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Painting my blazer...

I just need this thing to get back and forth to work and school. Maybe 6 miles a day. After I'm done with school, I might do some things to it so I can take it on some trails, so I just want it to drive and not be pink at this point. I'm not too picky.
 
So when you bought that pink K5 from the 7up commercial, they didn't give you the tires with it? :dunno:

I've done all three methods. Rattle can, roll on, and cheap HF sprayer ($15? for the gun)

A cheap sprayer is the easest way to lay down a lot of paint, good coverage, and good results. Problem if you don't have a compressor, or have a compressor that will keep up with the CFM. I used my buddies, can't remember what CFM it did at the PSI my gun required, but 110v, 40gal. Could barely keep up, had to stop and wait on big things like the hood. When I was done with the truck, so was the gun.

Rattle can is super easy, but if there's any breeze, you're screwed. Like 1/4 of the paint will get on the truck, and it'll be thin, breeze or not. Figure what you need, and double it. To give you an idea, I used two cans on just one door and wished I used a 3rd. That was a door though I took to bare metal. Good thing about rattle cans, do what you can, or have time for that day, do more tomorrow. When you're done spraying, toss the can in the trash, no clean up. Do a door today, a fender tomorrow. Down side of the sprayer is cleaning the bastard!

I rolled the bed portion of my 68 GMC pickup, it put on a lot of paint, I didn't even thin it like most roll on 'how to' articles, and it still turned out really good. DON'T do what I did and forget to use a FOAM roller :haha: I forget how long it took me to sand the lint out. The only down side if you don't thin the paint, is you'll get a lot of orange peel, and w/o using a hardener, it takes weeks before you can sand.

I bought basic rustoleum that was some shade of blue cause it most closely matched what color the truck already was. I probably didn't use a gallon. I had to buy it in qts though, cause no one carried this specific blue in a gallon nearby. I think it was $30 at Lowes for a gallon? Pints were like 9-12, I forget. Going cheap, just use rustoleum. They have gallons of primer too if that's what you'd like to do. BTW I didn't sand this to metal, OR prime it. It was just my first attempt (other than the rattle can) to get a decent finish. Only spots I primed was where I was rusting and took it to metal.

Here's a pic of the truck I painted, HF spray guned all but the bed. Rolled that on.

IMAG0177.jpg
 
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Oh and one thing I forgot to mention in my hours of paint info before I did that pickup. Lots of people choose to do primer. Keep in mind primer is porous. If you want that "primer" look, just do a flat light grey. Do any color, flat, satin or gloss. But do a top coat type paint, even if flat. Primer isn't meant to be subjected to weather.
 
Thanks for the tips. I think I'll just go with a flat grey, using a foam roller. I don't want to do any sanding or other prep work (my K5 isn't worth the trouble). With that said, should I lay any primer over the current paint, or just roll on the final flat grey?

Thanks again.
 
wash the truck thoroughly with a scuff pad and soap to dull the pink.... rinse.. park in sun, drink beer till dry..

with that pink, you'll get your best results probably if ya go a coat of each, primer, than a topcoat.. so maybe a gal of each, if that..... that'd be like $75, 80 probably, cheaper than rattlecans more than likely....... and no masking really....

add at least a splash of mineral sprits to let it flow a bit... the thinner the paint, the smoother the coat, and less coverage obviously.. if ya just want it to cover well, and don't care about a bit of orange peel, you can go pretty thick with the rusto... but ya need at least a splash, if not more, so it lays out to some extent. straight from the can doesn't flow nearly as well..
 
I don't care about orange peel; the bondo and rust on the sheet metal is pretty bad. But, I'll probably sand it down a bit just to get rid of some of the flaking (especially above the windshield). I guess I'll primer and then use a flat grey, or some other color I can find for cheap. After the primer though, you still think I should add some mineral spirits to thin the paint? Like I said, I don't care about the finish, just how far the paint will stretch and still cover.
 
you should always add at least a little bit...
 
I bought a sanding block, but it's taking way too long. I tried finding something to use that would attach to a drill, but everything seemed to rough. I only want to remove most of the house paint (that's what I'm sure it is) and get down to the original paint. Everything I found at Lowe's seemed rough enough to take it down to bare metal, which is what I don't want to do. Any suggestions?
 
palm sander, or better yet, a DA, with some 180 to 240 on if..
 
I don't wanna spend any more money than I have to. I have access to an angle grinder an a drill. Is there anything I can get that will work with either one of those?
 
rotary tools = disaster paint work... you can buy a palm sander for like $30 at depot..

or like I said, just scrub the sh*t out of the whole truck with a scuff pad and hot soapy water..
 
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