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Radiator and Trans Cooler

The reason I did not use the rariator cooler ( and just use the 24,000btu auxiliary trans cooler ) is flow volume. In the past I have removed, flushed with solvent, and flow tested them ( crudely ) with a garden hose and water. My results indicate a significant reduction in flow volume probably due to the internal baffeling of the radiator cooler. When I repeat this test on an after market 24,000btu cooler I observed essentially no flow volume restriction. When you add the large overall size ane aluminum fins ( for greater heat exchange ) and its location - in front of the radiator - to realise that I did not need the radiator cooler.
I also thought about the necessity of the radiator coolant warming up the trans fluid. Last winter I put it to a test. On a cold (40F) winter day I started my truck and drove about 1/2 mile. I shut off the engine and felt the radiator and the transmisson lines. The radiator was cold, the transmisson lines were warm. Therefore the torque converter starts warming the fluid before the thermostat opens to the radiator.
It is my opinion that piping the transmission fluid directly to the 24,000btu aftermarket cooler and back to the transmission ( without using the radiator cooler ) allows both a greater volume of fluid available for heat transfer and a greater overall heat transfer (delta ^ ) due to the larger available surface area and the greater temperature differential ( between the ambient air temp and trans fluid temp ).
 
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't there need to be some type of "throttling" so that the fluid can stay in the cooler long enough to actually do anything? Like the thermostat in the cooling system. If there's no thermostat or "throttling" in the coolant system the truck will overheat because the coolant doesn't spend enough time in the radiator to cool off/ shed some heat.
 
I don't know about the trans, but in the engine the thermostat works the other way. It restricts flow when the engine is cold and opens up when it is hot. As I understand it, engines run too cold without a thermostat.
 
The thermostat when open, still has a specific orifice per temperature. i.e. a 195* is smaller than a 160*. Instead of a thermostat you can run just a plate with the correct size hole in it for the temperature you are trying to achieve.
 
Mike D said:
The reason I did not use the rariator cooler ( and just use the 24,000btu auxiliary trans cooler ) is flow volume. In the past I have removed, flushed with solvent, and flow tested them ( crudely ) with a garden hose and water. My results indicate a significant reduction in flow volume probably due to the internal baffeling of the radiator cooler. When I repeat this test on an after market 24,000btu cooler I observed essentially no flow volume restriction. When you add the large overall size ane aluminum fins ( for greater heat exchange ) and its location - in front of the radiator - to realise that I did not need the radiator cooler.
I also thought about the necessity of the radiator coolant warming up the trans fluid. Last winter I put it to a test. On a cold (40F) winter day I started my truck and drove about 1/2 mile. I shut off the engine and felt the radiator and the transmisson lines. The radiator was cold, the transmisson lines were warm. Therefore the torque converter starts warming the fluid before the thermostat opens to the radiator.
It is my opinion that piping the transmission fluid directly to the 24,000btu aftermarket cooler and back to the transmission ( without using the radiator cooler ) allows both a greater volume of fluid available for heat transfer and a greater overall heat transfer (delta ^ ) due to the larger available surface area and the greater temperature differential ( between the ambient air temp and trans fluid temp ).
Click to expand...
The only thing is I`m worried about, is a cold winter day around here (MA) can`t get as low as 0*
 
Slapperbar said:
The thermostat when open, still has a specific orifice per temperature. i.e. a 195* is smaller than a 160*. Instead of a thermostat you can run just a plate with the correct size hole in it for the temperature you are trying to achieve.
Click to expand...

OK, I got you now. :waytogo:
 
I get to see alot of sub-zeros. BTO also recommends using the in-radiator cooler to help bring tranny fluid up to proper temp quicker.
 
I pretty much live in a place where it gets hot in the summer (90-100*F), and cold in the winter (0-30*F)

I`d rather be safe than sorry, so is it work the extra 40 bucks to get the summit aluminum rad with the cooler built in, rather than just a standard rad.?
 
I ordered the 4 core heat buster from Advance last year and it came in as the 2 core Aluminum unit. Better all the way around. 110 heat index sitting in traffic with the A/C cranked and not doing a damn thing. Temp. stays at 200.
 
I went ahead and ordered the B&M 70264 from Summit(came to $70 shipped). Weighed different options and figured since this rig was mostly a mall crawler and doesn't tow much of anything. My next upgrade will include an aluminum pan and temp gauge.

I still need to get a radiator... thinking about ordering one from Rock Auto since I've got a discount code and a gift certificate there. Anyone ever use a Spectra radiator? Part number listed is CU730 and the dimensions seem to be the same as whats in there now(admittedly I measured mine in the dark but it came close to the 28.25x19" measurement).

Also, I want to replace all my hoses, the ones on there now look kind of grisly. The problem I have is the stock intake to heatercore hose has a metal fitting on it.. do these come on replacement hoses or is this a hose I'd have to have made up?
 
I just cut the tube and put a new piece of hose on it with a hose clamp.
Tarey

You can see in the pic the hose clamp.

DSCN0579.JPG
 
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