Pulled the Valve Covers.. FOUND THE PROBLEM *EDIT: stud replaced*

[diesel4me]

More news...

I hate to piss on your Wheaties,but every chevy motor I put "new" heads on from another motor with a fresh valve job made the motor smoke like a chimmney past the rings!...one so bad,(a 305 Monza motor in my 71 K1500),I got ticketed for excessive smoking a day after the swap..I ended up putting a 350 in from another vehicle I got ..its a lot of work for nothing,and costed me 150 bucks to do the valve job myself at the machine shop in the parts store,plus head gaskets,etc..

Engine parts ALL wear together!..put ALL new parts in,no troubles..but do a "patch" job by only doing the heads, and not the rings and pistons will force the oil by all the worn parts !..when they are all equally worn oil consumption is not usually excessive enough to be visible as smoke,or it smokes only after startup,etc..

As suggested earlier,make sure the motor is worth all this effort,if you decide to swap heads,make sure the cam isn't flat,or there is no cracks in the valley area,etc...


Like I said earlier,I'd have used the screw in studs..I have never had good luck trying to install new press in studs,even when the heads are on the bench..always trash a few,even with the proper tools( which is nothing more than a LONG nut made of solid round stock with a blind hole in it,so the hammer wont muck up the nut or threads..)--what happened in your case happens 99% of the time when an oversized stud is attempted to be pounded into a "standard" size hole without being reamed to fit first....goes in halfway,then it stops,bends,or worse,cracks the head!..

I'd try a screw in stud,a torch will break the loctitie's grip,an oxy-acetalyne torch would be preferable to a propane torch ,but it might work..you can use a open end wrench on the tap,or an adjustable..they also sell "tap sockets" to fit a ratchet for places regular wrenches and "T" handles wont fit..take care to get the threads started STRAIGHT so the stud isn't crooked once its in there..a giude for the tap like a 3/8 drive socket over the boss might help keep it straighter..good luck,dont junk this motor yet,it'll probably live long after this is fixed!...

 

[78Suburban]

I hate to piss on your Wheaties,but every chevy motor I put "new" heads on from another motor with a fresh valve job made the motor smoke like a chimmney past the rings!...one so bad,(a 305 Monza motor in my 71 K1500),I got ticketed for excessive smoking a day after the swap..I ended up putting a 350 in from another vehicle I got ..its a lot of work for nothing,and costed me 150 bucks to do the valve job myself at the machine shop in the parts store,plus head gaskets,etc..

Engine parts ALL wear together!..put ALL new parts in,no troubles..but do a "patch" job by only doing the heads, and not the rings and pistons will force the oil by all the worn parts !..when they are all equally worn oil consumption is not usually excessive enough to be visible as smoke,or it smokes only after startup,etc..

As suggested earlier,make sure the motor is worth all this effort,if you decide to swap heads,make sure the cam isn't flat,or there is no cracks in the valley area,etc...


Like I said earlier,I'd have used the screw in studs..I have never had good luck trying to install new press in studs,even when the heads are on the bench..always trash a few,even with the proper tools( which is nothing more than a LONG nut made of solid round stock with a blind hole in it,so the hammer wont muck up the nut or threads..)--what happened in your case happens 99% of the time when an oversized stud is attempted to be pounded into a "standard" size hole without being reamed to fit first....goes in halfway,then it stops,bends,or worse,cracks the head!..

I'd try a screw in stud,a torch will break the loctitie's grip,an oxy-acetalyne torch would be preferable to a propane torch ,but it might work..you can use a open end wrench on the tap,or an adjustable..they also sell "tap sockets" to fit a ratchet for places regular wrenches and "T" handles wont fit..take care to get the threads started STRAIGHT so the stud isn't crooked once its in there..a giude for the tap like a 3/8 drive socket over the boss might help keep it straighter..good luck,dont junk this motor yet,it'll probably live long after this is fixed!...

Wow, that's an informantive reply. I'll try to get the stud off and stick with these heads, but if I have to swap heads from my old motor, I guess I won't even fool with a vlave job. That'll save me money anyway. And I hate to keep dropping money into a turd, at somepoint I could have bought a crate motor.

 

[Russell]

I hate to disagree with you diesel4me, but I've never once had a problem swapping heads from one engine to the other, and I've done it at least 4 times now. The biggest thing is making sure the threads are totally clean, using bolts that arn't fatigued (measure them, you can tell that way), and making sure that the two mating surfaces are so clean that you'd be willing to lick them. You don't want any oily films, old peices of gasket, RTV, or grease on there. The next big thing, as I mentioned on MSN as well, is to make sure that you torque the heads in steps, not all at once.

Finally, one thing I forgot to mention -- While you've got the new used heads on the bench, change the valve seals, or Diesel4Me is right, she'll smoke like a bugger, lol

 

[78Suburban]

Got Her DONE!!!

Well guys, looks like I need a part number for a thread in stud, cause I just pulled out the press in stud that I messed up!

Used an angle grinder to cut off the top 2 threads, then cleaned it up with a file... Got a nut to thread on finnally

stacked washers, put nut back on... fired up the torch

And got-r-done!!! Looks like I may not have to swap heads after all!!

now down to business..
Does anyone have a pic of the style of tap I should use and the custom socket I would need in order to adapt one to a rachet?

and, This is the #1 intake stud. Its less than half as bad as the stud I pulled out. And the AC compressor is so close to it... could I get away with just running it like this for a while, or do I need to remove my compressor, lay it aside, pull this stud, and tap a hole here too?

