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ORD Steering Brace Install With Pics.

munepit

munepit

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Well I am going to install the weld in brace today. I have it in place and it looks like it doesnt fit well at all. I am going to have to modify the bolt holes as they dont match up to well. Also torch it to conform better as it doesnt fit right. So far, not to impressed with it. We will see. What do you think about the fit?

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A few more. The frame has a small crack on the bottom corner of the frame. Other than that, its not bent or deformed at all.

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you should be repairing any cracks prior to install... they all require some massaging... the key is to get it bolted up tight first.. then heat, massage, bash, clamp it in place... make sure you only stitch weld it in the areas your supposed to, not all the way around...
 
Get some shorter bolts bolt the brace tight to the frame. Weld, beat, weld, beat..... repeat.

You just have to make it fit.
 
Drill a small stop hole at each end of that crack, v-notch it, and weld it back up.
 
Thanks for the advise guys. A member here (bradshawtech) is comming over today to help. I will post some pics when we get this thing beat in and welded. Thanks again
 
as mentioned above, I put my box on over the plate for proper alignment, then tacked it top and bottom, removed the box, and it will form simply with a hammer, no heat needed. Tack from the top and bottom, then form it as you work towards the ends, and again as mentioned only weld in the described instructions, then use some sealant to seal the unwelded portions to prevent moisture between the two pieces.
 
76zimmer said:
as mentioned above, I put my box on over the plate for proper alignment, then tacked it top and bottom, removed the box, and it will form simply with a hammer, no heat needed. Tack from the top and bottom, then form it as you work towards the ends, and again as mentioned only weld in the described instructions, then use some sealant to seal the unwelded portions to prevent moisture between the two pieces.
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Good idea. I am going to seal it after we are done. Thanks!!!
 
ryoken said:
it's all about the seam sealer baby! :wink1:
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Thanks for saying seam sealer. I didn't know what kind to use. If it wasn't for this site, and the members here, I don't think I would have ever got the burb back on the road again. Thanks again!
 
Munepit, I love your avatar!
Makes me wanna go out and shoot some rounds with my Glock17 everytime I see it :waytogo:

ryoken said:
make sure you only stitch weld it in the areas your supposed to, not all the way around...
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Why is it bad to weld it fully?
I think I'd rather do that, than use sealer to keep moisture out...:dunno:
 
Fred_M1010 said:
Munepit, I love your avatar!
Makes me wanna go out and shoot some rounds with my Glock17 everytime I see it :waytogo:



Why is it bad to weld it fully?
I think I'd rather do that, than use sealer to keep moisture out...:dunno:
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I think the idea behind not welding it fully is to keep the heat affected zone smaller, thus controlling any potential warpage from excess heat. Some say too much heat will hurt the temper of the steel....but there is nothing special about the frames on these trucks, they're just mild steel. It's your choice, but there are no significant real world advantages to stitch welding these things on. These things are not swiss watches or nuclear reactors, they're trucks. If you want to weld it fully, let'er rip. If you feel more comfy stitch welding it, go for it. On my old truggy, I fully welded it. When I do the one on my V3500, I'm gonna fully weld it. I just think it looks cooler. :D

And trying to seal it from moisture by fully welding it or using seam sealer is redundant. The bolt holes are still open. Moisture will get in there no matter what.
 
according to Stephen at ORD it creates stress risers...

and how are "bolt holes" that now have fasteners thru them, tightened, a source for moisture? pretty simple to smear sealer in that gap prior to box install.......
 
Stress risers? Where? I swear man.....this is not rocket science, no need to over think this stuff to the level of stress risers. With a stitch welded set-up, there will be a "stress riser" at the start and finish point of every weld. Even if there are stress risers, they will be soooo small as to be insignificant for this application. Like I said, these are not incredibly intricate, structural assemblies that need ultra fine tolerances, x-ray quality welds and anal retentive fab skills to work as they were intended. All respect to Stephen, but I am more qualified to comment on the welding/metallurgy aspect of this stuff. He did not go to a formal welding school, I did.

A hole with a fastener through it does not equal a water tight joint.
 
pretty simple procedure for keeping moisture out of there called wetbedding....

but your THE master fabricator and I'm some hack amateur... post your truggy pics now...
 
ryoken said:
pretty simple procedure for keeping moisture out of there called wetbedding....

but your THE master fabricator and I'm some hack amateur... post your truggy pics now...
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Jesus man....butt hurt much? I never said anything about you bein a hack job...I think your build thread/pictures speak for themselves.

Ok, so there's a procedure....is it really practical for this kinda ****? Come on man...

Relax. I wasn't trying to assert some kind of fabricator dominance, or get into some ridiculous pissing contest. Just tryin to pass some knowledge along. You got your panties in a wad. :eek1:
 
not butt hurt at all.. just defending the way I do things.... I just know how you've responded in the past when people disagree with you...

f*ck, i'll bet the farm 1/2 the people installing these braces wouldn't even think of weld-thru primers, etc, and leave sh*t raw steel.... I've seen it in here plenty of times... stitch weld it and let water run right between the plates.. whatever.... I've always tried to take the "make it last" approach... practical is a function of priorities... seen the other line of thinking turn to a ball of rust in a couple years..

as to the stress risers... from my understanding of the subject, it's those interior corners of the patch where the prob lies, creates much more of a prob spot than the end of a stitch would be... but yeah, sure, it's a cr@pshoot anyway, I'm sure lots of fully welded ones have been fine....
 
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