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ORD doubler or Klune-V

mtn. burb

mtn. burb

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Unfortunately, not for me yet. My best friend has a 67 Chev. shortbed 350ZZ4/SM465/NP205/D44/14BFF/AGR, etc. He has the NP203. So, Doubler or Klune-V ??

Looking forward to /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif
 
I know I will be chastised around here, but I say the Klune ROCKS. I have had mine for 2 years of HARD abuse and it has performed great. I love it.!!!!!
 
Poor man's doubler. SM 465. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Biggest positive on the Klune is more gearing options (instead of 2 cases at essentially 2:1), lighter by a bit, and shorter by a few inches.

My understanding (never having done the numbers myself) is that if you have the 203 and a 31 or 32 spline input 205, and enough wheel base (generally 100” or over), and don't mind the extra weight (about 30 lbs?) then the doubler will be quite a bit cheaper. But, if you have to find/buy the 203 (can often be had for free) and deal with the 205 input (large bearing 31 or 32 spline female) then that cuts into the savings and may make the shorter/lighter/deeper geared Klune more competitive. As I recall, that was what caused Nash to go with the Klune even though it is more expensive.

Here is one more thing to think about though that will make the Doubler more competitive if you don't already have the correct 205. The common as dirt Ford 205 input is 31 spline and can be used in the GM case with no more effort than the expensive and hard to find (ORD has them new) 32 spline GM. Both use the same large bearing and are equaling robust. I got a good price on a Ford 205 and put the 31 spline Ford input in my GM case with the side bene of a front 32 spline output so I could run the 1410 front yoke. Even if you don’t want front 1410, this also gets you a stronger output to replace the only known weak point in the GM 205.

Hope that makes some sense...
 
I'm torn with this very same decision right now. I have tranny/t-case combos to go either way so for me I can go either way. My concern is if the Klune unit is strong enough to survive in a moderately high hp/tq truck that's heavy (5500~6000lbs). I've done some searching and found a lot of people with the David unit in lighter vehicles and a few with the Goliath units but most are in buggies or truggies that should weigh less that a full bodied K5.

I also learned in my searching that while the Klune Goliath can be purchased for around $1500 only the later model TH400/205 round bolt pattern combo is a "direct" bolt up, just about everything else requires expensive (average $500) adapters.

Everything I've read about the Klune has been very positive but it scares me that it's not more widely used in our "market".
 
DBlazer, which Klune unit do you have? What are the specs on your rig?

BTW - that wheelie video is SWEET!! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
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My understanding (never having done the numbers myself) is that if you have the 203 and a 31 or 32 spline input 205, and enough wheel base (generally 100” or over), and don't mind the extra weight (about 30 lbs?) then the doubler will be quite a bit cheaper. But, if you have to find/buy the 203 (can often be had for free) and deal with the 205 input (large bearing 31 or 32 spline female) then that cuts into the savings and may make the shorter/lighter/deeper geared Klune more competitive. As I recall, that was what caused Nash to go with the Klune even though it is more expensive.

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This was my thing. #1 I have an Atlass II and no was making an adapter to add a doubler for a reasonable price. I liked the versatility of the mounting of the Klune control. I like the fact that is all machined aluminim and is strong as hell. I knew a number of people running them in their Jeeps and such and they had good luck with them. AND, when I ran the numbers, by the time I found the old tcase sent it off to have it chopped, got it back along with the adapters and installed ........ the price was not that different,AND I had a new unit with a Warranty not a used unit that was cut to fit soto speak.


[ QUOTE ]
I'm torn with this very same decision right now. I have tranny/t-case combos to go either way so for me I can go either way. My concern is if the Klune unit is strong enough to survive in a moderately high hp/tq truck that's heavy (5500~6000lbs). I've done some searching and found a lot of people with the David unit in lighter vehicles and a few with the Goliath units but most are in buggies or truggies that should weigh less that a full bodied K5.

