What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

por15 or rust bullet

por15 or rust bullet

  • Total voters
    23
These are all just variations of "moisture cured polyurethane paint." Google that & see what you get. There are lots of industrial applications, and paints to go with.

Acid dip, find some local (real) hot rodders. They'll likely know who and where to get either a media blast or an acid dip. Acid dip is used in some castings processes as a way to remove core material.
 
jpdrake said:
i wouldnt evern know where to start to look for someone who would acid dip..?
Click to expand...

Try Metal Strip of New England in Worcester, MA. They were the only ones that came up in a oogle search but there my be others.

Acid dipping is done by soaking the metal parts in a vat of warm phospheric acid. The metal comes out lloking like new steel and the acid gets into very tight places that even media blasting can miss. The only downside is that the metal will flash rust if it is not kept dry until painted so plan to go straight from the dipper to your shop and get to work painting right away. Acid dipping is more expensive then media blasting, but I think looks better when finished and gets all the rust out of the nooks and crannys that blasting misses.
 
on that chassiss saver do you have to get the aluminum stuff or can you just get the gloss black? like is it a 2 step process? i was wanting to just paint over all the rusto n my frame it would take me forever to sand it all down.
 
You dont need the aluminum stuff. The black kind is fine. Thats what I did my frame with. Its not a two stage process. I've found that a foam brush is the best way to apply it. I topcoated my frame with some rustolum semigloss black after the chassis saver because I'm not running a bed and the chassis saver isn't very UV resistant and the color will fade if its in the sun a lot. Even if it fades it still doesn't lose its rust resistant properties. You are just going to want to use a wire brush on your frame to try to get all the lose scale off and then degrease the frame to get all the grime off.
 
mrdrinksalil said:
You dont need the aluminum stuff. The black kind is fine. Thats what I did my frame with. Its not a two stage process. I've found that a foam brush is the best way to apply it. I topcoated my frame with some rustolum semigloss black after the chassis saver because I'm not running a bed and the chassis saver isn't very UV resistant and the color will fade if its in the sun a lot. Even if it fades it still doesn't lose its rust resistant properties. You are just going to want to use a wire brush on your frame to try to get all the lose scale off and then degrease the frame to get all the grime off.
Click to expand...
how much (quart or gallon) did you need to do your frame in???
 
If you use a foam brush you will use a lot less than if you spray it (when you spray, so much gets wasted). But I can't remember how much I used. It was NO more than 2 quarts though.
 
mrdrinksalil said:
If you use a foam brush you will use a lot less than if you spray it (when you spray, so much gets wasted). But I can't remember how much I used. It was NO more than 2 quarts though.
Click to expand...
im glad you told me that i was gonna order a whole gallon...they say it only is good after 3 months so if you dont use it its no good..
 
I've let it sit longer than 3 months and it was fine. Ive got a quart of aluminum in the garage right now. You gotta be sure to seal it well though or pour the extra into a new can and seal it.
 
MISF has found that it stores longer when kept in the fridge/kegerator.
Put Saran Wrap btwn the lid & the can. Otherwise the paint can glue the lid shut.
 
POR-15 is overpriced and over-hyped. If you can take an entire piece and cover it everywhere, and be really meticulous about the surface prep, it makes a pretty durable finish.

If you just cover a portion of something, it is worthless because the moisture/rust creeps underneath. You can go back later (1 year?) and peel the entire piece of POR off at once to find the crusty stuff underneath. So it's pretty much worthless for small-scale body work.

Also, their Blackcoat top coat does not work. It peels off in a couple of months. I have tried varying the time between POR and blackcoat, sanding or not sanding and I've never had success. Also, the POR-15 looks good with brush application. The Blackcoat does not. It does look decent with a high-density roller, though. I am curious if anybody has experience with their "tie-coat" primer and a conventional topcoat paint.


I haven't been using Rust Bullet for as long, but I can tell you that it's easier and quicker to use and so far I have seen no signs of it coming back off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom