new member. new jimmy.

[justin775]

hey everyone awesome forum been reading for like a week for hours on end. but i picked up a 86 jimmy with 12" lift 14bolt rear d44 front 39.5 swampers..... i have no 4wd of course. but i am looking to lower it i already got some 4" pro comp springs for the front and am just hoping to take out rear blocks and be straight but my steering is a mess and it is just stupid scary to drive down the road. also when i picked it up my front springs are just sitting on the frame!! springs to short for the front? im not sure but any insight on what i can do to get this thing trail worthy would be appreciated!!

 

[sweetk30]

12" lift = tall stiff front springs.

rear is 8" springs with block to get 12" total lift.

drop it with the 4" springs and just a drop pitman arm on the steering box and stock NON lift correction arm on the axle. or use stock pitman arm on steering box and RAISED lift arm on axle. this will help you a lot.

the rear will def be diffrent springs. but being a blazer its easy . all the 73-87 or 73-91 blazer used the 52" springs in the rear. so grab a set of stockers or 4" lift for the rear. if stock then do a 4-5" lift block to lift it. or best for ride and flex do a 4" flip kit.

if you plan on a flip kit then this will let you use 3/4 ton or 1 ton 56" rear springs by just fliping the flip kit brackets side to side. then you get a lot of flex.

the 39" tires will fit with 4" lift. but cut fenders to fit. lots of pics to see even in the sticky thread up top here in the garage full of tire size to lift size. but lots of hosted here pics you need to be a paid member to see.

also to help clear the tires in the front add a zero rate to the front and move the axle ahead 1" - 1.5" to get little more lift and huge tire to firewall clearence.

welcom to the site and good luck. i did the same years ago and i was hooked here for nice site no B/S to deal with and still here .

 

[justin775]

3 of the 12" is body lift and its already stock arm they did some serious wack job work and extended a tie rod 3 different times.... my buddy has a truck with same tires of me with just shackle lift and cut fendors i think it looks mean as hell going to try to go that route ill post pics of it as soon as i can not sure on how to do it honestly

 

[sweetk30]

o.k. then so its 8" lift or 10" lift then 3" body on top.

same basics i said before still work.

but if you need more info just ask.

 

[justin775]

here is some pics =D

 

[sweetk30]

scarry steering club member there on starter level.

yep stock pitman on the box. if you drop the lift to 4-5" just drop the crazy custom drag link and grab a bone stock unit /replacement and adjust to center your steering wheel and go. has nothing to do with tire alignment.

and the 10 bolt 3/4 ton front wont last long on 39" boggers if hard on it.

keep a eye out for a dana 60 front then be good to go.

nice rig tho.

 

[justin775]

do you think ill be able to slide my front drive line on dropping it that much? i have been staring at it since i got my springs and its going to be veeery close.

 

[sweetk30]

lots of guys still use stock front shaft on 4" lift. but the rear shaft in now might need shorten for the big drop in lift.

if you can post a good side shot pic of the tcase tail shaft were the drive shaft fits in. we can tell from that if its going to possibly work.

 

[justin775]

will do tomorrow its to dark now... the guy did have a drive shaft made and it looks like its already pretty far up the slip yoke... but i do have the stock driveline that came with it so hopefully i can work something out

 

[K85 Octane]

agree, you have some serious sh1t going on there

dump the steering linkage and spring, like you are planning, but I really wouldn't drive it the way it is now. I'd also take the steering box off and check the frame for cracks. With tires like that, if there is not bracing or welded plate, you are looking at problems in short order.

once the truck is at a REASONABLE height and proper steering angles are returned, you will be amazed how much turning radius and stability will return. I vote stock pitman arm and raised knuckle arm.

 

[72blazerguy]

springs to short for the front?

here is some pics =D

Wow, I bet that thing is a treat to ride in

Your stock rear drive shaft will have a different yoke. Best off to get the drive shaft that's in it now shortened (could run conversion u-joint with stock shaft). Is the rear a CV drive shaft? Bottom rear angle looks set up for it. If so, I would definitely get it shortened rather than run the stock rear w/ a conversion joint.

 

[jeff in co]

Wow, that's quite the setup! Glad you are trying to get it safer!

 

[justin775]

oh yea i had to drive it from somerset california to reno nv through the sierras... i had to check my pants every time another car came by but i thought it was a good deal for 1500 myself. whats weird is the guy had a insanely built old school fj done all nice it amazed me that the same guy did what he did to this blazer... but here is a pic of the yoke

 

[496truck]

Now take a pic of the axle end of that shaft...

 

[justin775]

sry

 

[496truck]

Looks like those angles don't match, I bet there is some d-shaft vibration from that.

 

[justin775]

didnt notice any but then again i have never got it over 45 or so... it is that bad driving it. also any tips on how to get a truck like this in the air? i have been hunting the streets of reno for scrap wood but i guess its hard to find. jacking it up is only thing stopping me now...

 

[sweetk30]

slips to far in also i think. = shaft to long.

 

[Fordum]

Man save those pics. When you get older you are going to look back and wonder why you are still here

I suspect with that steering arm, those tires and the other stuff on there, you were a lot less safe on that drive than you realized!

I wish I had pictures of some of the stuff I used to do.
Don't misunderstand, if the same occasion arose, I'd do them again. I'd just realize the odds this time around....

Take it slow, ask lots of questions, figure out exactly what you want the final product to be, and you have the makings of a nice vehicle.

 

[justin775]

well dropped the front axle today that was scarier than the actual drive i think.. i did the best i could with what i have. but as i was trying to remove the steering arm the ball joint started turning inside itself so i cant remove the nut... any tricks anyone can help me with? i tried jamming something inbetween the pitman arm and the rod to put pressure on it but i cant apply enough for it to come loose.