Raising Drivetrain

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by Ryan Melton, Mar 19, 2001.

  1. Ryan Melton

    Ryan Melton Registered Member

    Dec 15, 2000
    Likes Received:

    I am in the process of raising my drivetrain and could use your opinion on this. My three avail. options would be the following: Raise drivetrain so nothing hangs below frame (6.5" higher than stock). (Engine x-member would not hang below frame rails). This would give me the maximum amount of room as I plan to run my draglink and tie rod above my springs (6" susp. lift). Option 2 would be to raise it approx 4" to clear Doubler above bottom of rails and have approx 2.5 " of hang down from engine x-member. Option 3 would be use clocking on doubler and raise slightly. Which of these would be the best in your opinion? Even with the 6.5" raise it would only raise my center of gravity 1.3".

    Can the 203 rangebox portion of the doubler be clocked? If so how much? Also the 203 mounting foot on my Dodge 203 hangs down farther than a Chevy. Could you fab a shorter plate for a Dodge?

    Also, what dia. and wall thickness of tubing should I fab crossmembers out of? (Starting this in a couple of weeks) I need to use the smallest diameter that will work as to minimize lift on the drive train. Sorry If this is kind of long.


  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

    Sep 15, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Carbondale Colorado
    The way I would look at it is: raise it the least amount possible. Reasoning is that moving the entire drivetrain up 6" will cause you some major body work, and raise the CG. It may not be much, but it's there. You'll also have more driveshaft problems.
    It think your best combo would be to do a rotation on the 205 with the Doubler, leave the 203 alone, raise the motor as much as it takes, and the entire t-case system as much as you can without doing MAJOR hacking on the floor. Then skid plate it all.

    It's tough to clock the 203 on a Dodge since the adapters are just not well suited to it. Fortunately the 203 sits pretty far forward, so it's not a huge deal to plate under it. GM's, especially the TH350 version 203 are REALLY easy to clock, just rotate it on the bolts!
    You should be able to fab a low profile crossmember under the motor that will give you the clearance you need, if not, figure something else out. I had good luck with my tie rod mounted on top of the knuckle arms, and under the spring. It's quite a ways up there at that point.

    Tubing for the crossmember really depends on how you build it. The factory GM crossmembers work pretty well with just a couple of vertical legs about a inch or so tall. So a couple cross bars of 1.5 or 1.75 x .120 wall round or square should do it if they're properly braced.
    For the 203 mounting height, what if you just used a mount off the transmission? I don't know what yo'ure using, but the GM trannies have a mounting location on them that's somewhat convenient to use.

    One conclusion I've come to after looking at a lot of vehicles is that skid plating can take you a long ways. If you have to, let it hang down a plate it so it's smooth. We took some rover D90's into 21 road, and with about 2" of lift they did really well because everything was armored underneath.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.

Share This Page