on my knees, starter troubles

[AussieK5]

This will be staight forward stuff for somone, I've got a starter/ign prob (would tear the whole thing apart, but had a shoulder reconstruction on Tue). When I try to crank all I get is a sound like the solenoid is engaging/disengaging real fast, this happened last week and I replaced it with a spare new one. It happened again the next day but cranked on the 2nd or 3rd go, since then no probs, now all I get is this clicking sound. Its a 73 350, all the connections are tight and clean, (did it last week), as far as I can tell there is no relay in my system either. Any thoughts-Thanks in advance.

 

[thatK30guy]

Whatever you decide to do, as far as buying another starter, get a new one or a lifetime warranty starter.

I had some trouble on my '85 K30, which I've had for 5 years now. In those 5 years, I have replaced 5 starters.

My problem was shimming the damn thing. And the fact I was buying the 'el cheapo' starters. Even one new one I got lasted me one day!!!

I finally got fed up and bought a lifetime starter and it's still in the truck today. No more grinding or shims. No complaints either.

So, get a brand new one or a lifetime starter and you should have no troubles for a while.

<font color=blue>"Ya don't have to beat it, ya know!!!</font color=blue>

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[Pugsley]

Sounds like either a bad battery or cables, probably the cables. Try running a jumper cable from the battery to the solenoid and see what happens. Also try running another from the negative post of the battery to the frame.

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[4GUNZ4X4Z]

If you know your battery and starter are good then I'd run down the cables and make sure they are in good shape.

I've had the same problem all week. I went thru to batterys, tested the starter and tested the alternator to make sure they were good. Since I had the alt and starter out I yanked out the cables and found that my cable to starter from the battery (and a couple of other wires) was burning on my exhast manifold and grounding out causing one hell of a headache.

<font color=blue>Professional <font color=red>JEEP EATER</font color=red> it's a population control thing.</font color=blue>

 

[AussieK5]

When I read your post I thought yeah yeah its all good, then I thought, no no go and check again. Guess what earth prob. A big thanks for smacking me in the face with the obvious. I found it hard to believe any compnents would be at fault, new batt 700cca, leads as thick as my thumb, starter that cranks as quiet as a mouse w/o shims, so it had to be down to who was doing the spanner work, I didn't crank down the '-' post nut, finger tight only. A little to self sure me thinks.

 

[Pugsley]

Don't feel bad

! I replaced my battery a couple of weeks ago, got in the truck, hit the key and nothing. After throwing a fit, and throwing the hood open - some idiot neglected to put the cables on

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[**DONOTDELETE**]

hey, on one of my 350 blocks, i couldn't seem to shim it so that it wouldn't bust the nose off the starter, i went through about 4 of 'em, and i think the problem was compounded by a bad flywheel after all that.....

what's the deal on the cheapies, are the bodies not correctly macined to the proper tolerances or something??

rgrgegre...... greg

 

[dyeager535]

I don't think thats the case. AFAIK, all the starters you are buying are using GM nose cones, which will set your starter gear/flywheel distance. Gm did make cast iron nose cones, but then your block would probably bust : )

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
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