Noico 80 mil. And noico 150 mil red foam i also have a little kill mat and dynamat left over from other projects.
I put one in my K5, its great. If you put the seat a little bit too far forward when you build mounts you can fit a 40" tire in the back. I reworked the stock mounts so I can still fold and tumble the seat.I was absolutely not planning on doing this but for $30.50 + tax i figured why not...
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I'm thinking of copying merrick garages design and having the front hinge right even with the step up. Hope that gives me enough space to store a 40.I put one in my K5, its great. If you put the seat a little bit too far forward when you build mounts you can fit a 40" tire in the back. I reworked the stock mounts so I can still fold and tumble the seat.
Today's kids nap time progress.
Finished the roof, did one bedside and about half of the hump up front.
Yes overkill for this car. Just practicing/seeing the results before I take the time to do my nice truck
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@Chevman88Gonna put a headliner in?
I ditched the 3rd row brackets and made new ones using the blazer brackets and additional steel. I wanted a flat floor with the seat folded for loading gear. I sat in the seat a bunch to make sure the tilt was right. Its one of the reasons I tossed the 3rd row brackets and made my own.So those that have done the 3rd row seat upgrade, did you put your front and rear brackets at the same height? I ask because in the yukon the front bracket drops below the floor and the rear sits above the floor.
If it made front and rear the same it looks like it may lean back a lot. I'm going to use shock tabs and copy merricks current design
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Any pictures of what you did? Does it still tilt and everything?I ditched the 3rd row brackets and made new ones using the blazer brackets and additional steel. I wanted a flat floor with the seat folded for loading gear. I sat in the seat a bunch to make sure the tilt was right. Its one of the reasons I tossed the 3rd row brackets and made my own.
Getting dark out, I will try and get a few shots tomorrow. Yes, still folds and tilts forward. I unbolted the blazer latch from the back of the original seat. Unbolted all the latches from the new seat. Made a bar that bolted across the bottom of the new seat and welded the blazer latch to it. In the front I bolted another bar across the bottom of the new seat and added hinges to bolt it to the original blazer bolt holes.Any pictures of what you did? Does it still tilt and everything?
Little more progress today between meetings. This stuff is slow going but coming along. I started with the shitty spots first. Hoping the floors go fast.
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Here are my seat brackets.
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Stock Blazer latch, welded to a piece of square tube.
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Holes drilled to pass bolts through square tube into seat. Piece of large angle with some industrial hinges welded on. Bolts to stock holes in floor.
You have to unbolt the seat to remove it from the vehicle but with it folded the floor is flat, no brackets in the way of cargo.
Here are my seat brackets.
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Stock Blazer latch, welded to a piece of square tube.
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Holes drilled to pass bolts through square tube into seat. Piece of large angle with some industrial hinges welded on. Bolts to stock holes in floor.
You have to unbolt the seat to remove it from the vehicle but with it folded the floor is flat, no brackets in the way of cargo.
The front piece was some big angle, 4x4 I think. I cut a bunch away to lighten it up, left what was needed to bolt to the seat and weld to the hinge. You can see some steel welded to the hinge in the previous pic to make it longer to reach the bolt in the floor. This allows the seat to drop down forward past the rear floor when it folds up.I may hit you up for some measurements and pictures of the front of the front bracket with the seat down