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I run the Goliath. I have run it hard for the 2 years. I am at 6600 lbs. I HAVE RUN THIS THING HARD!! For those that know me , I will go anywhare and try anything thing. NOW, I am not a throttle guy. I know the video shows me pulling the wheelie, but that is very contrary to how I wheel on the trail. I am a crawle. I love the slow take your time, pic the line, work it up and over. It works for me and the KLUNE has worked for me.
NOW.......I did break the output shaft on the Klune about 2 months ago. I was unable to locate my receipt. I spoke with Luke at Klune, and he used my Serial numbers found that it was still under warranty, by 1 month, (it comes with a 2 year warranty) and replaced the output shaft. NOT only did they replace the shaft, BUT they upgraded me to the 32 spline output. (Which I recomend up front). They covered shipping to and from.
Good company to deal with and I strongly recomend.

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Everything I've read about the Klune has been very positive but it scares me that it's not more widely used in our "market".

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Now I may ruffle some feathers, but here we go. I think people don't run this in our market because for the most part they seem to be cheap !! (I am in know way intending to isnult anyone, and if I do sorry...............CHEAPO!!!!!!
Exit-Stage-Right.gif

I think that they see the up front cost of the klune and the adapter and get scared and think they run. But I am willing to bet in the end it is close to even. I did not have to find a unit, I did not have to send anything anywher. I orered, it came, I nstalled, it fit. It was new, it was clean. It still rocks.
 
Wow! I had no idea your truck was that heavy. I just assumed based on the pics that it was lighter than average. What were you doing to break the shaft? Did it do any damage to the unit? Long term servicability(?) is something else I'm concerned with.

Initially, I too was scared of the price until I figured out I have the one tranny/t-case combo that doesn't require an adapter. Like you the overall cost for me will be about the same; Doubler is cheaper but will have to build a tranny / Klune is more but that tranny is freshly built and ready to run.

I'm a little worried because my style of wheeling is mostly mud so heavier use of the throttle is necessary. Klune says it will work fine but then again I don't expect them to say different. I want it yet I'm scared of it, dare to be different right? /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

How about the shifter? It looks kind of cheesy, does it work well? Does it have good "feel" of the engagement?
 
So let me get this right, because I want to get a Klune really bad... In order to stick a Klune Between a 700R4 and a NP241 you'd have to spend another $500 for the adapter ontop of the $1500, no?

Not to Hijack...
I am really debating on what to do with my Jimmy since the wreck and the Ins. company totaled it out. I was wanting to swap a truck cab and make a truggy and drop a Klune in. I know the Klune would survive, but would the 241? Just the thought of having a CR of about 116 with an auto makes me drool.

Nash, whats your crawl ratio with the Klune and Atlas?
 
[ QUOTE ]
So let me get this right, because I want to get a Klune really bad... In order to stick a Klune Between a 700R4 and a NP241 you'd have to spend another $500 for the adapter ontop of the $1500, no?

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Oops, I stand corrected. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I rechecked their web site and your 241 application should be a direct bolt up. Until you said something I had only been studying the 205 applications because that is what I'm dealing with, sorry. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
(In my best Dodge Hemi voice) Sweeeeet /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Sorry, I am probably the one that got my wires crossed
 
I called JB conversions here in Louisiana and they said it's a dirrect bolt up, no adapter needed. There is another new crawl box that just came on the market too that is a lot like the KluneV but supposedly a simpler design.
 
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There is another new crawl box that just came on the market too that is a lot like the KluneV but supposedly a simpler design.

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Links? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
It's featured on one of the latest Peterson's mags, but whatever the name was, they didn't have a webiste that was up, I checked to no avail
 
Isn't that the one made from a 241 planetary setup and no shifting? Just a gear reduction box, no 1:1.
 
yes it is kind of cheesy, but it wqorks great. I like it now because it is a cable shift so I can put it about wherever it is needed. It has been moved twice !!!

I think it broke from when my 14 bolt went POW!!. It was a very hard break. When the axel let go it took my gears and detropit and the output shaft all at the same time. It was a very violent break!!!

I wedg that big rig in many MANY places and it just keeps going. It has a whole lot to do with the Klune!!
 
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