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Old Iron 2.0

Overview Gallery Discussion
handloader90 said:
For whatever reason I thought you were running 47" ORD/Alcans up front. At some poo t is that what you had up front?
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Never have had custom springs. Misc 52 combination really and wasn't ever really happy with em. Went back to 47s a long time ago for the approach angle mostly but it has not really changed how it wheels. First were tuff country light duty which a quickly flattened. Then when I got 44s I got new 6" procomp springs. One version of those off the shelf. Even have the 6" front prorunner shocks. Standard shit. I do have the front eye directly under the body mount bolt and my shackle hanger moved forward for traditional 52 fitment. My shackles are superduty carrier bearing shims with 6" bolt spread I think.
Only real pic I got. I could use longer shocks but I bump it for front fender clearance. Keep the trim tidy.

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handloader90 said:
Are they a softer spring like the Tuff Country ones? Do they have different soring rates available or just whatever they keep on the shelf?

Have a P/N and price for the springs?

I've looked at BDS too, I've heard good things about them? Thoughts?
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Tuff country ez rides have a soft spring rate but compared to procomp I'm not sure. I'd have to crack open the catalog at work and see the differences and the part number.

Bds is great stuff but I have to special order it and it's more expensive. Never wheeled a set either. Procomp is 120 bucks retail. Hard to beat.
 
The angle gets nasty on the droop. We ran 57ish in Dakota springs in an S10 LS swap and have broken every u joint in the front. Needs limits for sure or a larger shim. But it's already got a monster shim in it and we tried our best to do the spring mounts in castor helping spots. Cut both frame rails in half and plated them then welded shackle mounts at the very top. Can't see but the lower third of the shackle at ride height. Still big shim.
 
obijuank5 said:
Tuff country ez rides have a soft spring rate but compared to procomp I'm not sure. I'd have to crack open the catalog at work and see the differences and the part number.

Bds is great stuff but I have to special order it and it's more expensive. Never wheeled a set either. Procomp is 120 bucks retail. Hard to beat.
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$120 per spring?!
 
Ive got some 4" lift front procomp springs I recently bought used. I got both for $90 plus some 4" blocks. They seem like good springs. 5 leaves per pack I think and the second leaf comes under the front eye and wraps up just a little. Not a military wrap just extra support under it. They seem to ride decent and flex good so far. Ive heard really good about BDS also.
 
Truckman4life said:
Ive got some 4" lift front procomp springs I recently bought used. I got both for $90 plus some 4" blocks. They seem like good springs. 5 leaves per pack I think and the second leaf comes under the front eye and wraps up just a little. Not a military wrap just extra support under it. They seem to ride decent and flex good so far. Ive heard really good about BDS also.
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Good price.

Is be willing to pay $120 each for some springs especially if they have a nice warranty on them.
 
The springs I run are 11411for 4 inch and 11511 for 6 inch. The 6 inch are the ones on the blazer in the video at 589 lbs/inch and the 4 inch springs are 550 lbs/inch. There are plenty in the Denver warehouse so I'm sure they are next day there from 4wp. 124.99 a spring.you can buy a 3 year warranty on the springs for 12.49 a spring which will cover you breaking it in half even. Called the extreme warranty whereas the other warranty is the procomp promise.
 
obijuank5 said:
The springs I run are 11411for 4 inch and 11511 for 6 inch. The 6 inch are the ones on the blazer in the video at 589 lbs/inch and the 4 inch springs are 550 lbs/inch. There are plenty in the Denver warehouse so I'm sure they are next day there from 4wp. 124.99 a spring.you can buy a 3 year warranty on the springs for 12.49 a spring which will cover you breaking it in half even. Called the extreme warranty whereas the other warranty is the procomp promise.
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Thanks brother!
 
70jimmy said:
When you said on the spring hanger, I was thinking Hmm so they will move as the shackle moves? I need more coffee.
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The lights would be stationary but they would look pretty stupid and eventually would probably get broken sticking that far out.
 
So a few weeks ago when I moved the spring hangers up for the longer springs I had to it out the old x-member that runs between the frame rails and is riveted to the spring hangers. It was in worse shape than the original spring hangers were, not salvageable by any means.

I took measurements and had some 1/4" plate cut to size. 20.75"x5.75". These plates will sit in the frame rails and be bolted on using 7 bolts, 4 7/16" bolts holding the the spring hanger to the web of the frame rail in addition to the 3 holes left-over from the old spring hanger location.

The a rear where the old spring hangers and x-member where riveted on have some damage from the rust, nothing bad but I plan to stiffen up this area also.

I want to run two pieces of 2" or 2.5" tube or pipe in the middle of the frame rails centered to where the current spring hanger is bolted on and also where the old one was attached.

I'm thinking that if use a hole saw in the steel plate and the frame rails and run the tube/pipe all the way through (protruding from the web of the frame rails on the outer side) that I would have a stronger x-member vs. Just welding the tube to the steel plate.

Doing it that way also eliminates the need for tube couplers, I can just slide the tube through and weld it in.

This may double as the platform where I mount the fuel cell to.

I plan on this being permanently affixed to the truck.

Thoughts?

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Sounds helpful but I think you will create a stress area at the four corners of the new plate. I am not sure how to suggest fixing that unless you box it entirely.
 
obijuank5 said:
Sounds helpful but I think you will create a stress area at the four corners of the new plate. I am not sure how to suggest fixing that unless you box it entirely.
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Even with the plate being bolted in and not welded? The plate will sit flush against the web on the inside of the c channel.

Could it be any worse that the stock x-member that was riveted in? The stock one was riveted to the top and bottom flange of the frame rails. The lower portion of the x-member was tied into the bottom of the spring hanger with the bottom frame rail flange sandwiched in between the two. The stock x-member did not touch the web of the frame rail at all.
 
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