150 ft lbs is not enough torque on those. Maybe you know that....
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
- Start date
-
- Tags
- smashed a$$
handloader90
Building!
Got her put back together. Looks pretty level front to rear.
Wheelbase is 128.5"
Shackle angle look too steep? Would dropping down to a 4" shackle bring it more vertical? Has 6" shackle on it now.
Wheelbase is 128.5"
Shackle angle look too steep? Would dropping down to a 4" shackle bring it more vertical? Has 6" shackle on it now.
Pretty sure 150 is correct for grade 8 5/8" ubolts. Yep several sites say 132-177 for grade 8. I always go 150.
handloader90
Building!
Angle looks good. Wait til you get weight on it to worry about it.
handloader90
Building!
That's what I've always done. I believe I got that number from some stuff that ORD sent me back in '13 when I first got into these trucks. Bought a whole lift kit from them for my long gone '76 SWB. Been doing 150 lbs. since then.
handloader90
Building!
Thanks. I know the weight is gonna change things. Hopefully I can correct angle via shackle but If I have to reshackle flip it I will.
That's what I read too, then I had them come loose.
I give them hell with an impact and give them more with a large breaker bar. Ruffstuff bolts, nuts and plates.....
handloader90
Building!
I haven't had any issues in the past but I'll keep an eye on em. Having no bed makes it easy to check on them lol.
I have Ruffstuff plates, ORD bolts/nuts.
Did you open the center pin hole on your Ruffstuff plates up? The holes in mine were 9/16" and I had to open them up to 3/4" to clear the center pin nut.
no, I just run the bolt through to the top of the springplate.
here's a read about u-bolts from a couple years ago https://ck5.com/forums/threads/check-your-u-bolts.316885/
handloader90
Building!
Drive shaft is a few inches long now. Thinking about cutting it down myself with the sawzall then taking it to a driveline shop to have it welded back together and balanced.
Guessing it can't cost too much if I go that route.
Guessing it can't cost too much if I go that route.
let them cut it down correctly otherwise they'll be charging you more. It cost me $100 to cut down my last shaft and re-balance it.
handloader90
Building!
Is there a special method they use to cut it?
handloader90
Building!
Just looked through that thread. That f**kin blows... I'll keep an eye on mine for sure.
correct and where to cut it. Give them a call and get the measurements they want.
Bottom line, keep an eye on them. On my shakedown run a couple weeks ago I checked mine a couple times.
Typically fine thread goes to a higher torque value, around 150 -160 is good for coarse thread, somewhere around 180 is standard for 5/8 fine. Either way as long as you are keeping an eye on them, and like you said it is a lot easier to check with no bed on the truck.
handloader90
Building!
Today's spur of the moment project.
handloader90
Building!
I need to order a rag joint for a 2wd box, the one off of my 4wd box measures around .75", the 2wd input shaft measures around .50".
I need to order the brace that connects the core support to the balance too.
I need to order the brace that connects the core support to the balance too.
handloader90
Building!
Are all of the steering column ends on our truck the same? The part where the steering shaft bolts up?
If so I'll be using a Chevy Express shaft like I did on the K5 way earlier in this thread.
