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NP205 Brake kit vs. Caddy Calipers

73k5blazer

73k5blazer

End the H1B Program!
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Anyone to comment on the holding power of one vs. the other? (i did do a search) I need to decide this weekend if I should order the NP205 kit, or the caddy calipers and custom e-brake cables. The NP205 kit will probabably edge out a bit cheaper, but I just want a setup that works. Anyone ever hook up both at the same time?
 
I would think that the 205 kit would hold better... while it only has 1 caliper compared to the two a rear disc setup would have, it also has the advantage of being in front of the rear axles gears, so its braking power is multiplied by the gear ratio. If you have low gears it should hold pretty well.

j
 
While I don't have the caddy calipers, I have the "Large GM" calipers that TSM sells - they have a cable mounted parking brake. The brake works OK when adjusted, but is definitely not what I would call strong. I would also mention that reconfiguring the stock cable system to work, and to work without causing drag during flexing, etc, has taken me a few hours of work. Those problems would be avoided with the TC brake.

Advantages? With extra ground clearance, less complicated setup, and less cost...I would probably go TC route next time. I do hear some people have clearance issues with the tub floor...
 
i got the 205 kit for the from HAD and i am copy machining the kit for my two other trucks, only i am machining the parts out of stainless and titamium. the caliper will be ti., the disc is 316 ss only cause i dont have ti plate, the pivot pin is ti., and the hub adapter will probably be made out of cromoly. why you ask......... because i can, i love being a machinist. :D
 
Can someone explain the 205 kit? Who makes it, etc? I'm guessing it's some kind of mechanical caliper that holds a rotor that is connected to the output shaft of the NP205. I'm contemplating getting disk brakes for the rear of my rig, but I'm torn as to which calipers I should go with. I want the braking power and the ease of maintainability of the GM truck calipers, but I would like to have the parking brake that the caddy calipers afford. If I could have both by going with the GM truck calipers for the rear of the truck and using some kind of NP205 parking brake, well that definitely seems the way to go.

ARAMP1
 
Nobody talks about a driveshaft drum brake anymore :confused: Most applications over 1-ton use them.

They have better static braking than a disc. It can't see it clogging up with mud to anywhere near the same degree as a drum brake at the wheel.
 
The only thing you have to remember about the 205 brake kit is that if you don't have a spool in the rear axle and it is flexed out, the truck will have the possibility to roll via the differential. It's not a BIG problem, and could be fixed by putting the truck in 4WD, if it isn't already, but it is a safety concern.

It is easier to use and, with the proper skidplate protection, would make for an extremely effective parking brake. I know I'd hate to strike a rock with the rotor and possibly break it, or even worse, the rear output shaft. :doah:

Cost of HAD kit vs. cost of Caddy calipers, they're about equal. You HAVE to buy HAD's output yoke, and I'm not sure if that would involve getting driveshaft work done. I haven't done that much research on it.
 
rdn2blazer said:
i got the 205 kit for the from HAD and i am copy machining the kit for my two other trucks, only i am machining the parts out of stainless and titamium. the caliper will be ti., the disc is 316 ss only cause i dont have ti plate, the pivot pin is ti., and the hub adapter will probably be made out of cromoly. why you ask......... because i can, i love being a machinist. :D
Click to expand...


I'm calling you when it's time to machine titanium portal housings for my Mog 404s!!!....

Why? Because YOU can! :pimp:
 
BigOrange90Jimmy said:
You HAVE to buy HAD's output yoke, and I'm not sure if that would involve getting driveshaft work done. I haven't done that much research on it.
Click to expand...

I would also be interested to know what all you have to get to make the driveline brake work. Is there a way to do it using your existing driveline, or do you have to replace it :confused:
 
I wrestled with the same dilemma. I ended up going with the large GM calipers from TSM. I then got custom cables made up by a co. called Custom Contol Cables down in SoCal. I just wasn't impressed by the quality of the "caliper" that went on the driveshaft. The disk looked good. The bracket looked good, but the caliper was hokey. I also had several people tell me that their holding ability was marginal. I had a hard time myself believing that this would hold my rig
8443TC_caliper_brake.jpg

as strong as two of these:
8443Large_GM_caliper.jpg

Having said that, I also solicited opinions here and found people who have them who recommended them. A big issue also was space and driveshaft length. The disk may sit high enough that you have clearance issues with the body. It also shortens just a small bit your driveshaft length increasing the angle. If you don't already have a steep angle, then no big deal. In my case, I'm already having to cut and re-weld the perches on my Corp14ff to correct the pinion angle. Since the rig is still in the backyard being finished, I can't say yet just how good the rear calipers will work. And yes, you pretty much have to modify your own driveline or buy one set up for it ala HAD. HAD's looks like this:

8443HAD_TC_brake.jpg
 
That looks more stout that the NP205 kit one. And only $30 plus 5 for the pucks.
That's a great find!
I ordered the cables for the caddy calipers, so I'll see how those hold. If I'm not satisfied, that go-kart caliper looks pretty good, still would need the special yoke and rotor from the kit, and youd have to fab your own bracket for that thing. Might be good though.
 
I wouldn't trust that any further than I could throw it, and with it only being a 6" rotor, I could chunk that pretty far.

It's not much bigger than the yoke it'd be bolted to. I don't believe you'd get the proper leverage on it. I'd be even more afraid of the rotor "tearing" with that much weight behind it. Ya gotta remember, it's a go-cart, not a 6,000 pound truck.
 
I realize were talking about alot of weight, but we're also talking holding the truck still, not about trying to stop it. I can roll the truck forward and back just by turning the driveshaft by hand, doesn't seem it would need much pressure to keep it from moving. Although my perspective is of a flat ground situation. I can't even remember the last time I had to use my e-brake. I never park on an incline here. Since I've sold my boat, I don't even use it at the launch. Granted this is probably less than acceptable, but I wouldn't think it would take much more to just keep the truck from moving.
 
Looks cool but thats like $370 for a parking/E-brake. And would then need to get shaft shortenned. I want one but thas alot of cash that could go to something else... like a front locker or... I stay away from hills without curbs and keep a "E-Brick" in the bed for just in case.
 
I gotta have an e-brake. One for safety, 2 for convience. I hate when I start my truck then I forgot something in the house, to have to shut it down, right after a cold start, to go in to get what I forgot. Or your on the trail and you want to hop out and check the next hole/obstacle, I wouldn't want to be shutting it down constantly. A reliable good E-Brake is a must, at any cost.
 
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