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Offset ball joints to fix caster..

I bet you can find just the lowers in that set of arms. Might have to call and confirm part numbers for ordering.
 
Mines got a 4.0, so I wonder if that makes a difference. :shrug:

Obijuan, should I look for johnny joints on both ends? The LCAs are pretty common with a JJ on one end and the standard rubber bushing on the other.

Edit: looks like I've got the repezza front shaft. And it's already got a tiny amount of misalignment that will be increased if I increase caster. So, choices...do i go back to exploring the offset ball joint angle? Or do I do adjustable LCAs and plan on a double cardan shaft in the future?
 
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Rubber on both ends would be great for a daily but if you have to get a jj just grease them periodically. No problems with a jj on a control arm. The small change that this adjustment is going to do to the pinion is not enough for me to worry but I always suggest throwing away those type of driveshafts. They have their limitations.
 
Ok. Then, for right now, the plan is gonna be adjustable LCAs, with a new double cardan DS in the back of my mind for the future.
 
mofugly13 said:
I have a 99 Jeep grand cherokee that I'm trying to get the caster into spec. I'm at 4.3 degrees and I should be at 6.75.

The fix is to use offset ball joints. But, there are both upper, and lower offset joints and I dont know if I need one, the other, or a combination of both. Just thinking about the geometry of it, it seems like there would be binding if replacing only one with an offset one.

Does anyone have any knowledge about offset ball joints and using them properly?
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2.5* of more positive caster makes a world of difference on road, look for other worn bushings, bent control arms. Bad ball joints, 4.3 isnt enough, offroad sure, on road no, jmo
 
DSRE388 said:
2.5* of more positive caster makes a world of difference on road, look for other worn bushings, bent control arms. Bad ball joints, 4.3 isnt enough, offroad sure, on road no, jmo
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You dont have caster cams on the lower control arms or are you maxed out? What the camber?
 
Caster cams? Enlighten me. If it's not a stock item then no. Camber is right where it should be, according to the printout I got from my last alignment. I'm ordering adjustable LCAs today.
 
obijuank5 said:
https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Pr...ocphy=9027973&hvtargid=pla-493289457025&psc=1


I suspect these are maxed out already bringing you to where you are now.
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yep these are often not in the axle unless someone has done a FULL alignment in the past .

if its a straight bolt then these with the stamped knock out section removed will get you some adjustment . those bolts can be had at say your local napa type parts stores i think more than autozone or advanced . i am sure they can order them but napa tends to stock or next day available the odd parts like these .
 
Interesting. I’ve got adjustable LCAs on the way, and a double cardan front driveshaft I decided to treat myself with for cyber Monday.
I’m still googling all about this and I keep seeing a common theme that the front pinion angle is more important than caster angle. Will I be alleviating this concern with a double cardan one end u joint other end driveshaft?
 
mofugly13 said:
Interesting. I’ve got adjustable LCAs on the way, and a double cardan front driveshaft I decided to treat myself with for cyber Monday.
I’m still googling all about this and I keep seeing a common theme that the front pinion angle is more important than caster angle. Will I be alleviating this concern with a double cardan one end u joint other end driveshaft?
Click to expand...
Yes.
Double cardan will solve your pinion angle concerns
 
Stupid question....which end do I put the double cardan side of the driveshaft? Xfer case side or pinion side?
 
That’s how I figured it. I just got to wondering because when I put the D70 rear on my K5 I put on a double cardan DS with the double at the transfer case, but I had angled the pinion up when I welded the perches so there was zero angle between the shaft and pinion.
 
mofugly13 said:
Interesting. I’ve got adjustable LCAs on the way, and a double cardan front driveshaft I decided to treat myself with for cyber Monday.
I’m still googling all about this and I keep seeing a common theme that the front pinion angle is more important than caster angle. Will I be alleviating this concern with a double cardan one end u joint other end driveshaft?
Click to expand...


What does the pinion angle look like now? People say the pinion angle is more important, because there is a fairly big range that caster will be OK but pretty narrow range pinion angle will be ok. Guess it depends on if your front driveshaft will be spinning highway speeds or if you use 4x on the highway.
 
Pinion right now is a degree or two out of alignment. I’m hearing here that the new DS will alleviate this concern, so I’m gonna go with that until I get it in and see if I have more problems, or less. I don’t use 4x on the highway, but the front DS still spins.
 
Update, I cured the DW. After I got caster to 6* with the adjustable LCAs I still had DW. So, then I swapped the steering box for a reman. Still DW. Next I replaced the track bar bushings with extra hard poly bushings, still DW, then got a road force alignment, still DW. Another professional alignment, still DW. Finally I bought a monotube steering stabilizer and put that on. DW cured.

Everyone says that a heavy duty steering stabilizer only masks the DW. Whatever. How can that be true? If I get no DW, then I have cured the DW. Anyhow. Thanks for all the help fellas.
 
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