CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Project Burt - he needs some lovin'

Yep, same thing around here. People call us "flatlanders" haha, it has its ups and downs. Now Im just looking for a winter project, so Im trolling around for ideas that wont break the bank. And yea I feel ya on the driveshafts, I blew my front one off last winter and wiped out the tranny pan, and still cant justify a new one yet. I was quoted at 500$ish for a high angle long slip. I was like :eek1:
 
That's how my 241 got trashed in the first place. I'm just going to have my buddy weld me up another extended stocker for now just to get me through winter.

and yeah, custom shafts from reputable places are quite pricey. mine was right around that order, and man did it hurt.
but, my buddy charges $50 for a stock modified driveshaft, his materials. it's not balanced, but it's balanced enough that with the hubs locked, can't feel any vibes until 50mph. and runs fine up to 90......for a while.
 
Last edited:
welp, since i've been too 'distracted' from my build by school, putting in a wood stove and support beams in my garage, i'm going to make a running list of things i need to accomplish. i'll try to check off a couple each week, i figure if i don't get something done i'll be looking pretty slow, and no one wants that.

here we go:
order locking hubs - DONE
install spartan locker - DONE
swap input shaft on 205 - DONE
install said 205 - DONE
cut a new shifter hole and probably relocate center console back - DONE
add power steering cooler - DONE
hook up power steering and fix/replace belts - DONE
order driveshafts - DONE
order interior floor mat/seat covers - DONE

talk to Jesse about paint - GONNA BEDLINE THE BITCH!
see if i can fit the damn thing in my garage anymore!(also clean the garage) - YEAH RIGHT
get shock tabs welded on the axles - HALF DONE
pull the interior and get all stereo wiring run - HALF DONE
paint underside of the floors/oil coating
order winch cable and mount winch
shock inboarding kit/measure for rear shocks - HALF DONE, STILL NEED SHOCKS
reattach rearview mirror

any suggestions as to what i should do with the floor? it's very very scaly. i was thinking wire wheel to get the big stuff off and some type of convertor/encapsulator. what are the brotherhood's thoughts for rust prevention? at this point i'm thinking a nice layer of oil.
 
Last edited:
it's been a while since i updated this puppy. updated my list above, and the ole girl is actually coming along at a decent pace despite my best efforts. i cracked the planetary in the trans - it was an upgraded one with 5 pinions out of a 4L70. the trans guy gave me this look like, are you ****ing insane? how could you do this so fast?

i also bought a 1350 cv driveshaft on craigslist for $125, but broke even on it since i got it rebuilt and retubed - and the splines were shot. got about $125 of usable parts out of it, so it really cost me the drive to get it. also got a 1350 front shaft made, should be picking that up today or tomorrow, along with a 1350 yoke for the 60.

i ordered the nice floor mats from LMC and put those in, i'll have to find some pictures of it but they look so damn good compared to my ratty old rubber mats that would tear in a light breeze from being so damn old. also redid my stereo wiring, ditching the dual subs for a single kicker L5 with a 1000 watt amp. then i'll have room for a small tool box next to it - and both will be bolted down. i'm notorious for getting the tires off the ground and generally tossing about everything in my interior so that's a must. my sub box which weighs over 100 pounds has been found on its side, wires ripped out of it after some crap i do.

oh yeah, and the twin sticked np205 is in. can't wait to do locked FWD burnouts to piss off ricers.
 
Edit, I forgot to add a picture of the truck itself. Moved the rear axle back by flipping my springs around. Need to move it forward a hair, and I have the perfect solution to do so. I'll add more details when I get the truck back, if I remember to do so.

e8ypypyv.jpg
Pics pad

uploadfromtaptalk1365603042870.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1365603061433.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1365603073017.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1365603117150.jpg
 
Glad to see some new updates man! :waytogo:

I really enjoyed reading through the project. Whew, I wasn't kidding when I said my k10 build is gonna have lots of similarities to yours, at least I am now anticipating a big hassle ahead of me seeing all the trouble you've been through. Nobody ever said anything worth doing is easy anyway right!?

