Dang it. I read that, the one I'm getting is a 99 and I'm pretty sure it is different. it'll still be sweet to see how it goes for you. are you keeping a mechanical linkage or going hydrolic
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
- Start date
-
- Tags
- smashed a$$
handloader90
Building!
I'm sure there's a way to get it to work.
And I'll be sticking with the mechanical linkage for now, hopefully it all clears with the stock exhaust manifolds in there... that's my only big concern.
And I'll be sticking with the mechanical linkage for now, hopefully it all clears with the stock exhaust manifolds in there... that's my only big concern.
handloader90
Building!
Flywheel came today, looks good to me.
Thought I had some more funds coming my way this month but I was wrong... not until next month so I'll be missing out on the Black Friday sales from DIY4X and ORD, kinda sucks cause I was planning on picking up my wheels, crossover steering from DIY4X and some axle stuff from ORD.
Thought I had some more funds coming my way this month but I was wrong... not until next month so I'll be missing out on the Black Friday sales from DIY4X and ORD, kinda sucks cause I was planning on picking up my wheels, crossover steering from DIY4X and some axle stuff from ORD.
handloader90
Building!
Clutch to flywheel bolts
Flywheel to crank bolts
Pilot Bushing
Clutch kit should be here tomorrow or the next day.
Flywheel to crank bolts
Pilot Bushing
Clutch kit should be here tomorrow or the next day.
handloader90
Building!
Clutch kit came in today.
handloader90
Building!
Cleaned out the back of the blazer and put the rear seat back in yesterday.
Pulled the ammo can speakers that sat on top of the rear wheel wells and all of the wiring that went with them.
Painted one of my fenders back to flat black and put some CK5 stickers on.
Cleaned up the LS a little bit, mainly the heads where the intake sits, the valley cover and just some general cleaning like knocking dirt off.
Seperated the wiring harness from the intake, I'm thinking of sending the harness and computer off to @Team208Motorsports to have them make it a standalone harness and to tune the computer... I really dont feel like messing with the harness and possibly screwing something up.
Got the flex fuel 5.3 intake just sitting on the engine.
I think I'm going to drill the one hole needed to completely bolt up the TNA engine cross member tomorrow, then pull the cross member and shoot some paint on it.
I'm gonna be dropping the 4 speed and t-case to, I plan on putting the engine and transmission into the truck with them already being bolted together, seems better that way.
Pulled the ammo can speakers that sat on top of the rear wheel wells and all of the wiring that went with them.
Painted one of my fenders back to flat black and put some CK5 stickers on.
Cleaned up the LS a little bit, mainly the heads where the intake sits, the valley cover and just some general cleaning like knocking dirt off.
Seperated the wiring harness from the intake, I'm thinking of sending the harness and computer off to @Team208Motorsports to have them make it a standalone harness and to tune the computer... I really dont feel like messing with the harness and possibly screwing something up.
Got the flex fuel 5.3 intake just sitting on the engine.
I think I'm going to drill the one hole needed to completely bolt up the TNA engine cross member tomorrow, then pull the cross member and shoot some paint on it.
I'm gonna be dropping the 4 speed and t-case to, I plan on putting the engine and transmission into the truck with them already being bolted together, seems better that way.
handloader90
Building!
I pulled the water pump today. I noticed that when I would spin the fan on the water pump that is didn't spin straight, it looked wobbly when it was spinning. The truck that this engine came out of was in a collision so I'm guessing that the shaft that the fan and fan clutch is attached to got bent when that happened, instead of paying attention to the fan I looked at the water pump pulley when I span it around and it looked funny too.
I'm glad I pulled the water pump cause there was some acorns in the water pump and the upper hole on the driver side of the engine... I don't know if some douchebag put some acorns in this guys radiator or what but it doesn't look like they made it past the water pump cause they were all sitting in that little pocket right there... weird stuff.
I'm glad I pulled the water pump cause there was some acorns in the water pump and the upper hole on the driver side of the engine... I don't know if some douchebag put some acorns in this guys radiator or what but it doesn't look like they made it past the water pump cause they were all sitting in that little pocket right there... weird stuff.
60s or 81s?
handloader90
Building!
The cans? They were 5.56 cans I think.
I have a mortar can in the garage, I think it's a 60.
Have two or three 40mm cans too.
I have a mortar can in the garage, I think it's a 60.
Have two or three 40mm cans too.
Naw...hanging from your rearview mirror....lol
handloader90
Building!
81's.
Little tip for your LS. Before you stuff it in, pull the intake back off and change out your Knock sensors, the wiring harness to them with the rubber plugs they go through. Given the general crustiness your engine started out like I'd bet the rubber plugs in there now are ROCK hard. Pull them out and take a gander down the hole. Chances are your knock sensors are crusty. Do it now while it's easy to get to.
When you do put the new sensors in, there's an extra step for sealing the plugs in so no more water gets down in the holes. Install the plugs and run a bead of sealer around the edge of the plugs and at the spot where the wire goes through each plug.
It's not hard to do in the truck, but chasing the knock sensor problem when they rot out is a pain. The you have to pull the intake which means disconnecting fuel lines, electrical and doing this all while leaning over the core support or fender.
If I remember right, the harness part number includes the plugs.
When you do put the new sensors in, there's an extra step for sealing the plugs in so no more water gets down in the holes. Install the plugs and run a bead of sealer around the edge of the plugs and at the spot where the wire goes through each plug.
