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Ole' Red. Slow n steady

All the pads and the shoes I seen were good.
And surprisingly the drum came off without much persuasion. So that's a plus.

Another thing I found odd, is the slot for the adjuster still had the metal punch out in it...
It's never been knocked out to adjust them
 
shady said:
Usually I pump up the pressure bleeder and just crack a bleeder until clear chit comes out, and move to the next.
Or if I dont have a master cap that works for the pressure unit on that car, I'll use the catch jar and hose, grease the bleeder, and pump the pedal a bunch, fill reservoir, pump some more, etc till clean, and repeat.

What I was doing earlier, was just trying to get fluid to each corner, so I could begin that process.

I'm going to pick up some lines and just run new on the axle. Going to do it eventually anyway. Might as well just do it.
Probably go ahead and swap the other wheel cylinder for the fork of it while I'm at it.
Click to expand...
Good plan.
 
The one wheel cylinder was plugged up.
Still changed the lines on the rear axle for the fug of it. One was too short so it got crappy temp run.
Still has an issue in my opinion though.

I got fluid out of every bleeder. Many, many bubbles. Lol.
But..... When I push the pedal back and forth I can see fluid moving forward and back in the bleeder tube. But with a bleeder ANYWHERE open, it should drop the pedal to the floor.
Plus, pushing the pedal should shoot fluid through.
Has on everything else I've ever bled:dunno:

With either rear bleeder open the fluid moves but moves SLOW. And the pedal gets pretty hard about half way through.
Open a front, straight to the floor.

I'll see how it actually acts on the road I guess.


Transmission filter is changed. But I may have messed up and over filled..?
I read 4 posts in random forums about how to refill after a filter swap in a th350, and every one of them said start with 4 quarts, and add from there.

I only drained 3 out, but didn't realize that until I was done and putting the old in the new jug. It was full before I drove the 1.5 mile to the shop.
I'll see when I can run it tomorrow I guess.

Oil fluid and filter changed too.

All shocks done, so it's pretty much ready for a test drive. Only thing I have to do is tie the muffler away from the driveshaft.
New muffler will be here Thursday, and I'll fix the pipe then.

I have new spark plug wires, but I'm going to wait a pay check and get plugs and a cap set while I'm at it.
 
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Drove it today:waytogo:

Weird intermittent knocky sound (collapsed lifter:dunno:) went away, oil has 35 ish psi at low idle, shifts good, alt is working, temp stayed reasonable for the while I had it idling and the quick ride, and olds 350's have some torque. Lol

I have some chit going on before work today... But I think after the muffler is done tomorrow, it's time for a ride through the park:thumb:



I need to find one of these, that isn't broken and isn't $1000.
I found a used one that's pitted and ratty for $300. But I'm not doing that.

Maybe I should spring for the dual gate.:thinking:

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So.... I didn't do the muffler yet, but drove it anyway.
It still obviously needs all the bushing and such. But it drives decent enough. Starts and runs great. Shifts good. Etc.

Park drive went well:thumb:

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At initial start, it sounded great, had good oil pressure, and we headed out.

As it warmed up, things changed :notworthy:
It started making the knocky/tinky sound again. But at first it was only in no load moments.
Then it would come and go randomly and was louder.
By the time we got it back to the shop it was hot and miss but louder. So I figured I'd do a burnout as it would probably be parked again until it's rebuilt. :dunno:
At least if it blew up here it's literally a block from my shop on a seldom used road.

Some how didn't sound as bad during the burnout. And my wife thought the tire smoke was nasty lol.

This is only about 1-2 minutes before the last vid above.

Posi marks near the one legger are from my burbs random struggles to do one lol

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In the vid where it's idling in my shop, at 22 sec you can see the oil pressure tube is just mostly air, and the little bit of oil in there is pulsing slightly back and forth.
The gauge is at zero at that moment.
I bled the gauge line yesterday until I had nearly 1/4" of oil in a large jar with no air coming out for a while.

Back to full of air today.
I'm not sure how the oil pickup tube attaches or seals to the pump. Or how the pump seals to the block. But I'm wondering if it's getting air the pickup some how..?

Guess I'm not cruising it this year, and I need to just start on the burb refurb.

Damnit.
 
I'm actually hoping it's something stupid like a loose torque converter, or cracked flex plate, etc.
The oil pressure gauge thing is my killer though.

I bled the line well. There shouldn't be air in it again.
But maybe it's draining back, and I'm getting air that way when it's off...?
Oddest part is how would the oil that's in low spots and all the way under the dash drain back, unless there's a break in the line or hole in the gauge.
Kind of like corking a straw and the liquid stays in.
Even if I had no pressure, I'd think the oil should stay in that line
 
Poor car. First time it's been rained on in at least 30 years.
I backed it out to clean the gas off the shop floor.
And hopefully let more of the gas drain out.

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We're know and of kicking ideas around about what to do.

I've debated

1. Pull the engine out over a long weekend, do a tear down, clean up, hone, replace bearings, rings, oil pump/pickup, lifters, and new gaskets. Then throw it back in until a later date. Probably get a few years at least out of it that way, As little as it'll get driven. So we can save for a proper rebuild.

Or
2. Garage it, and let it sit for another year, before we can properly rebuild it with machine work and pistons and all that. Still doing the frame stuff this winter.


I kinda want to do route #1.
Kaz and Chrissie were really hoping to get dropped off, and picked back up in front of the school on first day back this year in it. Haven't even told Kaz we can't yet.
I can do that route for around $600-700.
Real rebuild like I want will be more like $4k all in.
I got about 7 weeks before school starts.
 
Ole red is gonna sit again for a bit :notworthy:

We tried. But I can't see pulling the engine, quick building it, then pulling the tank and fixing lines.... Just to tear the car back apart in a few months and do things different. I do too much of that lol.

So, I'm going to mothball it again (not literally), and wait.
My plan is to clean up my K30 some and sell it.
Then use all the cash to build the chassis and engine for this. Won't get enough for wheels and tires too, so I'll have to save or peace meal those.

We just don't use the K30, don't plan on moving to a place we can, and I'm too old/broken to be trying to do trail fixes or even change a 150# tire if I need to.
Let alone trying to dig out or get unstuck.

So I'll focus on this and the burb and regrettably down size my flock.

Know any body looking for a CC K30 on 40's with a winch and BUILT front/back receivers for it, let me know lol.
 
Nice Olds!

My grandpa had one when I was a kid. Liked them ever since. Good friend of mine was an olds fan. He had a few of them. The 425 and 455 olds engines were great. Not much needed to have a good time.

You’re lucky to get a hold of that one!
 
I would LOVE a 425 or 455.

The 350 in stock 2bl form seems to be alright.

Think when I build it I'm going to bore it like .030"-.040", cam it as big as I can go with only like a 2200ish stall, and put a 4bl on it. And leave it at that.
 
I have the burb for my powerhouse. If I ever decide to make this a canyon carver it'll get the LS and the burb with get the big block I have waiting on a stand.

Come to think of it, :thinking: I need to run the oil pressure tank on the big block and turn it over a few times.
 
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