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Protecting new diy4x bumper?

Blue85 said:
That's why POR-15 sells "Blackcoat" and that is what peeled off. Their products are 10% technology and 90% marketing.

If degreaser and then Rustoleum primer over fresh raw steel isn't good prep, then what am I supposed to do? (This was actually on my rock sliders, not my bumper, but what's the difference?)
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This is true. I guess my line of thinking is, if a rattle can paint job can last a few years, it should last on a bumper too. Minus dings and scraps, it being a bumper and all. Being winter right now, surface prep and primer is half the work, applying the paint and letting it dry in the proper temperature and relative humidity is also important. I just painted my shock mount, and battery tray, only prep work I did was remove the loose rust, and wash it. 2 coats of rust reformer, 2 coats of gloss black enamel. 40 degrees outside and rainy (Washington). So I'll see how it goes.
 
catalyzed vs non-catalyzed.... zinc vs enamel... encapsulator vs converter... etc vs yada...


there's the right way to do things, there's ultimate hack ways, and a ton of misinformed stuff inbetween...
 
there is so much to "painting" that people ignore or just dont want to bother with. i personally wouldnt put rustoleum on anything more then making a sign with it that says FREE... ever see what oil or gas does to it? i recommended wax because it will help buck the uv exposure for a long time over your rattle can. if you dont care about your bumper turning into a giant ball of rust that will take a lot of effort to paint over in the future then dont worry if you wanna seal it up and be able to repaint later do some homework and prep it right.
 
i try to keep a middle of the road approach around here these days... it'd be super easy for me to rail on anyone not using a catalyzed paint and proper primers as not doing it the right way...

thing is.. there are soooooooooooooo many people that think they know what's right or what their doing, and i just cringe and try to keep my mouth shut... try.... the intraweb has expounded that to stupid amounts of misinformation and rumor...

back in the day... if you came up to me and said "I'm rolling my truck with tractor paint"... my first line would be "your kidding right?" reminds me of when i lived next to the ghetto... about as hack as ya get..

now, it's "have at it, let me know how it turns out"... when in reality, i already know the answers and it's abilities.. it's a non-catalyzed enamel... but it has the word tractor in it, so people correlate that in their brain with being tough.. human nature....

i wont even get going on the miracle cure products... POR, RB, goat jizz, rolling and tipping enamel, etc...
 
It's body protection. If you're not actually planning on dragging it on anything then have it Powdercoated or bedlinered. If you are going to drag/bump it on stuff then just rattle can it and call it good. Easy touch up.

If you live in the salt belt and want to wheel with it...you're screwed.

My DIY rock sliders are Rhino Lined but they see more duty as steps and door denters than anything else. If I was actually planning on nerfing off of trees/rocks I'd have gone another route.
P.S. Many of the spray in bedliners are UV stable.
 
I am surprised no one mentioned getting it chromed. Is that just too crazy, weak or expensive or something?
 
Have DIY4x4 build it out of stainless. Problem solved.
 
I work for a steel company and stainess would probably cost you about 2500-3000 for the bumper. That's quite a bit more than I paid for my ride!!
 
I hear it glows. BONUS! No need for extra lights!
 
destro360 said:
STAINLESS FTW hahaha
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Wonder why stainless steel body never caught on. John Delorean was a genius. Oh wait, auto manufacturers want your truck to rot out so you buy another one. :rolleyes: Is there stainless steel plating? Wonder what a zinc-chromate plated bumper would look like. Or a parkerized bumper. Gun-finished bumper would be pimp. Go wheeling, come back hose off your bumper, and rub some Rem Oil on it. :D
 
polish the steel to a mirror finish and do a powder clear over top. then you can start camp fires off the reflection of your bumper and when the clear gets scratched you can pull it off in large strips to chew on:waytogo:
 
Use transparent aluminum - allows the neons and rock lights to shine through. You know it's strong enough because it can hold whales on your spaceship. Hard to see it to weld, I imagine, but easy to inspect the welds for porosity.
 
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