Need trans and tcase ideas for driver side drop

[WAR WAGON]

I have decided to keep my old truck alive and not scrap it. It's in pretty bad shape though. My last outing, I split the NP208 into 3 pieces. After that, I stripped the truck and built another.

I have a 2005 Dodge AAM 9.25 front and a 2002 Dodge Dana 70U laying around with nothing to do. The plan so far is shackle flip and stock 52s, 3 link and coilovers in the front.

I also have a Ford NP205 that I have no use for. Advance Adapters sells a kit that will put the 700R4 and 205 together for ~$600. The 700R4 could use a rebuild anyway, so swapping in the new output shaft isn't a big deal really.

My question for you is, is it worth it to rebuild the 700 and spend another $600 to swap in the 205? Or does anyone have any better suggestions? TH350 or 400? I'm not looking to cut corners, but would like to use what I have laying around if I can.

And because everyone likes pictures...

 

[WAR WAGON]

Or I could buy another 208 and put another set of rockwells under it.

I don't know

 

[skunked]

you can adapt a th400 to a Ford NP205 using an adapter that ORD sells

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/TransferCaseAdapters.htm

that would be a stronger setup than a 700 however you won't have overdrive. Really depends on what you intend to use the truck for.

 

[WAR WAGON]

Well that's pretty cool, thanks!
I meant to add that in my first post. It won't see the street, just the ranch.

Just read the 205 needs a Chevy input shaft.

 

[dyeager535]

I've been on the NP241 kick for the last few years.

The 205 really has nothing going for it vs. the 241 (fireproof suit on) and since it was used with more "modern" drivetrains, the drivers drop is going to be a non-issue.

I'm running a 205 presently, but I base my thought on the 241 being better on these facts: The 241 is lighter...it's easier to remove and install. It's more common with a 6 bolt pattern, so cheaper. It's easier to find. It's got a far better low range. Rebuild is easy. Clocking is easy. Shifting is easy. It's rated for more power.

The 205 I assume is better for doubler applications, and if it hits a rock. If you don't need the former, and mitigate the latter, I don't see any reason to go to the 205.

The last problem on the 241 is the slip yoke, which is probably not really a problem if the driveline angles are good. Outside of that, a CV with the slip yoke eliminator can be done, but that costs probably ~$800 to do. Edit: The 205 (at least passenger drop/Chevy) was also found in slip yoke configurations, so you'd have to find the right 205 for fixed yoke as well.

 

[82355]

An NP241 out of a 1988 plus Chevy makes way more sense than spending big money to adapt an NP205.

Martin

 

[blazinzuk]

I agree a 241 makes more sense. Although with a sye you will be similar in cost to adapting the 205. But the 241 is a better case

 

[Greg Ducato]

I too am on the 241 Bandwagon, those things are cheap and plentiful for the drivers side drop.

 

[Larry]

Whoa, you cut up this clean survivor truck???





To build this???? I agree on going with a 241.

 

[SIK5]

Yup I'd get a rebuilt 208 or 241. You can have a built up 208 for a LOT less than the 205 swap. Dont forget to get the torque bar aka support rod brace that connects your 208 tcase to the bell housing. It's good insurance from what I have read! I might have saved your 208 from cracking in 3 places? How'd you do that?

Here is a link to the rod on Ebay I got...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/np-208-np-2...1&rkt=1&mehot=lo&sd=111725639292#ht_21wt_1363

 

[toomany]

Put me in the 241 camp. That's what I've got going into one of my trucks behind an Nv3500 with a high pinion Dana44 up front.

For as many as there are out there and as cheap as they are....can't go wrong with it.