I should check which ones I have, they might work for you. I took someone elses advice, and now I have a set with too small of a knurl for the hole I drilled.......
Martin
CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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I should check which ones I have, they might work for you. I took someone elses advice, and now I have a set with too small of a knurl for the hole I drilled.......
Martin
After reading the rest of the posts, it may be too late.
Martin
Martin
handloader90
Building!
Box of studs and bulge nuts came in today. Placed the order yesterday... it's nice being a state over from a Summit warehouse.
Going to the field tomorrow so nothing will be getting done for awhile.
Still waiting on some kind of response about the 14FF hub that I bought off of eBay yesterday. It's coming from a junkyard, pics looked good though.
Going to the field tomorrow so nothing will be getting done for awhile.
Still waiting on some kind of response about the 14FF hub that I bought off of eBay yesterday. It's coming from a junkyard, pics looked good though.
handloader90
Building!
A little side by side. Stock stud vs. Dorman 610-189. Stock stud underhead length is 2 3/4", 189 is 3". Not a huge difference but there'll be some thread sticking out once the lug nuts are tightened down vs. the lug nut being flush on the stud.
The bulge nuts are a little longer than the regular acorn nuts and if I use them they may turn out flush on the end of the studs when the wheels go on and everything is tightened down so those may be getting returned and I would just use the stock acorn nuts at that point.
The bulge nuts are a little longer than the regular acorn nuts and if I use them they may turn out flush on the end of the studs when the wheels go on and everything is tightened down so those may be getting returned and I would just use the stock acorn nuts at that point.
handloader90
Building!
Got the 14FF hub from eBay ago. Good hub, kinda crusty but nothing wrong with it. Pulled the old seal, then knocked the bearings and races out, cleaned everything up a little and reassembled it.
The new, longer studs that I got (Dorman 610-189) have a knurl diameter of .622, the stock ones (Dorman 610-188) have a knurl of .620.
Tried banging the studs in with my punch and sledge and that didn't really work too well. Local shops wanted $50 to install the studs via lug nut and impact... not happening .
Thanks to @Heavyleft we got the studs installed with his press.
Put everything back on the axle (fixed my backwards brake pad too) and everything is good to go, both hub assemblies rotate freely with the calipers and pads bolted up.
The new, longer studs that I got (Dorman 610-189) have a knurl diameter of .622, the stock ones (Dorman 610-188) have a knurl of .620.
Tried banging the studs in with my punch and sledge and that didn't really work too well. Local shops wanted $50 to install the studs via lug nut and impact... not happening .
Thanks to @Heavyleft we got the studs installed with his press.
Put everything back on the axle (fixed my backwards brake pad too) and everything is good to go, both hub assemblies rotate freely with the calipers and pads bolted up.
handloader90
Building!
Gonna be ordering some more parts soon but until then I have a small project that I can knock out.
Founds some sheet metal sitting around at work, looks like pieces from old shelving.
Making my firewall plates, It's gonna be a 2 or 3 piece design.
Gonna rivet it all onto the firewall once I'm finished cutting them out and smoothing the rough edges over.
Gonna use my flap wheel on the raised lip around the hole where the heater blower motor once was to get everything flush
Founds some sheet metal sitting around at work, looks like pieces from old shelving.
Making my firewall plates, It's gonna be a 2 or 3 piece design.
Gonna rivet it all onto the firewall once I'm finished cutting them out and smoothing the rough edges over.
Gonna use my flap wheel on the raised lip around the hole where the heater blower motor once was to get everything flush
I'm running rear dually studs on my front and rear axles. Plenty of threads with them.
handloader90
Building!
I was thinking about picking some of those up but the ones I have installed now leave enough thread showing for my comfort.
handloader90
Building!
Got 1 piece done, looks and fits pretty good.
Garage lighting isn't that great so that's gonna be it for tonight.
Garage lighting isn't that great so that's gonna be it for tonight.
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handloader90
Building!
Stuck it one with some magnets, needs a little more trimming.
I always use two flat washers and a regular nut to pull the studs through. Just put a little antisieze between the washers and hit it with the impact.
handloader90
Building!
It wasn't happening with these ones lol, that .002 extra on the knurl of these studs made a huge difference vs. the stock one in terms of getting them in there.
handloader90
Building!
Just a little trimming left to do.
handloader90
Building!
Just a pic of the truck. Looks a little tall... I think it's gonna be a little taller with the wheels/tires mounted, not sure how I feel about that.
Hoping these 35's will fill the wheel wells nicely and not look retarded.
Hoping these 35's will fill the wheel wells nicely and not look retarded.
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handloader90
Building!
Ordered all of the LS to SM465 clutch stuff this morning.
Just in case anyone plans on doing this in the future here is a parts list for making everything work together. Everything costs about $280ish. I believe all the parts are the same for a NV3500/4500 swap also, you just have to buy the clutch kit specific to the trans (which I'm thinking is about the same for all of the manual tranny's).
The Sachs flywheel was hard to come by... every store online was out of stock, ran the number through O'reillys and they stock the same flywheel under Power Torque NFW1050.
The clutch kit I found for cheap on rockauto, $90 + 5% discount. Pretty happy about that.
FLYWHEEL: SACHS NFW1050
CLUTCH KIT: EXEDY 04081
FLYWHEEL BOLTS: ARP 330-2802
P-PLATE BOLTS: ARP 134-2201
PILOT BEARING: GM 12557583
Next on the list:
Wheels
DIY4X Crossover Steering
Kingpin springs/bushings
Junkyard 2WD box
14FF newer style spindle nuts
Clutch fork/Pivot Ball
Clutch fork boot
Just in case anyone plans on doing this in the future here is a parts list for making everything work together. Everything costs about $280ish. I believe all the parts are the same for a NV3500/4500 swap also, you just have to buy the clutch kit specific to the trans (which I'm thinking is about the same for all of the manual tranny's).
The Sachs flywheel was hard to come by... every store online was out of stock, ran the number through O'reillys and they stock the same flywheel under Power Torque NFW1050.
The clutch kit I found for cheap on rockauto, $90 + 5% discount. Pretty happy about that.
FLYWHEEL: SACHS NFW1050
CLUTCH KIT: EXEDY 04081
FLYWHEEL BOLTS: ARP 330-2802
P-PLATE BOLTS: ARP 134-2201
PILOT BEARING: GM 12557583
Next on the list:
Wheels
DIY4X Crossover Steering
Kingpin springs/bushings
Junkyard 2WD box
14FF newer style spindle nuts
Clutch fork/Pivot Ball
Clutch fork boot
Nice progress!
handloader90
Building!
Thanks man, have to get it moving under it's own power in the next few months, hopefully things will pick up soon.
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handloader90
Building!
Just an FYI the Dorman 610-189 wheel studs for the 14FF have the exact amount of length as the stock SRW Dana 60 studs after being installed in the hubs... they may well be 60 studs... idk.
Stickout is 1 1/8" on the 60 and 14FF.
Stickout is 1 1/8" on the 60 and 14FF.
Dude I'm glad I found this build. an lq4 swap might be in my future with keeping the 465.
handloader90
Building!
Just an FYI the crankshaft was different in the older 6.0's... Idk what year GM switched things up but the crankshaft spacing is different and idk what the parts recipe is for one of those engines but it is different.
