Cross your fingers and hope it does not snap while pulling the stud because if it does, then you will be installing a screw in stud, due to the fact that you will have to drill out whats left of the stud.
CK5
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Pulled the Valve Covers.. FOUND THE PROBLEM *EDIT: stud replaced*
- Thread starter 78Suburban
- Start date
Cross your fingers and hope it does not snap while pulling the stud because if it does, then you will be installing a screw in stud, due to the fact that you will have to drill out whats left of the stud.
Rocker studs...eech...
I have had several chevy V8 motors with bad rocker arms,bent pushrods,and sawed studs..yes,seen a few pushrods drill right thru the rocker arms too!..lack of oil to the top end due to sludge is usually the cause..
My 400 SB had the "sawed studs syndrome" on the #8 cylinder..I replaced the rocker arm and ball,and the pushrod,but opted to leave the sawed stud intact,and hope for the best,since it would be a hoar to drill it out in that location if it snapped off during removal.(being the closest cylinder to the firewall and heater box
)....it went 12,000 miles with no troubles,but I always wondered where I'd be if and when it broke!..I was tempted to use roller rockers,which dont slide on the studs,but they cost too much for a plow truck!..
I'd use the screw in studs Dorman makes to replace pressed in ones that require no machining of the stud boss in the head..I'd fear simply hammering in a .003 oversized stud without reaming the boss would crack the boss or head like a log spitting wedge..that would suck!(and it likely would,since the original stud hasn't "pulled out" already) ..and the press in stud is likely to come "un-pressed" a short time later..
Go to an automotive machine shop that does head work..they will likely have a stock of those screw in studs,and will sell you only one or two--regular parts stores balk at having to buy a full box of anything"slow moving",and selling only a few,leaving the rest to rot on the shelf..they will usually only order and sell full boxes..
I'd use a torch to heat up the stud boss in the head before attempting to pull it out with the nut and washers trick..I've had them snap even with the head heated up real good!..a friend of mine decided to use a mig welder to fill in the groove cut in a few studs on a customers car,and filed them smooth,using a magnet and grease to keep the filings out of the engine as much as possible..I cringed,but it worked ..car still running today 3 years later...
I have had several chevy V8 motors with bad rocker arms,bent pushrods,and sawed studs..yes,seen a few pushrods drill right thru the rocker arms too!..lack of oil to the top end due to sludge is usually the cause..
My 400 SB had the "sawed studs syndrome" on the #8 cylinder..I replaced the rocker arm and ball,and the pushrod,but opted to leave the sawed stud intact,and hope for the best,since it would be a hoar to drill it out in that location if it snapped off during removal.(being the closest cylinder to the firewall and heater box
)....it went 12,000 miles with no troubles,but I always wondered where I'd be if and when it broke!..I was tempted to use roller rockers,which dont slide on the studs,but they cost too much for a plow truck!..I'd use the screw in studs Dorman makes to replace pressed in ones that require no machining of the stud boss in the head..I'd fear simply hammering in a .003 oversized stud without reaming the boss would crack the boss or head like a log spitting wedge..that would suck!
(and it likely would,since the original stud hasn't "pulled out" already) ..and the press in stud is likely to come "un-pressed" a short time later..Go to an automotive machine shop that does head work..they will likely have a stock of those screw in studs,and will sell you only one or two--regular parts stores balk at having to buy a full box of anything"slow moving",and selling only a few,leaving the rest to rot on the shelf..they will usually only order and sell full boxes..
I'd use a torch to heat up the stud boss in the head before attempting to pull it out with the nut and washers trick..I've had them snap even with the head heated up real good!..a friend of mine decided to use a mig welder to fill in the groove cut in a few studs on a customers car,and filed them smooth,using a magnet and grease to keep the filings out of the engine as much as possible..I cringed,but it worked ..car still running today 3 years later...
I have had several chevy V8 motors with bad rocker arms,bent pushrods,and sawed studs..yes,seen a few pushrods drill right thru the rocker arms too!..lack of oil to the top end due to sludge is usually the cause..
