Polyurethane Vs. Rubber Suspension Bushings

[PWagon]

My '86 K5 steering is so sloppy that I have to be "try" to drive a straight line down the road. Changing lanes is no problem... I just hope I'm changing to the lane I choose. Okay, maybe I'm exaggerating some. Anyhow, I have all original steering components (rubber bushings, tie rod ends, etc). All I can afford to do right now is to replace the bushings and all tie rod ends (changing leaf springs will have to wait). The question is, do I go back with rubber or do I switch to polyurethane bushings that everyone is talking about? What's the benefit of poly over rubber? I miss a tight steering wheel, and would think that poly might help take out the "give" in the steering. I'd appreciate any suggestions or comments on this topic.

 

[72blazerguy]

I doubt that body mounts (as shown) are the cause for wandering steering. You need to look at the leaf spring bushings, upper shackle bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, and see if those are worn.

 

[Richcz28]

If your steering wheel doesn't feel tight you may want to look into a new rag joint or an xj shaft.

 

[rebelgregory]

Also check for frame crack at steering box. If its good, then I'd recommend an Ord bolt in brace. One of those and an xj shaft can work wonders.

 

[ktmoutfront]

If you can only afford some of the fix, start with what is worse or most dangerous. Get under the truck and have someone turn the steering wheel lock to lock. Watch what moves. Replace what moves the most.

 

[dyeager535]

Sticking strictly with suspension stuff, theoretically rubber will ride better, poly will last longer. Most of the GM rubber mounts last 20+ years, but if abused, I'm sure the rubber will fail much sooner.

FWIW, any GM stuff you can still get (in terms of rubber) will cost more than polyurethane.

 

[Greg72]

The very first "mod" I ever did to my Blazer was replacing the two worn tierod ends.... that single change got rid of a huge "numb spot" in the center of the steering wheel and made it WAY easier to drive down the highway.

Assume all of the bushings are dry-rotted and ruined at this point. As mentioned, have someone turn the wheel in a parking lot while you look for obvious issues with parts deflecting or spitting out sideways.

Triage the worst parts first and continue until the money runs out.

-G

 

[AR_K5]

Sometimes tightening the slack adjuster (or whatever it's called) on the top of the gear box a bit can help a whole lot too.

If rubber spring bushings were as bad as some of the internet people try to claim GM wouldn't have used them.

 

[Greg72]

Sometimes tightening the slack adjuster (or whatever it's called) on the top of the gear box a bit can help a whole lot too.

Be careful messing with that. It's not a cure-all for sloppy steering and guys who loosen that jam nut and crank-down on that adjuster usually cause more problems than they solve....

Just saying. The issues with sloppy steering are usually much more obvious than the worm gear backlash adjuster. Start with the usual suspects (ball joints, spring bushings, tie rod ends) first.

-G

 

[AR_K5]

Be careful messing with that. It's not a cure-all for sloppy steering and guys who loosen that jam nut and crank-down on that adjuster usually cause more problems than they solve....

Just saying. The issues with sloppy steering are usually much more obvious than the worm gear backlash adjuster. Start with the usual suspects (ball joints, spring bushings, tie rod ends) first.

-G

I'll second that, I was just throwing it out as another possibile location where excesive play can sometimes be found. As with anything, improper adjustment can cause problems.

 

[ryoken]

I've found the majority of GM steering wandering issues to either be a sloppy rag joint (getting the xj shaft in there should be on everyone's "to do" list), DLE or TRE prob's most of the time...

that's assuming tires and alignment are ok...

 

[xenomarine]

I've been neglecting to do the xj shaft for way too long, my rag joint is still in great shape but I'd rather have u joints. Is there any specific write-up that gives years they came out of and useful tips?

 

[AR_K5]

I've been neglecting to do the xj shaft for way too long, my rag joint is still in great shape but I'd rather have u joints. Is there any specific write-up that gives years they came out of and useful tips?

1984-1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ or Commanche (not Grand Cherokee or Classic)

I've pulled and sold a half dozen or so in the past few months. I need to make a good how to video on getting rid of the anti-collapse pieces on the inside. There is no need to yank on them like the guy in the current YouTube video. (Unless it's really rusted)

Just clamp it vertically in a vise, heat the middle until you see movement and simply pull them apart, clean it up, add some grease, and your done.

If you don't want to grind a spot on your steering column for the bolt, get a longer skinnier bolt to clear the threads and put it on.