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One Ton Axles on CL

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bigmike585

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I have been sort of looking for some heavier axles with 4.10's or 4.56's. I have done lots of looking on this website and found out lots of good info about axles, gears, etc. I dont really have a mechanics background, just been kinda figuring it out as I go. I saw this on craigslist and wondered what you guys would think of these axles.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/2942964437.html

Is there anyway to really inspect the axles for quality? Any signs to look for? I know you have to open em up and actually look at the gears but was wondering if there is anything else y'all look for in an axle.

Here's my rig http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286316
 
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Not a lot you can check but if you able to see them out of the vehicle I would check them over for any obvious signs of damage or repair. Maybe see if you can look inside as well. He has something about "mudbog" for keywords on the ad. I would want to make sure there wasn't any damage inside. $1k is probably an average for them with no lockers or upgrades. He said OBO so you may be able to talk him down a bit
 
Grab the rotor and use some muscle to check for any movement in the wheel bearings and the kingpin/trunnion bearing. Search around here and read threads on how to 100% make sure it's a Dana 60 and not an 8 lug Dana 44 or 10 bolt (the kingpins are a dead giveaway). You can feel the backlash by rotating the pinion, and the pinion bearing should have no thrust movement. Pull the covers and look for obvious things like broken stuff, mud, etc. You can also check the ujoints fairly easily with a prying device in the yokes. you shouldn't get any movement between the two yokes either by rotating, or trying to pry one yoke up from the other.

The 14 bolt you can easily check the wheel bearings by grabbing the drum, and the pinion bearing by pushing/pulling it from the housing. You can get a feel for backlash the same way as any other axle. The carrier covers the spider gears, but you can still look at the ring gear (not so much the pinion). If you search here, you'll find lots of info on how to identify if it's a G80 locker versus an open diff. The open diff is stronger and more desirable than the G80 BTW, so don't fall for that (lots of clueless sellers will say, "That's a posi so it's worth more").

I paid $1000 for a 60/14b with 4.10s that needed some new wear items in the 60. I felt that was fair enough for the time and place. The guy helped me load them in my truck and threw in a few junk parts I could use.
 
Ok, so, when looking for a Dana 60, I need to make sure it's for GM vehicles, correct? (dumb question proly) Looks like they have Dana 60 off of Dodge and Ford as well, these will not work I gather. Also I know my stock front axle has the diff on the passenger side, not sure if Dana makes an axle for GM trucks that has a diff on the driver side, but I need to make sure it's on the pass side. Do people typically sell these axles with brakes/rotors intact? Another dumb question, will I be able to bolt these axles up to my springs using the spring perches as is on the axle? Or will mods have to be made?
 
Price depends on what someone will pay in any given area. I recently saw a set with 4:10's locally for $650. If he really "must sell", offer half in cash and meet him halfway when he counters. Above info on checkig them is good.
 
bigmike585 said:
Ok, so, when looking for a Dana 60, I need to make sure it's for GM vehicles, correct? (dumb question proly) Looks like they have Dana 60 off of Dodge and Ford as well, these will not work I gather. Also I know my stock front axle has the diff on the passenger side, not sure if Dana makes an axle for GM trucks that has a diff on the driver side, but I need to make sure it's on the pass side. Do people typically sell these axles with brakes/rotors intact? Another dumb question, will I be able to bolt these axles up to my springs using the spring perches as is on the axle? Or will mods have to be made?
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He already said it's a GM axle king pin D60, you just need to confirm that and OWENST7 has all the diagnostics laid out for you.
And yes the axle will bolt right up in your vehicle in the front, the rear will depend on where it came from, if it was in a 1 ton it will need relocating of perches but if it came from a 3/4 ton it will fit right in
 
Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking I would try to feel him out when I talk with him, see what vehicle they were on, if they were taken care of, etc. Then try to come down on price. I am no where close to spring branch right now but may head down that direction this weekend to do some other projects so I thought they may be worth a look.