Didn't realize you were going to do the doubler, or I might have missed that. I thought you said no real major need for it without rock-crawling? :dunno:

Will be curious to see how that driveshaft works out for you too, and if you are out of the woods on clearance issues.

Very cool ride! Make sure to keep posting your progress, you've got talent!
 
No doubler, my transfer case is twin sticked so I can have fwd or rwd or both in any gear range available. Yeah it's been a long ride to get to this point, and it's been filled with many memories, no matter how maddening or knuckle-shattering. :rolleyes:

Learn from my mistakes. Make a plan and stick to it, and don't shift from forward to reverse at 4500.
 
Blazer looks good. I was picturing something different for sure, especially after the 100 lbs. + sub box post. :haha: Keep it up. We need to see some pics of it in action soon.
 
Blazer looks good. I was picturing something different for sure, especially after the 100 lbs. + sub box post. :haha: Keep it up. We need to see some pics of it in action soon.

Haha yeah it took me a while to really need only one sub, the truck is a fun driving truck and good tunes only make it better. Plus it doubles as a boom box next to bonfires. :D

It's going to be a while before it's really in action, 3 weeks of school left then I can tear into the thing. Shooting for a completion date of May 25, my birthday
 
So, I broke something again. Problem is I don't know what. it started after a night of light wheeling. Rough trails to get to the fire pit where everyone was hanging out, nothing i needed to put it in 4wd for. After that, I did a hill climb - walked right up it in low with almost no tire spin.

So, this kid I know with a 4 door jeep on 35's says he did it in reverse. So I channel my Barney Stinson and say, "Challenge Accepted." I made it up the hill no problem, it as bouncy and i self-clearanced a couple fenders with the TSL's. Not surprised for soft springs and no actual trimming done as of yet.

After that, my buddy with a k20 on one tons and 39.5x18 boggers decides he's going to try a mud pit we call Florida. It's deep, about 50-60 feet to the other side, and the last kid that tried to cross it was in a stock v8 AWD grand cherokee (i think it's a wj?). He bombed down the hill at about 30 and launched, LAUNCHED the thing into the mud and landed nose first.

But back to the main point. That night I was the recovery vehicle. I had to yank my friend out 4 or 5 times as he's not a quitter - once i yanked so hard on my d ring so hard I spun the truck 45 degrees in place when the strap pulled taut.

So, now when i put the truck in reverse it 'bucks'. It seems more like a sputter, and only when i give it some throttle. Idling back is no problem, it just rolls with the little force getting put to the wheels. This in 2hi. 2low seems to be perfectly fine - powers through it and will spin the tires. that's how I need to back it into any spot which requires me to turn the wheels a decent amount and therefore bind up the rolling action of the vehicle.

I was testing this out on dirt and pavement and it will not do it in forward gears, loaded up or not. If I give it too much pedal it'll stutter a few times then backfire and die most of the time it seems. It also seems to only happen in rwd, as I tried to test it out in fwd and couldn't see any problems except that the spartan locker is TERRIFYING to drive on the pavement in fwd.

Also my detroit is probably busted. Burnouts in dirt while testing made a big pile behind the driver's tire and barely anything behind pass. tire. confirmed by doing a burnout in the street and had my buddy watch the tires - one would spin, then the other, and back and forth kind of like the locker that's in my dad's 2008 gmc (g80?).

Could a busted detroit cause the reverse stuttering symptoms? I just had the trans rebuilt after I broke it in that big ass snow storm the northeast got whacked with. the detroit has only been driven on since august, so it failing is kind of a surprise. I don't even know where to start.

OH, and I was romping on it after the wheeling trip the next day keeping up with my buddy in his cummins and it backfired at speed - scared the hell out of me. I think the culprit was a cracked vacuum cap. I replaced that and couldn't get it to backfire when driving in the same conditions, but would still backfire through the exhaust while loading up in reverse.

