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Please don't make me pay a professional (Engine mount removal)

garydan

garydan

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Port Saint Lucie, Fl.
Ok, so I decided to make a first attempt at removing my driver side engine mount to get to a leaking freeze plug.

I removed the through-bolt from the frame bracket, I raised the engine (a little more than slightly). I removed the three bolts on the bracket. Then I was stuck. I bought this ridiculous haynes manual that basically said the next step was to "detach the mount".

Well after removing the three bolts on the frame bracket (attached to the mount).. the mount would barely budge and I couldn't get it out. I raised the motor a little more and still couldn't get it out. I think I had the motor up too high.

Before I could do any real damage I put it all back together and took it for a drive to make sure I didn't break anything.

Where did I go wrong?
 
You must remove the through bolt, then you must lift the engine about 2-3" before you can remove the clamshell from the engine and off the engine mount which bolts to the frame.
 
4X4HIGH said:
You must remove the through bolt, then you must lift the engine about 2-3" before you can remove the clamshell from the engine and off the engine mount which bolts to the frame.
Click to expand...
And the rubber may have spread and may bind up after following these steps. A big screw driver or prybar is your friend. I have replaced motor mounts using exactly these steps, and aside from fighting the mount out of the motor bracket, it is fairly simple.
 
Hit it like a champ.

nc_gear_005.jpg
 
I would have recommended that, but there isn't much room to swing a hammer without hitting the oil pan.
 
Craftsman or well any one makes a uber long prybar that works like magic but like you said you just have to fight it.
 
lectric80 said:
And the rubber may have spread and may bind up after following these steps. A big screw driver or prybar is your friend. I have replaced motor mounts using exactly these steps, and aside from fighting the mount out of the motor bracket, it is fairly simple.
Click to expand...

This is where I must have gotten stuck. The rubber must have been holding it in. I want to put the mount back in, so I don't want to damage the mount. I have a pry bar, I'll try that tonight.
 
No need to remove both bolts (that would make it harder actually) it would be a good idea to remove the distributor cap though as it could hit the firewall and break the cap or distributor.

Also, if the rubber from the mount is holding you up because it is swelled out the mount is bad and needs to be replaced.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Also, if the rubber from the mount is holding you up because it is swelled out the mount is bad and needs to be replaced.
Click to expand...

Ok... I guess if I have to remove the mount I'd might as well get a new one in there. But that means I have to do the other side as well :doah:
 
If the engine mounts are supposed to look like this:

311-7-506-BL_1.jpg


Then yes, I have a "rubber" problem :eek1:

I think now that I see this picture I'm beginning to better understand the anatomy of an engine mount. The throughbolt goes through that hole in the picture above. I think tonight will be a better night in my attempts at removing the engine mount.
 
Those are urethane mounts that replace the rubber in your original mounts. If you use urethane you MUST use urethane on the t-case mount as well. Using two different types of mounts (urethane and rubber) is the easiest way to break a transmission case.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Those are urethane mounts that replace the rubber in your original mounts. If you use urethane you MUST use urethane on the t-case mount as well. Using two different types of mounts (urethane and rubber) is the easiest way to break a transmission case.
Click to expand...

Ok.. once you thought you got it... lol. I'm at work now, so I can't look at the truck right now to really understand what I saw last night.

Does the piece that I have to remove look like this:
1AEMT00019.jpg
 
Day two update. Still no luck. I definitely know what needs to be done, but I can't seem to get the engine off the frame enough to easily slide it out. The mount is loose, but I need about 1 more inch. The problem is that the jack on the oil pan (with a piece of wood to distribute the weight) is actually lifting the whole frame and not just the engine. :eek1:

My only other option I suppose would be to loosen the engine mount bolts on the other side??
 
Best thing to do is locate a friend with a cherry picker and use that to lift the engine. This will help to isolate the engine in the lifting and help prevent the frame from coming up with the lift. It is much harder to do it the way you are attempting, but it can be done, it just takes patience. Either way, I don't recommend attempting to remove both sides, it will make it much harder to get it all back together.
 
lectric80 said:
Best thing to do is locate a friend with a cherry picker and use that to lift the engine. This will help to isolate the engine in the lifting and help prevent the frame from coming up with the lift. It is much harder to do it the way you are attempting, but it can be done, it just takes patience. Either way, I don't recommend attempting to remove both sides, it will make it much harder to get it all back together.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what the difference would be. Whether I'm pushing the engine up or pulling it up, something must be hitting the frame. Maybe the 3rd time is the charm. (or 3 strikes and I'm at the local shop).
 
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