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POR-15 or paint

I'm partial to Imron paint. If its good enough for the noses and leading edges of airliner wings, that's good enough for me. Also, it is (in my experience) impervious to hot brake fluid, tranny fluid, gas etc.Used to sell it back in the 80's, had a piece of alum foil painted with it. You could crumple it up in your hand, then flatten it back out and the paint would not flake off. Its not cheap, but I think it is worth the investment.
 
por15 works very well. i am not a big fan of painting over rust though. i wire wheeled and sandblasted, no rust on frame 3 years.
 
3 on the tree said:
I'm partial to Imron paint. If its good enough for the noses and leading edges of airliner wings, that's good enough for me. Also, it is (in my experience) impervious to hot brake fluid, tranny fluid, gas etc.Used to sell it back in the 80's, had a piece of alum foil painted with it. You could crumple it up in your hand, then flatten it back out and the paint would not flake off. Its not cheap, but I think it is worth the investment.


whats amazing about Imron, is its one of the original urethanes.. its what we used to spray on the whole fleet at the concrete plant 20 yrs ago.. its also one of few paints used in the boating industry these days... highend Hateras's use Imron... i spray it weekly to this day... amazing that old technology is still relevent today.. still one of the toughest urethanes out there and an excellent choice for a chassis paint...
 
I love the stuff. I've done my axles, frame, and all kinds of stuff with it and durable doesn't even begin to describe it. I accidently overpainted the area of my frame that I wanted to weld in the steering box bracket onto. I tried all kinds of paint remover, a wire brush, etc. to get it off but finally had to resort to a grinding wheel to get back to bare metal to weld on. I also did the inside of one of my 74's with it and repaired some small holes in the door channel with POR-15 mesh and paint. Lots of pics here: http://community.webshots.com/user/douglasgrant
 
so what would be the better alternative? i dont know much about undercoating and epoxies and stuff. what products would you recomend?
 
I did the tailgate of a Bronco I used to have with Herculiner. That stuff was also really strong and wore really well on the tailgate taking a heck of a beating. I threw some into my wheel wells as an undercoating and it didn't like plastic at all, flaking off where it flexed. But, where I put it on metal, it was very durable. I'd consider Herculiner for an undercoating on metal parts.
 
well... it appears as though the overwhelming choice is POR-15

since the frame is pretty much bare steel I am thinking I will clean it with some brake cleaner then set it out in the rain for a couple of days to see if I can get some flash-rust on it then do the metal ready and POR.

That should get it about as ready as anything.

I still think a good etching primer and a good epoxy paint would do well, but thats why I asked the question. Since most of you have experience with this stuff, you should know... right?
 
...I didn't bother to read the thread, but I don't know why you "need" POR-15 if the frame isn't all rusty and whatnot :dunno: Granted I don't know a lot about this, but I would think a good primer and epoxy paint would be just fine.
 
Topdown said:
well... it appears as though the overwhelming choice is POR-15

since the frame is pretty much bare steel I am thinking I will clean it with some brake cleaner then set it out in the rain for a couple of days to see if I can get some flash-rust on it then do the metal ready and POR.

That should get it about as ready as anything.

I still think a good etching primer and a good epoxy paint would do well, but thats why I asked the question. Since most of you have experience with this stuff, you should know... right?
NONONONONO, Use the por primer on the bare metal then the top coat.
 
I sandblasted my frame and used the DuPont colorar expoxt primer and dupont Imron over that. That was three years,but my project still isn't done (read baby), but it still looks new.
I used to work at a place that did some testing for auto companies, I had them throw a sample piece of metal with three strips painted, one with my setup, another with por-15, and another bare metal into the 500 hour salt spray booth.
The Imron lasted the best after a quick wipe of the rag, it still looked brand new, the por-15 started to flake a bit (I brushed it over bare metal) and the bare metal, was of course nasty rusted.
I can ding the Imron with a hammer and it holds up, a gouge from a screwdriver will scratch it though, the por-15 held up better to that test..
Imron is nasty stuff to spray though, make sure you wear a quality organic respirator. If that stuff sets up in your lungs, and your done for.
 
I used POR-15

I like it, it goes on like a stain and dries like steel
Here is my hood I painted
P1010011.jpg

I would use it again for sure. A lil goes a long way too.
 
get any flaky rust off with a wire wheel, then use a thing called jasco from home depot, it neutralizes the rust and you can see it work, it turns the rust black.
 
I'm still in the planning stages (read: marriage, fixer-upper house, two kids, all-consuming job, etc.), so I don't have first-hand experience with the stuff, but AutoRestorer Magazine recently did a head-to-head on POR-15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. Eastwood's product was easier to apply, left a better finish, protected the metal better, and was cheaper. The reviewer practically apologizes for sounding like an Eastwood ad. In fact, Eastwood has the full text of the article on their site: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852 (or just click "Rust Treatment" from their homepage and click the link to the article.)

When I actually start my resto, hopefully there'll be more than a pile of rust where a mostly stock '72 K/5 used to be and I'll probably be using Rust Encapsulator.

I don't mean to step on the toes of any die-hard POR-15 fans, just adding some info to the mix.
 
Imron

My dad used clear Imron to finish gunstocks. That stuff is nearly bulletproof (pun intended) and it left the clearest, dive-right-into-the-wood beautiful coatings, but as 73k5blazer mentions, it is some nasty stuff for the do-it-yourselfer to work with. I'm sure that here in the Peoples Republic of California, if it's even legal, you'll probably have to leave a DNA sample with the Bureau of Driving Manufacturing out of California if you want to buy a quart. Hell, I'm surprised it's still legal to fart without a license in this state.

OK. I'll step off the soapbox now...

As 3 on the tree mentioned, airlines clad their aircraft in Imron so it has got to be some tough stuff. Though the Boeings and Airbuses are made of aluminum and composites, so I'd want to find out more about Imron's behavior with iron oxide before I used to cover my GM steel.
 
Corsair

Thanks!

I wondered if anyone would notice and it took less than a day.

My avatar pic is Bob Odegaard's #57, an F2G-1 Super Corsair (with the bubble canopy and the monster R-4360 engine) that he and his crew lovingly restored to flying condition. I look to Odegaard and his resurrection of the old beast for inspiration.

Speaking of old beasts, my '72 Blazer has been in the family for 33 years now. We have pictures of me in diapers "helping" my dad work on her. She even managed to endure the abuse of a stupid, 16-year-old me. She's in pretty sad shape now and I politely turn away offers every three months or so from kids who want to chop her up and slam her into the weeds.

She'll never fly, but I'm determined to make her beautiful one day.
 
OK HERE'S MY 2CENTS. THE POR 15 IS GREAT STUFF BUT IF IT'S OUT IN THE ELEMENTS IT BREAKS DOWN . DONT THINK IT'S UV PROOF. I'VE HAD TO REDO SOME AREAS WHERE IT WAS EXPOSED THEN PAINT OVER IT. IT HAS DONE A BITCHEN JOB ON THE INSIDE OF MY ROCKER BOXES WITH NO PAINT AS THOSE ARE SEMI SEALED. THEY MAKE SEVERAL VERSTIONS OF THE STUFF SO CHECK OUT THEIR WEB SITE.:):hack::weld::grind:MY 69
 
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