My 400 SB had the "sawed studs syndrome" on the #8 cylinder..I replaced the rocker arm and ball,and the pushrod,but opted to leave the sawed stud intact,and hope for the best,since it would be a hoar to drill it out in that location if it snapped off during removal.(being the closest cylinder to the firewall and heater box
I'd use the screw in studs Dorman makes to replace pressed in ones that require no machining of the stud boss in the head..I'd fear simply hammering in a .003 oversized stud without reaming the boss would crack the boss or head like a log spitting wedge..that would suck!
Go to an automotive machine shop that does head work..they will likely have a stock of those screw in studs,and will sell you only one or two--regular parts stores balk at having to buy a full box of anything"slow moving",and selling only a few,leaving the rest to rot on the shelf..they will usually only order and sell full boxes..
I'd use a torch to heat up the stud boss in the head before attempting to pull it out with the nut and washers trick..I've had them snap even with the head heated up real good!..a friend of mine decided to use a mig welder to fill in the groove cut in a few studs on a customers car,and filed them smooth,using a magnet and grease to keep the filings out of the engine as much as possible..I cringed,but it worked ..car still running today 3 years later...
4X4HIGH might not agree with you, but I do.
In what he said there are some things i agree on and others i don't. Doesn't really matter who or what you believe is correct. The thing that matters is that anyone going to attempt any kind of job they're not familiar with should consult with an automotive machinist such as myself for a PROFESSIONAL opinion. I highly doubt that you consider me a professional even though i've been in this trade now for almost 20 years come july.
I can tell by your posts that you do know what you are talking about, it is just that sometimes there is more than one way to do things. Other than that I have had chat with 78Suburban, and I have found there is more to this situation than thought, which is why there is some anomosity towards my opinions. I just hope evrything works out for him, and that he gets all the help he is going to need to remedy this unfortunate situation.
Well, i'm glad to see that you can admit that i do have a considerable amount of knowledge. 
I can assure you that i am helping him through his problem and hopefully there won't be any other issues arising for him anytime soon. I just hate to think that i have all this knowledge and that i am not recognized for it enough when i reply to someones post with much needed helpful info. Usually everyone is quick to jump the gun and doubt my knowledge without even looking at my profile and seeing that i'm an automotive machinist and know what i'm talking about. I'll be the first to admit that i don't know everything, but i do know alot about many different kinds of engines and such.
I can assure you that i am helping him through his problem and hopefully there won't be any other issues arising for him anytime soon. I just hate to think that i have all this knowledge and that i am not recognized for it enough when i reply to someones post with much needed helpful info. Usually everyone is quick to jump the gun and doubt my knowledge without even looking at my profile and seeing that i'm an automotive machinist and know what i'm talking about. I'll be the first to admit that i don't know everything, but i do know alot about many different kinds of engines and such.
78Suburban
1/2 ton status
well guys, here's my $5 worth of junk. Ended up getting a .003" oversized pressed in stud from O'Reilly's. Its Sealed Power part number MR1752. I just threw the stud in the freezer.
Tomorrow I'll drain my radiator below the level of the head, stack up those washers on the old stud, use a nut to pull the old stud, take my double nutted stud out of the feezer, rub it down with red locktite, brake out the the carpenter's hammer and maybe even a small BFH
I'll let yall know how it goes... I'm such a noob, hopefully all will be well. Yall will just have to wait and see.
Good luck, let me know how it goes!
78Suburban
1/2 ton status
different style pushrods?
I pulled a rocker and pushrod off my old motor, but this seems to be a different kind of pushrod. The one from the motor I'm working on has a grove in either end of it. The pushrod from my old motor has a smooth transition into the dome shape. What is the difference, and are they interchangable?
thanks
I pulled a rocker and pushrod off my old motor, but this seems to be a different kind of pushrod. The one from the motor I'm working on has a grove in either end of it. The pushrod from my old motor has a smooth transition into the dome shape. What is the difference, and are they interchangable?
thanks
As long as its the same length and the inside is clean will not matter just different styles
78Suburban
1/2 ton status
well, coated the hole in the motor with red locktite and started beating my double nutted stud in.. it made it about halfway down before I mushroomed my grade 5 nuts and stripped the threads on them... the threads are a little boogered on the stud now. I guess I may have to chase a die down the top of the stud and perhaps try to thread on a nut or two off my old motor's rockers... are the stock rocker nuts grade 5 or 8? How long does red locktite take to dry?
