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PROBLEM!!! W/Vent Tube Front 10 Bolt!!!

az88k5

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I have a Corporate GM 10 Bolt front. I noticed that the vent tube fitting was hanging with the hose and was not connected to the front differential. I found out that the vent tube is pressed in the differential from the Factory. What's the best way to fix this problem. A:retap the diff to fit a new hose fitting? or B:try to press the old vent tube (witch looks good still) back in somehow? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Drill it out and tap it to 1/4 NPT. Then get a fitting from the parts store and put a hose on it and be done.
 
I would use JB weld to put it back on. You will need to be careful if you drill it out and then tap it because you might get metal shavings down inside your differential. Or you could use this opportunity to change the front diff oil and make more of a permanant job.
 
I allready pulled the front diff cover so metal shavings won't be a problem. If I tap it. JB weld is also a good idea. Then I can use the old original tube fitting. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
I vote for tapping it. Tape/hold a magnet against the hole while you drill/tap and the shavings won't be such an issue.
 
when i did mine i loaded up the tap with grease and it held all the metal shavings, i drained tha fluid later with no metal in it so i guess it worked /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
I wouldn't be worried about a couple shavings from the tapping operation but I'd clean it out anyway.
 
May not have to drill it. A lot of those vent tube holes are close to being the pilot hole size for 1/8NPT Might check that first.
 
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May not have to drill it. A lot of those vent tube holes are close to being the pilot hole size for 1/8NPT Might check that first.

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1/8 NPT is pretty small (around 1/4")
 
Isn't NPT pipe fitting threads tapered? I would think that tapered threads wouldn't work very well. G or BSP threaded pipe fittings are straight threads not tapered. Don't you think this would be the way to go if using nomal taps that are stright not tapered.
I think I might just press and JB weld the original one back in the best I can. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Since you have already pulled the diff cover, get yourself a 1/8" NPT pipe tap and tap the hole for a 1/8" pipe nipple, You don't want to use a straight tap because you want the threads to seal up. A straight tap won't let you do that. Also, 1/8" is PLENTY big for an air vent. The front diffs don't build any pressure, and heat really isn't an issue either. I had the EXACT same thing happen to me a few weeks ago. I tapped the hole with a 1/8" NPT tap (no drilling req'd) threaded in a 1/8" x 1" long pipe nipple, and then clamped a new hose onto it. I used a clear heavy duty tube and looped it to create a kind of catch (kind of like a drain trap for a sink). That way, if anything does manage to get in there, I "should" be able to see it and drain it out before it gets into my diff. It cost me about $3 to fix it that way. Much better than JB Weld IMO.
 
The existing hole is the right size (at least it was on my 14ff and D44) to tap with a 1/8NPT tap. I put some grease on the tap to keep most of the shavings from getting into the housing.
 
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