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question on windstar elec. fans

Cornfield creations

Cornfield creations

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I finally got my windstar elec. fans today. Last one in the u-pick yard. I got a question on the wiring. I am going to get the Painless Perf. 30102 Fan-thom wiring kit w/ thermostat. On the fans I got the weather tight connector for the driver side fan, no problem there, but on the pass. side the weather tight connector was missing already. I guess someone snipped it off when they pulled the engine. All the other fans were missing out of all the other windstars.

So on the pass. side fan, 3 tab plug. Which one is the pos. and neg? Is there a high and low on that fan? The driver side fan is only a 2 tab plug, but I have that connector.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!
 
Sorry I cant be any help, but I need to know this as well.

thanks
-Nigel
 
if i remember correctly, the one at the "top" is B+ low, middle is B+ hi, and bottom is the ground. worst that will happen if you wire them up backwards is they will push instead of pull.
 
We had one come in the shop today, and it have a pos. going to the top on , and the neg. going to the bottom. There wasn't any wire going to the center terminal.

I then ran power to both the top and center terminals and it seemed like they ran at the same speed.
 
Ok, yet another question. I was going to go with the Painless 30102 Fan-thom wiring kit w/ thermostat. Would that kit be enough to power 2 fans? How many amps do these fans draw?

Would it be better to buy a thermostat, relay, circuit breaker and wire it myself? How did everyone else do it?
 
Typically, unless you spend money on a monster breaker, people run a relay for each fan. Unless you know you need the cooling, it's unnecessary and potentially detrimental to have both fans on at the same time.

My opinion on setup is that you want each fan on it's own temp switch, different on/off temps for each switch. Add in a manual switch if you ever plan to submerge the fans.

A good reason to have a fan switch (or two) with on/off temps that are a good 15-20* apart, you don't need a manual on/off switch if you know your fans aren't near the turn-on temp, since submerged the radiator will be more effective than the fans, and they will never come on.
 
I installed the windstar setup last summer. It worked great. I too had many wires going to the fan (primary I think) and I just wired it all in parallel so I have 1 positive and 1 negative at each fan.

I used a water outlet from an 80s truck with 2 npt ports in it, and I installed 2 thermal temperature switches (thermal ground) from an 80's Camaro. Then I wired it so I can have a master on/auto and an auto/off switch for each fan. Plus each system is isolated from each other, so if there is a failure in one circuit, the other wont be affected.

Let me know if you need detailed info on this. I can't get to all of it right now.

Dorian really helped me out with the install by bouncing ideas back and forth. Thanks again :waytogo:
 
Yeah I need some detailed info. I have a 3/8 port on my intake I can put a temp sensor. I am wanting to wire it up like you said so if one failed the other won't. I also don't need the switches, I don't do any water crossings. I just want the fans to turn on when it reaches a certain temp and turn off at a certain temp, and having the 2nd fan turn on only when needed.
 
After I installed my Windstar fans in the Blazer, I wante a safe, reliable way to operate them, with a fail-safe (not simply an on/off switch, I occasionally let other people drive it). After bouncing ideas of Dorian (dyeager535), we figured a simple way to do it.

From the Napa catalog, I chose 2 sensors to be the thermal triggers for the fan. Both are from a mid to late 80's Camaro, 4 cyl if I remember correctly. The switch I am using for my primary fan is FS113, which operates between 204-220 degrees F. The switch for the secondary fan is FS111, which operates between 229-245 degrees F.

To mount these in a secure, temperature accurate location, I used a water outlet neck from a mid 80's Chevy truck (the kind where the ported vacuum switches go. It was part # 9560 from Pep Boys. I do not remember the brand. I did have to use a brass bushing to have one of the sensors fit, as one of the ports was too large. To connect wire to the switches, I used knock sensor connectors that I got from a local junkyard. The temperature switches and the knock sensors share the same connector style.

Here is a rough picture. The outlet is painted black, just beyond the A/C pressure tubes. I painted one of the switches white, along with one of the connectors to signify that as the primary fan circuit.

P8250032.jpg


Here is how it is wired. I have two switches that I use in order to manually turn the fan on or off. It should be self-explainatory. I am not the best photoshop/paint designer, so ask if you do not understand this diagram.

FanCircuit2.jpg
 
randy88k5 said:
After I installed my Windstar fans in the Blazer, I wante a safe, reliable way to operate them, with a fail-safe (not simply an on/off switch, I occasionally let other people drive it). After bouncing ideas of Dorian (dyeager535), we figured a simple way to do it.

From the Napa catalog, I chose 2 sensors to be the thermal triggers for the fan. Both are from a mid to late 80's Camaro, 4 cyl if I remember correctly. The switch I am using for my primary fan is FS113, which operates between 204-220 degrees F. The switch for the secondary fan is FS111, which operates between 229-245 degrees F.

To mount these in a secure, temperature accurate location, I used a water outlet neck from a mid 80's Chevy truck (the kind where the ported vacuum switches go. It was part # 9560 from Pep Boys. I do not remember the brand. I did have to use a brass bushing to have one of the sensors fit, as one of the ports was too large. To connect wire to the switches, I used knock sensor connectors that I got from a local junkyard. The temperature switches and the knock sensors share the same connector style.

Here is a rough picture. The outlet is painted black, just beyond the A/C pressure tubes. I painted one of the switches white, along with one of the connectors to signify that as the primary fan circuit.

P8250032.jpg


Here is how it is wired. I have two switches that I use in order to manually turn the fan on or off. It should be self-explainatory. I am not the best photoshop/paint designer, so ask if you do not understand this diagram.

FanCircuit2.jpg
Click to expand...

Go info here!


So each fan should be wired independent of one another?

And does it draw that much air to cool?

That both need not work at the same time?


I'm in need of this set up as well and I don't know sh!t from Shinola when it comes to electrical stuff :doah:.
 
Yes, I forgot to emphasize that point. I wired each fan independently, incase of a problem, at least one fan should still be operational.

Yes, I am still building heat, but it is not because of the fans (weight, gearing, steep hills, etc...). One fan should be able to handle the cooling of the engine witj most setups. I can and usually flip both fans on if I know I am going to be going up an incline for a large amount of time.

I was originally going to install just on/off switches, but I was worried that I or someone else would forget to turn them on, so I wanted a fail-safe method of turning the fans on and off. I found this to be a cheap, reliable method of doing such.
 
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