That's a whole lot of info I just slapped together in one go so if you need any clarification just ask. I can also get a video of the symptoms if that's necessary. Please help me figure out what I broke this time so I can fix it.
 
Sounds like a good time was had by all.

I'm gonna say it's something with the transmission. Have you pulled the dipstick out yet? Does the fluid smell burnt? Try dropping the pan and draining the trans. Look for burnt fluid and metal pieces in the pan. Just because the fluid got burnt doesn't mean it's the end of your tranny. I burnt the fluid in my 700R4 while wheeling and it didn't die for another 3 years. Change the filter while you're at it. When you take the old filter out, check to see if the plastic o-ring comes out on the neck of the old filter. If the o-ring stays up in the tube, just take the o-ring off the new one. If you put the new filter on there with the new o-ring and the old one is still up in the tube, your tranny will suck air.

Or it could just be low fluid. The fluid was low in my 700R4 (before I ditched it) and it would do like you're talking about. Only in reverse too. The forward gears were fine.

Check your tranny fluid level and make sure the fluid is light pink. Add some if needed, and if it's dark colored, drain and replace the fluid. I bet that will cure your problem.
 
I would remove the rear diff cover and check out everything in there too. Hopefully you can get the Detriot replaced under warranty. They do go bad occasionly, but if it's broken after a only a few months, I would say it was installed incorrectly. Sorry.

Another long shot would be the transfer case, but it doesn't sound like it. I've broken them before too and that's not usually how they act when they break.
 
Going straight, that Detroit should burn both tires every time, no matter what. And you could possibly have another vac leak somewhere. I would check simple things first, vac leaks and so on before you dive into carb adjustments. They USUALLY dont un adjust themselves overnight. Now, it could have something in it from sitting, dirt, varnish, ect. If it has been sitting without being started with old gas and such that could very well be the problem.

But it sounds like the rear end is kaput. As far as the Detroit goes anyways. Drop that cover ASAP and see whats the what what.
 
Going to pull the cover probably tonight. The trans is only 2 weeks old since the second rebuild, and has a monster sized cooler on it. Haven't checked the fluid but it would make sense it's the trans. I'll check the fluid. I beat on this truck hard, like I do most everything else. Surprisingly I was nice to it this time out. Didn't do anything really stupid that I can recall and I was stone sober.
 
I definately don't think you should drive it again until you take that rear diff cover off and see what's up. You don't want the rearend locking up while you're going down the road or anything. I don't really think that would ever happen, but getting it fixed now could save you some money through prevention.

As far as the backfiring, how new is your exhaust system? Mine used to backfire sometimes until I replace the old manifold and mufflers and cats and stuff.
 
I pulled the cover and the gears look immaculate. A couple pictures from my phone and I'll write up more when I'm at a computer.

EDIT: okay so ck5 isn't working on my computer for some reason. The pictures are of the magnet after I wiped some gear oil away with my finger. I figure I'll have to pull the carrier, and check out the Detroit. Don't they sell rebuild kits for these babies? Maybe I can find someone with spare parts left over from a break.

There were no large chunks, just shavings and stuff on the magnet. Nothing that looked any bigger than the head of a pin. I'm thinking I stripped the cam teeth crap inside there, the thing that lets it freewheel.

uploadfromtaptalk1367422118581.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1367422129673.jpg
 
Oh I almost forgot to add, the exhaust is only a couple years old. No holes, no leaks as far as I can tell with the exception of a pinhole at the collector of the passenger header. It was caused when my front driveshaft blew up and took out the exhaust which has since been fixed. Just replaced the collector gaskets and no detectable leaks. Plenty of pressure, if I put my hand against the exhaust tip it gets pushed away. I'm going to go through and replace all my remaining vacuum lines with new stuff. Which isn't really much.
 
If new vacuum lines doesn't fix it, I guess the carb is running too lean? Maybe you could pull a couple of your plugs and see if they're white or whatever.
 
I was actually going to have the carb rebuilt and tuned for the truck as I haven't worked with any carbs yet and my friends can't adjust them for crap either.
 
Top Bottom