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Panhard ideas and pics?
- Thread starter camok5
- Start date
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
what exactly does a panhard bar do? prevents swaying?
sled_dog
1 ton status
it controls side to side motion. Its mostly used with 4 links that aren't triangulated(lets not get into the whle 4/5 link thing). The Panhard controls the side to side motion, where as in a triangulated setup, the triangulation controls side to side movement. In a leaf sprung setup, the springs control side to side, but not as well as a panhard does, especially when taller/softer lift springs are used. Thus the addition of a panhard on leaf springs.
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
Alrighty, thanks Alan. Makes sense now.
For a non-steering axle I would use either a Watts link or the WOB link. Both of these designs won't bind up the springs as their travel path is nearly vertically linear. Fitting the WOB under a truck would be a challenge, but I think a Watts laid flat will work.
So does anyone have any good pics of the watts or the wob setups and what are the down sides to running them?
This is a basturdized Watts linkage. For the moment pay it no attention.
This is a small, but decent illustration of what a Watts Link looks like.
http://www.xks.com/restoration/images/gt427/tb_gt427_undercar3.jpg
http://www.cs.unc.edu/~zhangh/LR/pics/watts2.JPG
Traditionally Watts linkages are laid out with the bellcrank in a verticle plane, but some of these pics show in a horizontal plane. Seems like a better idea to me.
This is a small, but decent illustration of what a Watts Link looks like.
http://www.xks.com/restoration/images/gt427/tb_gt427_undercar3.jpg
http://www.cs.unc.edu/~zhangh/LR/pics/watts2.JPG
Traditionally Watts linkages are laid out with the bellcrank in a verticle plane, but some of these pics show in a horizontal plane. Seems like a better idea to me.
great pics but not sure how I would make that work on my 4x4?
Finally had time to look for the WOB link jpg. For a 4WD application I would reverse the frame and axle mounting points.
As to how to make it work on a 4x4, the crucial thing to know is that the height of the axle attaching point, at the chassis centerline, will be the roll center of that suspension.
As to how to make it work on a 4x4, the crucial thing to know is that the height of the axle attaching point, at the chassis centerline, will be the roll center of that suspension.
Ok so I figured out how long and at what angel I need to run my panhard at, but can anyone tell me if it would hurt to run shackle style ends as apposed to heim joints?
sled_dog
1 ton status
Shackle style ends? You mean bushings? If you mean like you would do with a traction bar setup(actual shackle with 2 pivot points) it would hurt GREATLY. The panhards job is to control side to side motion, an actual shackle would just let it free float side to side and it would effectively, do nothing.
Sorry, yes I mean bushings. 
Each bushing will allow a bit of lateral motion that an SRE would not. That being said, I do not think you'll like the noise that comes with SRE's (transmits road noise etc. into the chassis). The best solution that the Early Bronco crowd have come up with is to put an SRE at the axle end and a bushing at the chassis end on the front trac-bars (panhards). The noise is acceptable from what I've heard, and so is the axle control.
So would the little bit of movment that the bushing style has outway the noise of the heim joint style? Plus I can make the bushing style alot easier, is there any other draw backs?