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Granted it would have cost around $150 or so, but i kinda think it would have been somewhat easier to just yank the heads and have a valve job done on them while that stud was being repaired. Also extra insurance on a fresh set of heads to ensure a little longer life out of the motor.
THAT'S what i personally would have done, but i like to kinda overdo things alittle,,,,
like the motor swap i am doing now, yanked out a running 305 and installed a newely rebuilt 350,,,just because it was a 305 and had some leaks.
THAT'S what i personally would have done, but i like to kinda overdo things alittle,,,,
like the motor swap i am doing now, yanked out a running 305 and installed a newely rebuilt 350,,,just because it was a 305 and had some leaks.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Then i would have started up the engine nekkid to ensure it's running properly
78Suburban
1/2 ton status
Game over, I loose. Time to swap heads
Well, I got the old stud out easily.
To make a long story short, I have some crushed nuts, a half bent .003" oversized stud with the top two threads ripped off, jammed in my motor with lots and lots of red locktite... there is no cleaning the threads or getting a nut on it, I've tried. So I'm left with but one option. Pull the heads off my old motor and swap em out. By the time I buy the correct head gaskets, manifold gaskets, head bolts, and exhaust gaskets, I'll be out of 80 dollars. I think I have a decent bottom end on this motor. A decent top end on my old motor. I'll just have to piece them together and hope I get one decent motor.
Another wonderful day in the neighborhood.
Well, I got the old stud out easily.
To make a long story short, I have some crushed nuts, a half bent .003" oversized stud with the top two threads ripped off, jammed in my motor with lots and lots of red locktite... there is no cleaning the threads or getting a nut on it, I've tried. So I'm left with but one option. Pull the heads off my old motor and swap em out. By the time I buy the correct head gaskets, manifold gaskets, head bolts, and exhaust gaskets, I'll be out of 80 dollars. I think I have a decent bottom end on this motor. A decent top end on my old motor. I'll just have to piece them together and hope I get one decent motor.
Another wonderful day in the neighborhood.
ouch, thats rough.
Eddie W
Registered Member
You should still be able to pull that stud back out, like I said before mine did the exact same thing you will just have to use more washers this time. Tap the hole and put a threaded stud in it, or a least attempt it before you pull the heads. the threaded studs are only about $2.50 and you already have the tap kit, if I lived close enough I would do it for you where are you located?If you have access to a dremel cutting tool use the small brown cutting blades, put a oil soaked rag around the stud to catch the metal shavings, cut the top of the stud off just passed the last bad thread that should leave you enough to get the nut on and pull the stud back out, i have had to do this so i know it will work.
I hope that this helps
I hope that this helps
James, like i said before, if you attempt this method first and it doesn't work for you then you still have option 2 which is the screw-in stud without the hex nut. If you wait til tomorrow i'll get you that part number as well. Sorry the first method of repair wasn't successful for you, you could always try once more with this method though before going to option 2.
The same sorta thing happened to me, but with my pinion gear when I was doing a gear swap. I got the pinion in nice and shimmed to the right pinion depth/backlash/contact pattern, and I used my BFH to wack on the end of the shaft to get it out and install the crush collar but the thing wouldn't come out so, 
fustrated I pounded real hard on it and missed the tip and completely boogered up the threads all the way down the shaft. 
I took it to a machine shop and they couldn't do anything about the threads because the steel is too hard to new cut threads. 
So I ended up having to buy a new ring and pinion gear set for $150.
Just watch were you swing your BFH because one missed swing can set you back $150.
fustrated I pounded real hard on it and missed the tip and completely boogered up the threads all the way down the shaft. I took it to a machine shop and they couldn't do anything about the threads because the steel is too hard to new cut threads. So I ended up having to buy a new ring and pinion gear set for $150. Just watch were you swing your BFH because one missed swing can set you back $150.
One of the first things I can see wrong is that a steel hammer was used. A softer brass headed hammer should have been used for this job.
1-ton said:
Goddamn dude....Do you EVER say the right thing?