If these axles are stock and in good shape, would y'all do anything else to them? I am no hardcore wheeler by any means but I want the better gearing for running larger tires and I run through pretty hairy spots at high speeds from time to time. I plan on keeping this burb forever so I just kinda want to make it as tough/maintenance free as possible.
 
bigmike585 said:
Ok, so, when looking for a Dana 60, I need to make sure it's for GM vehicles, correct? (dumb question proly) Looks like they have Dana 60 off of Dodge and Ford as well, these will not work I gather. Also I know my stock front axle has the diff on the passenger side, not sure if Dana makes an axle for GM trucks that has a diff on the driver side, but I need to make sure it's on the pass side. Do people typically sell these axles with brakes/rotors intact? Another dumb question, will I be able to bolt these axles up to my springs using the spring perches as is on the axle? Or will mods have to be made?
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dodge's are doable, but get a GM... a 14 out of a 3/4 ton will bolt up, but out of a 1 ton, you'll have to move the perches... the 60 will bolt up with new u-bolts (3 u-bolts, 2 bolts/studs) and backing plates for a 60... you'll also need conversion u-joints for both... oh, and you may be changing front brake hoses, depending on your yr...
 
ryoken said:
dodge's are doable, but get a GM... a 14 out of a 3/4 ton will bolt up, but out of a 1 ton, you'll have to move the perches... the 60 will bolt up with new u-bolts (3 u-bolts, 2 bolts/studs) and backing plates for a 60... you'll also need conversion u-joints for both... oh, and you may be changing front brake hoses, depending on your yr...
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The front won't need a conversion U joint, they all run 1310 stock.:thumb:
Brake hoses is another matter, those changed a couple of times.
 
dang it, and I just replaced the brake lines with stainless ones when i did the lift
 
What part of the country are you in? If a guy around here was asking $1000, and you offered him $650, he'd laugh at you and you'd lose all credibility.

Not saying anyone elsewhere is wrong, but if you're in an area where 60s are popular upgrades (Reno has tons of rock crawlers and buggies), most sellers are aware of what they have and how much they can get for it. I just know if you offered me $650, I'd laugh and tell you $1000 instead of entertaining the $800 I probably would have taken, just because I'd know that you didn't know what you were doing.

Again, this is over here in a city on the West Coast. I know you guys to the east have all kinds of parts availability that we don't have over here. :doah:

Oh and try to get the spring plates for the 60. They're not something you can go grab at a junkyard easily.
 
O, the axles are located in S. Texas close to San Antonio. I'll add spring plates to my list of things to look for. I didnt realize the plates would be diff but I suppose the Ubolt seats could be spaced differently.
 
Last time I checked through a junk yard that actually has or gets 60s on a regular basis they were wanting $1250 for a front 60 alone. And you as the buyer had no idea of its condition or previous life. Im sure if there was a problem they would refund your money or exchange the axle but maybe not. The problem is that the junk yard owners son who is a co owner is also has a blazer that he wheels along with lots of his friends so they know what they are and what the can do. Dont know many people who buy them at the $1250 price though and the son sells them to all his buddies at a discount Im sure. I lucked out and found a running/driving (after I installed a battery) 1980 chevy one ton 4x4 for $500 from a rancher who got a new truck and then used his daily driver truck as his new feed truck so he retired this truck. Before he gave me a price he kept saying he felt like he was robbing somebody because other than the decent drivetrain the rest of the truck was junk. He said $500 and I couldnt get the thing on the trailer and leave his house fast enough. I kept the front 60, 4 bolt main 350, 465 tranny, 205 transfer case, and frame (just cause i havent hauled it off yet) and hauled the cab which was 6 or more different colors and all beat up and the flat bed which was all rusted and falling off across the scales and got $400 back. We also filled the cab with scrap pipe and metal we had laying around. I then sold the 350 to a guy at work for $250 because at that time I had 3 of them. So I have $0 in a front 60. Now I still need to rebuild it and gear it and everything else but I am still money ahead. So if you have the time and place to try and pull parts off of one and scrap the rest dont rule that out. My wife gets so pissed off cause Im constantly asking people about this truck or that truck and going to look at them. But I explain stuff to her and she finally gets it. I have just been very lucky in finding some good parts. Hopefully you can too.

Now if I can just start collecting money to build all of these parts to install in my blazer I would have a capable vehicle!
 
I would do the rear disc brake conversion while you had the rearm out. Pretty simple and inexpensive.
 
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