars. This is my first go around with a factory-ish auto set up.
 
I was talking about the trans linkage. The pivot for the linkage is bolted to the frame, I see no reason why that couldn't be moved so it lines up with the trans better.
 
I'll have to look at the pivot again. I definitely didn't notice it was bolted to the frame. That would make that part easier.

@truck-oholic is a friend of mine and he suggested that we do some rework on the mounts. I'm leaning this way, as he pointed out that it fixes all of my issues. I didn't even consider it, as I was just trying to get everything back together as quick as I could.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
I'll have to look at the pivot again. I definitely didn't notice it was bolted to the frame. That would make that part easier.

@truck-oholic is a friend of mine and he suggested that we do some rework on the mounts. I'm leaning this way, as he pointed out that it fixes all of my issues. I didn't even consider it, as I was just trying to get everything back together as quick as I could.
Click to expand...

It should have two bolts on top of the frame. I just stripped all of that stuff off my frame.

@truck-oholic can weld something up for you as plan B
 
call ord and have them sell you 2 hiem joints and a threaded rod to make your own shifter link fully adjustable. and cut the rod with a hacksaw .

auto shifter check out lokar cable conversion kit for our style columns and bam no more link rods and clearance for exhaust.
 
Everyone is fixating on the shift linkage but the bigger problem is really the driveshafts and exhaust. This install has moved the entire drivetrain and fully welded exhaust back roughly 2" throwing everything out of whack. Extending the shift linkage is missing the forest for the trees. The tabs on the motor side adapter plate just need to be cut off and welded back on all the way rearward and everything goes back to the way it was before.
 
Did you get this all fixed up? I got the same setup so I'll be running into this problem too. I was looking at the column shifter linkage from classic performance products but if the stock linkage will work I'd rather stick with that.
 
Yes and no.

@truck-oholic came through big time and we changed the tabs on the motor mount to all the way rearward. By doing this, it got me close enough back to my original position that the transfer case linkage, exhaust, and driveshafts are fine. However, this shift rod for the trans was barely long enough and the angles caused the shifter to not align with the tabs on the gear selector. I had to massage the massage the rod a few different times to get it to align closely enough to make it through the gears without binding. That being said, it is real close to the rear shackle. I had my truck out in the woods this past weekend and the shifter got stuck in first. When the truck was flexing with the driver side higher and uphill, it allowed the shifter to contact the shackle and prevent me from moving the shifter. I needed reverse badly and had to get under the truck and help it. I'm not going to do anything for mine yet because I am about to move the shackle mount anyway.
 
Www.shiftworks.com has some linkages that I'm looking at. Rod can be bent to fit. Think these would work? Only $50 so it might be worth a shot. I don't have the drivetrain in so its hard for me to visualize any clearance issues.
 
Yes, I think so. I'm going to run out and check to make sure nothing would be in the way of a straight shot of the shift rod.
 
chris85 said:
Looks like you had to cut the tabs on the block mounts and reweld?
Click to expand...

Yeah, but remember I had a running and driving truck prior to the install. There was not much forethought given to changing the set up around when the truck was assembled. I'm dealing with that now.

Here is a pic of my shift linkage. In order to get he rod through the selector, it took significant repositioning of the angles. Also look where it connects to the column rod, before moving the mounts, it wouldn't reach.

I think the link you posted would work, but we need it shorter than 7", so will probably have to cut the column rod down some.

IMG_0851.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom