What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

ORD triple stick install questions

Desert Rat

Desert Rat

Fetch the comfy chair
Joined
Oct 19, 2002
Posts
16,246
Reaction score
15
Location
Tri-Valley, NorCal
Does anybody have any pics of how the linkage all hooks up? I have the one pic from ORD's site but it doesn't seem to be the same seutp as mine. I have also found several things that after searching and reading all the threads on the triple stick, seem to be common. I have found that I am cutting a lot of sheet metal out of the side of the hump. I also have found that the top plate for the boots sticks out quite a bit. I would love to see some pics of solutions people have come up with. I read in one post that the later model removable hump was wider than earlier model Blazers. Will the later model hump bolt into an earlier model or is the entire hump wider? I plan on doing Line-X later so I would like the plate install to be somewhat clean and sealed. Suggestions?
 
here is a good thread for the 3 stick. For the floor, I haven't finished mine yet but check my build up thread it has a picture of the floor. I had to cut some out of the hump to clearance the shifters and a hole almost under the passenger seat to clear the 205.

Jesse
 
Didn't see a link. Well, I really had to hack the hell out of my tunnel to get everything installed. Previously I had to cut a hole in the back area to let the adapter and vent tube stick up. The first thing I ran into this time was needed to make a huge hole in the tunnel for the three sticks. Since the tranny sits up so high, I think the triple sticks also are oriented weird. Then the next thing I ran into was the side bracket that attaches to the pivot bolt on the triple sticks and runs to the back attaching to another L bracket that hooks to the adapter. First I thought that maybe I could drop the crossmember and it would fit. But, I would have to drop it way to much:

Crossmember_gap.jpg


This would change the geometry of the rear end which I just got done welding the spring perches and setting the angles just right. So, no dropping the crossmember. As a result, I had to cut a huge channel in the side of the tunnel just to get this to fit.

Side_channel_cut.jpg


It still sticks out a ton and I guess I'll be doing some serious sheet metal fabbing to get everything hidden again. The plate that ORD gives you is touching the rear raised bump on the tunnel so I will have to flatten that down as well. I still need to adjust the two right sticks as they hit the rear when pulled all the way back. I also found out that the linkage on the two NP205 sticks doesn't sit level like in the instructions. I have a feeling ORD had their NP205 rotated up. Mine sits in stock rotation and so the linkages are pretty angled. I also had to add some washers to the bolt to try and level them out a bit. I also think ORD designed this thing for a newer Blazer with a wider tunnel. This thing is turning into a nightmare....
 
what is the year break you're talking about for the early/late models you're talking about?
 
It looks like a lot of cutting. Fab up some sheet metal covers, and it will look fine. I would like to see the linkage issues in a pic. Doubler/triple stick is in the future plans for my '77.
 
I'm not sure when they started making the wider tunnels. I'm guessing when they changed the rear floor/body mounts. To be honest, if I was to start this project now, I'd go with a Stak or a LoMax instead. I still haven't solved the crossmember issue for the front driveshaft. I will have to fab up my own setup since nobody sells anything.
 
I got all of Dremu's pics but for some reason, his went easier than mine. You can see from my pics that the side bracket would not fit in my tunnel at all. I'm looking at a lot of sheetmetal fabbing.
 
Desert Rat said:
I got all of Dremu's pics but for some reason, his went easier than mine. You can see from my pics that the side bracket would not fit in my tunnel at all. I'm looking at a lot of sheetmetal fabbing.
Click to expand...

Well, the some reason is that your drive train is entirely different from mine -- you and I have talked about this but I'll lay it out for the public eye.

I'm running a TH350 with a '203/205, ORD Doubler, clocked 2".

DR's got a 700R4 (loooong), with a '203/205 ORD Doubler *not clocked*.

I would think the clocking would pull the passenger side of the cases UP, so mine would be nearer the sheetmetal ... but yours are farther back, i.e. BEHIND the hump, versus mine are UNDER the hump.

Ya know, I wonder if next time I'm at the PnP I should get you two tranny humps, which you can weld together and make a superlong one... :thinking:

Further, please do not ever remind me that I said "tranny" and "hump" in the same sentence. :doah: :haha:

-- A
 
Hmmm, signing up for the Phuket Asian Lady Boy Tour again are we? I keep looking at my hack job and trying to figure out exactly how I am going to keep the ability to remove the front portion and still widen it out to accomodate all the funky protruberances (couple that with tranny and hump will ya....). I'm hoping a local fab shop will have the skills to pretty it up for me. I'm not so sure my welding skills are up to it.
 
Why didnt you go with the 2'' up rotation if you were planning on putting the whole doubler up into the body so far?
 
I already had a pretty severe front driveline angle and didn't want to make it worse with an up rotation. Besides, I didn't think the doubler would be so far up in the tunnel. I really am not sure it is because of the 700r4. I thought I saw somewhere where somebody posted the tranny lengths and the 700r4 was about the same length as the TH400 I think. But, maybe the design of the tail end of the tranny raises up the TC. Maybe this is why the later model trucks and Blazers had the different tranny hump that was wider, and the crossmembers are different.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom