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PLAN B

This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy. And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
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Man I wish I saw this earlier, I dont stop in often enough. Your symptoms are alot in line with mopar front CV failures.

I'm gonna also suggest ditching the CV for the front and running a typical 2 joint shaft. The 1350 CV head doesnt have alot of angle capability compared to a single 1350 ujoint and 1310 and 1410 have a ton more than the 1350cv.
Also the 1350cv driveshaft is strong but definitely not strong enough at its higher operating angles that we have them at. They are good to be fully loaded on a stock superduty with a high pinion 60 but after that the ball and socket will quickly fail.

In conclusion, 1350 CV cant hang.
 
imiceman44 said:
Did I mention it in the beginning?
I know I have said it in a few posts already but I had a similar experience and it didn't take long to find out.
Same day.
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Oh yeah you mentioned it. I should have swapped drivelines that first weekend... but they should have looked at it like they said they did...
 
obijuank5 said:
Man I wish I saw this earlier, I dont stop in often enough. Your symptoms are alot in line with mopar front CV failures.

I'm gonna also suggest ditching the CV for the front and running a typical 2 joint shaft. The 1350 CV head doesnt have alot of angle capability compared to a single 1350 ujoint and 1310 and 1410 have a ton more than the 1350cv.
Also the 1350cv driveshaft is strong but definitely not strong enough at its higher operating angles that we have them at. They are good to be fully loaded on a stock superduty with a high pinion 60 but after that the ball and socket will quickly fail.

In conclusion, 1350 CV cant hang.
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I definitely would not use a cv joint for hard core rock crawling it's good for the occasional droop while flying through a desert though as long as most of the time it's in the straight position
 
imiceman44 said:
I definitely would not use a cv joint for hard core rock crawling it's good for the occasional droop while flying through a desert though as long as most of the time it's in the straight position
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@imiceman44
Are you saying a double cardan is no good for wheeling or are you thinking of something more light duty like a car axle would have? I have run a double cardan front and rear on all my trucks and have never had an issue.
 
Imo they have no place in a rock crawler driveshaft. I've got a really long front driveshaft in my blazer. I have a doubler and I dont even have 52s and I can break a 1350CV on droop. They just dont flex.
 
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the_blaze said:
@imiceman44
Are you saying a double cardan is no good for wheeling or are you thinking of something more light duty like a car axle would have? I have run a double cardan front and rear on all my trucks and have never had an issue.
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I am saying that the cv is for limited angles, the closer you get to the limits the higher the chance for damage.
1350 is very limited, the 1410 is better, and clearancing a cv is not doing it any favors it allows it to reach angles it can't survive.
If you want to build a stronger driveshaft no cv is stronger
 
imiceman44 said:
I am saying that the cv is for limited angles, the closer you get to the limits the higher the chance for damage.
1350 is very limited, the 1410 is better, and clearancing a cv is not doing it any favors it allows it to reach angles it can't survive.
If you want to build a stronger driveshaft no cv is stronger
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While I understand your thoughts on this, a single joint at maximum angle is not stronger than a CV which shares the angle over 2 joints. At maximum angle is always the point of lowest torque capacity. Which is why axle joints fail faster at full turn. And my Tom Woods 1350 CV has lots more angle capability than the stock ones out of stock vehicles. I have compared them side by side on the floor. Worn out parts, such as the pivot ball or joints themselves will cause torque values to decrease, of course.
 
6872xtc said:
While I understand your thoughts on this, a single joint at maximum angle is not stronger than a CV which shares the angle over 2 joints. At maximum angle is always the point of lowest torque capacity. Which is why axle joints fail faster at full turn. And my Tom Woods 1350 CV has lots more angle capability than the stock ones out of stock vehicles. I have compared them side by side on the floor. Worn out parts, such as the pivot ball or joints themselves will cause torque values to decrease, of course.
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My point is that the u joints are strong enough, the pivot ball is the week link in a cv, it's always been the failure in every driveshaft I had.
 
I'm with @obijuank5. When I get new shafts done I'll go without the CV. Only thing it does in my opinion is add cost and help with angles and vibrations. Especially on a front shaft that shouldn't be in on the highway unless it's Utah and a foot on snow on the ground and you still like to go the speed limit. Glad you found the issue though. Crappy shops piss me off cuz they give mechanics a bad rap with everyone.
 
When I had mine built, the “experienced” 60 yr old at the driveline shop said to ditch the double cardan and go with 1410’s throughout and never look back....the Maiden isn't the flexiest thing out there, but my shafts work great.

D95120F9-5CFB-4734-BC68-7990F0F58F4C.jpeg
 
the_blaze said:
Oh yeah you mentioned it. I should have swapped drivelines that first weekend... but they should have looked at it like they said they did...
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This whole experience has made me think twice about using them for anything again.
 
ashman said:
This whole experience has made me think twice about using them for anything again.
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Yeah with that said they obviously didn't charge me a penny and I'm 99.9% sure my new driveline and 1350 yoke will be on the house...
He made it very clear he felt awful and wanted to make it right.
 
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