It's not hard to do in the truck, but chasing the knock sensor problem when they rot out is a pain. The you have to pull the intake which means disconnecting fuel lines, electrical and doing this all while leaning over the core support or fender.
If I remember right, the harness part number includes the plugs.
handloader90
Building!
Thanks for the advice! I'll get those knocked out, have to find a P/N for the new stuff first though. Any other little things I should do while the engine is out?
Harness, 12601822. Knock Sensor 12589867. You need two of the knock sensor. No problem on the advice. I hate to see somebody have to do it later when it's this easy now.
Only other thing I'd look at is the rear main seal now. If it's dry I'd leave it alone, but if not now is the time.
Only other thing I'd look at is the rear main seal now. If it's dry I'd leave it alone, but if not now is the time.
handloader90
Building!
Thanks for the part numbers, I read somewhere about the front and rear knock sensors possibly being different, they are the same correct?
There is zero fluid residue anywhere on the engine (which I was pretty happy about). I'm gonna go ahead and assume that the LS rear main seal is a 1 piece design and I would have to remove the rear cap to put a new one on?
They only list one part number for it in the GM parts catalog.
The rear main seal is one piece. It does not require the rear cap to come off to replace. We typically end up replacing the housing and seal together at the shop. We do this at the shop because most of the time it's the rtv seal on the housing that has been more prone to leaking. Usually end up with a gap in the sealant that caused the leak. If yours is dry, leave it be.
The rear main seal is one piece. It does not require the rear cap to come off to replace. We typically end up replacing the housing and seal together at the shop. We do this at the shop because most of the time it's the rtv seal on the housing that has been more prone to leaking. Usually end up with a gap in the sealant that caused the leak. If yours is dry, leave it be.
handloader90
Building!
Got the 14FF yoke guard on today... used too long of bolts the first go around, got lucky and only had one shear off.
Don't use 2" bolts. Went and got some 1 3/4" bolts, used a flat washer and lock washer and everything was good.
Don't use 2" bolts. Went and got some 1 3/4" bolts, used a flat washer and lock washer and everything was good.
handloader90
Building!
Messed around with the clutch parts.
There are two dowel pins in the LS flywheel that have to be punchef out before you can set the pressure plate onto the flywheel.
The holes that you bolt the pressure plate up to the flywheel are not large enough to let a 10mm bolt pass through. The next closest size drill bit that I have is 7/16, I don't have metric bits. I opened up all six holes on the pressure plate to 7/16 with my drill press. My 7/16 bit is kind of dull and my cheap drill press probably has a decent amount of runout... cleaned the holes up with a stone bit on my dremel and ran some 80 grip sand paper over them to smooth things out. There's just a hair of play with a 10mm bolt and 7/16" hole, not enough to be worried about. I'll make sure everything is centered when I get it all together.
The clutch disc is kind of small looking on the flywheel, the thread I read where a guy used these exact same parts said he had them installed and frequently towed a trailer with 7k lbs. and had zero issues with the setup so I'm not too worried about it.
The ARP bolts that I used to bolt the pressure plate the the flywheel are kind of shallow, there is plenty of bolt in that hole but if I were to do it again I have bought longer bolts, I'll put some blue loctite on for reassurance .
There are two dowel pins in the LS flywheel that have to be punchef out before you can set the pressure plate onto the flywheel.
The holes that you bolt the pressure plate up to the flywheel are not large enough to let a 10mm bolt pass through. The next closest size drill bit that I have is 7/16, I don't have metric bits. I opened up all six holes on the pressure plate to 7/16 with my drill press. My 7/16 bit is kind of dull and my cheap drill press probably has a decent amount of runout... cleaned the holes up with a stone bit on my dremel and ran some 80 grip sand paper over them to smooth things out. There's just a hair of play with a 10mm bolt and 7/16" hole, not enough to be worried about. I'll make sure everything is centered when I get it all together.
The clutch disc is kind of small looking on the flywheel, the thread I read where a guy used these exact same parts said he had them installed and frequently towed a trailer with 7k lbs. and had zero issues with the setup so I'm not too worried about it.
The ARP bolts that I used to bolt the pressure plate the the flywheel are kind of shallow, there is plenty of bolt in that hole but if I were to do it again I have bought longer bolts, I'll put some blue loctite on for reassurance .
handloader90
Building!
Took the steering box and steering shaft off today.
Cleaned up the frame where the steering box was mounted and there are a few small cracks, nothing significant. I'm going to drill the ends of the cracks out and cut into the cracks themselves before welding them up.
Ordered a weld-in frame repair kit and bolt-on steering box brace from ORD today as a preventative measure.
I also ordered the crossover steering kit from DIY4X, no hi-steer just regular crossover.
Cleaned up the frame where the steering box was mounted and there are a few small cracks, nothing significant. I'm going to drill the ends of the cracks out and cut into the cracks themselves before welding them up.
Ordered a weld-in frame repair kit and bolt-on steering box brace from ORD today as a preventative measure.
I also ordered the crossover steering kit from DIY4X, no hi-steer just regular crossover.
handloader90
Building!
Got a package in the mail today.
I ordered some used spindle nuts off of eBay, they came off of an '05 Dodge AAM 11.5 axle.
I went out into the garage to make sure they fit on the 14FF and they do!
Cost me $20 even shipped, way better than $35 per side new.
Pretty happy about that.
I ordered some used spindle nuts off of eBay, they came off of an '05 Dodge AAM 11.5 axle.
I went out into the garage to make sure they fit on the 14FF and they do!
Cost me $20 even shipped, way better than $35 per side new.
Pretty happy about that.
