CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

picked up a 1960 studebaker

Loving the way this is coming together

Thanks!

Today was my friday off and I was hoping to get the rear suspension at least tacked in place but I took a little extra time getting the rear end cleaned up and smoothed out instead. I also bought new outer bearings and seals as well as parking brake pads to get everything right the first time around. The spring pads are 15/16" per side away from being a bolt-in swap, so close yet so far. :grin:

I smoothed out the tube welds and any casting flash around the housing, a shame it'll all be well hidden under the car.

Work shall continue tomorrow, hopefully have it sitting on springs before the weekend's up.

IMG_20160610_193623117.jpg
 
I checked the pad width under the car and everything looked good so they got fully welded then I shot it with a good coat of primer and finally a satin black enamel top coat.

I have an aluminum Moser cover with the bearing cap support screws on it's way along with a lube locker gasket.

IMG_20160611_195304038.jpg


IMG_20160612_111837883.jpg
 
My Moser cover came in yesterday, still waiting on the lube locker gasket, but I bolted the axle under the car in the meantime.

Still need to plate the rear of the frame and attach the shackle hangers.

IMG_20160614_202655807.jpg
 
what's the purpose of those brackets on the 8.8? I assume you'll be using them since you left them.....?
 
what's the purpose of those brackets on the 8.8? I assume you'll be using them since you left them.....?

They're the original sway bar brackets, I left them just in case I decide to reuse them, they worked out well on the ford.
 
Made some progress over the weekend but at the same time hit a little snag with the steering. One step forward, two steps back I guess. I got the rear shackle hangers all burned in so it's half a roller again but then I tried to fit the motor with the high clearance Hooker manifolds and they still don't clear the steering so I'll probably be going to a rack and pinion setup.

I have basically two options for this one being a full replacement crossmember and mustang 2 suspension or try and mount a rack behind the factory crossmember on a cradle. The factory steering knuckles attach the tie rods behind the axle centerline which is why I would try and mount the rack behind the crossmember. I'll probably try this method first because if worst comes to worst I can use the rack and rotors I already bought for the other suspension as well.

Don't mind the mark that was an early measurement.
IMG_20160617_215529098.jpg


IMG_20160617_170808913.jpg


IMG_20160617_214641956.jpg


Test fit with the radiator, I'll most likely move the motor back at least another inch from this location.

IMG_20160619_231429205.jpg


IMG_20160619_231444637.jpg
 
Last edited:
My much anticipated gauges arrived last week I think I ordered them around the end of May. They're from a company called Speedhut which has been around since 2001 but I only discovered after starting this project. They offer a ton of options as far as face color, backlighting, bezel, font and also allow for custom graphics and writing to be placed on the gauge face.

Another cool thing is the speedometer is GPS driven and records data such as top speed, 0-60, 1/4 mile times, and a few other things. They also come with a lifetime warranty and are made in the USA.

I went with a pretty basic layout black with blue illumination to match the car and added the "STUDEBAKER" text in between the high beam and turn signal leds.
IMG_20160623_183146890.jpg


Originals for comparison.
IMG_20160623_181223224.jpg


They're very low profile, and the wiring is all pre-terminated harness connectors.
IMG_20160623_184434117.jpg
 
Wow, those are very cool!
I love them and found them kind of by accident I think I searched 4 in 1 gauge because I knew I wanted to keep a somewhat factory look and not have a bunch of gauge pods cluttering up the dash.

This just got very interesting!!! Looking forward to the :burnout:
Me too I'm hoping to run low 12 second quarter miles with it.
 
Another really cool feature is the fuel gauge is programmable to any sending unit with a range under 300ohms, so this will work with the OEM Studebaker unit already in the tank.
 
Something else that's in the works is I'm going to run 245s at all four corners instead of the originally planned 215s, so I picked up some used rubber off craigslist for $60 to see if it'll all fit.

They'll help fill out the wheel wells better not to mention the added performance.

IMG_20160624_222344989.jpg


I'll be going with a 17x9 of these american racing torque thrust M series wheels in the anthracite and machined lip.

600600100American-Racing-Torq-Thrust-M-Anthracite.jpg


Here's the best looking rendition I've found of them.

ar%20wheel.jpg
 
Hurry up and get this car done so I can send you my Willys wagon to finish, you are really making great progress!!
 
With this hobby, I'm very fortunate to have the job and access to the machines that I do. I work at a laser cutting, welding, and marking facility so naturally I find small things for my projects that I can make at work for that added custom touch. I've been working on a gauge trim plate to go over the stamped steel dash insert and after a couple attempts and some hand filing I got the fit just right.

This one was just for mockup and to get the profile just right, the real piece will have an engine turned finish like how I did on the Ford. The difference this time though is I won't be using a thick billet insert and making the pattern myself but instead I found that Speedway sells pre-turned .060" thick aluminum sheets 6" wide and from 12"-48" long. Although kinda limited in width for anything large it'll work perfect for the trim plate.

I should be getting the piece from speedway this week but here's the mock up piece for reference.

IMG_20160628_204601521.jpg


IMG_20160628_204628196.jpg
 
Top Bottom