I'm in a good mood

 

[4X4HIGH]

The screw in stud number is a Dorman #693-006. The other stud in question i woud just leave from the looks of it.

 

[ryoken]

man, that motor had a poor oil change history....

 

[Eddie W]

I knew you could do it, Just grab that Dorman stud it's the same one I used, tap the hole and be done with it. You should be up and running tomorrow. Tha tap set you put in the pic should work as long as its a quality tap just make sure to catch the shavings.

 

[Chevy305]

man, that motor had a poor oil change history....

After you are done with the new studs run the engine for a brief amount of time and then change the oil.

 

[ryoken]

After you are done with the new studs run the engine for a brief amount of time and then change the oil.

Huh? Not sure why you quoted me.. My statement was in reference to the sludge varnish buildup.. Not any preventive maintenance...

 

[78Suburban]

Cool, I'll use that part number. Anybody know of a place that carries Dorman? I couldn't find Dorman parts the other day. Hopefully I can cross reference it to sealed power or some other brand. So where can I get a socket made for a tap?
thanks

 

[Chevy305]

Huh? Not sure why you quoted me.. My statement was in reference to the sludge varnish buildup.. Not any preventive maintenance...

Just reminded me to tell our friend Mr. 78Suburban.

 

[ryoken]

Just reminded me to tell our friend Mr. 78Suburban.

gotcha...

 

[mofugly13]

You can probably use a twelve point socket of the right size on that tap.

 

[diesel4me]

Tools....

Tap sockets are available at most good hardware stores or perhaps Sears..they do sell "8" point sockets made for square headed bolts that work well on them too..but they aren't a must,I do 90% of my tapping with an adjustable wrench or open end if the tap "T" handle wont clear obstructions..

Sierra,It's OK to dissagree with me..I'm not saying every motor will start belching oil smoke if "fresh" heads are installed on an otherwise untouched block,but there is a good chance it will!...I've had it happen more often than not!..but everyone has different experiences when it comes to mechanical things...

I've done some VERY crude engine "modifications" at the junkyard I worked at,and was amazed at how GOOD they turned out!..(like using a 350 head on one side,and a 305 head on the other--both had different size valves and combustion chambers..but the motor purred pretty smooth considering!..

As for 78 Suburbans other "sawed" studs,its up to him whether or not to replace them....I left the ones in my 400 SB ,and they lived as long as I had the truck it was in!..granted,I only went 12,000 miles,but for a mostly "yard use" truck I didn't go far on the road with very often,I didn't feel like pulling the heads off,and end up having to do a total rebuild after getting into it..I figured it would need a cam,rings,timing chain,and probably boring and honing if I did only the heads...

At any rate,he'll be good at doing stud replacement after the first one is done(usually the hardest one is your first attempt)..either he'll be confident enough to do it no sweat,or he'll say F*** that!!...

 

[1-ton]

All those sawed studs could be (I SAID "COULD BE" I DID NOT SAY "ABSOLUTLY") a sign that a high lift cam was installed without installing long slot rocker arms to go with it.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I'm not jumping on you but i doubt it because they are sawed on the sides. Also a higher lift cam with factory steel rockers of standard slot would usually break a rocker in half since it would bind on the stud on the valve side of the stud.

 

[1-ton]

I'm not jumping on you but i doubt it because they are sawed on the sides. Also a higher lift cam with factory steel rockers of standard slot would usually break a rocker in half since it would bind on the stud on the valve side of the stud.

yes, I agree with you. I bought a used engine one time that had that problem of a cam with too much lift for the stock rocker arms, the opposite side of the valve was sawed on the stud, but not the sides of the stud. Also the rockers where galled pretty good in the slot area.

 

[surpip]

Luckily it looks like you used low heat Blue Locktite as opposed high heat Red Locktite, which will lesson the locktite problem factor a little.

do you read the posts you reply to?
first of all the is a picture of the tube of red loctite that he used, and than there is this:

To make a long story short, I have some crushed nuts, a half bent .003" oversized stud with the top two threads ripped off, jammed in my motor with lots and lots of red locktite...

it might be helpful to read all the the replies in order to better help someone out is all i am saying.

 

[1-ton]

do you read the posts you reply to?
first of all the is a picture of the tube of red loctite that he used, and than there is this:

Damn dude, you must be just spoiling for a chance to jump my sh!t over something this minor. Maybe you should try reading all the reponces too because if you did, you would have seen this back about 2 or 3 pages ago.

Your right. I thought it was blue because it was in a blue tube. No big deal though, the red stuff cannot stand up to 70 or 80 foot pounds of tourque, when you start pulling it out. Using a hand file to grind down the mushroomed part of a Grade 8 stud is going to be a slow and painfull proccess. A die grinder would make short work of it.

Also the tube is Blue with a small red stripe, if you bother to look at it. If you have ever bought Locktight much, you would know that normaly the low heat stuff comes in a blue tube, and the high heat in a red tube. The Blue tube with a small red strip, is not the conventional packaging Locktight has used over the last 30 years or so.

 

[surpip]

not jumping your ****, just saying
alot of people jump on saying something when they are way off base
just helps to read everyting if you are going to reply is all

stop being so freaking defensive, jeez