Really thinking about linking it or build the BBC up?

[four_by_ken]

Chances are I will be swapping in some new axles in the near future. Really starting to consider linking the K5.

I did some searching... admittedly quite quick.

Just not quite finding a thread that answers my specifics.

Tube thicknesses and end sizes, etc for a heavy full size. I dont mind overkill as long as the price doesnt sky rocket dramatically with the over kill.

I will admit most of my wheeling is in the mud... deep mud. I know I dont NEED to link it... I just want to. Thinking 4 link front and rear.

Truck is an 85 full bodied K5. Running 44s and Rockwells. Probably be retired from the street.

Does anyone feel like a little discussion with me on this?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

For tube, nothing less than 2" .250" for the lowers. The strength of the tubing also matters based on the length of the links (longer links are easier to bend), but it might not matter much in the mud.

I used these for joints, I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 5/8" bolt for the links.

 

[Hossbaby50]

1 or 1.25" rod ends for a heavy application is probably what you are going to want for at least the lowers. Or the 3" Ballistic Fab joints would work well too. 7/8x3/4" heims would probably be fine for the uppers but a little bigger is always better. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/30quot-FORGED-Ultra-Duty-BALLISTIC-joint_p_1626.html

You will need beefy lower links if it is heavy and you might have impacts with rocks/stumps, etc. 1.75"x.250wall DOM sleeved with 2.25"x.250 wall DOM, 2.25"x.375wall DOM, or go square. My lower links on my buggy are going to be 2"x.250 wall DOM bridged with flatstrap to increase the strength. My boss's buggy is 2x.250 wall square sleeved2.5"x.250 wall square. The lower links are heavy as hell but the uppers are made from lighter stuff since they aren't seeing impact.

Linking the rear is more important then linking the front. More performance is gained with rear links then front links. Front links are nice but rears are more important IMO.

Harley

 

[four_by_ken]

I will be going one of two directions... either keeping the leaf setup and spending some to build the spare big block I have...

Or spend some money to link it.




The Rockwells I will be going with are set up for 4 links under a buggy. So... they may or may not work for me. Setting it up to use the leafs I have under the Blazer already would probably be the easiest. Just grind off the link mounts and weld on the perches and off I go.

But, a link suspension (properly set up)... works so much better in every aspect.

But, a 500hp big block sure would be fun.

 

[blazinzuk]

a 500 hp big block will also go a long way to destroying your leaf springs too.

Link it I have had good luck with 2" .5 wall using 1.25" heims or the biggest flex joints. Thats for the lowers for the upper I usually use 1.5 .250 and 1" heims or the next size smaller flex joint

 

[four_by_ken]

The only real reason I am thinking about linking it is that the axles I am getting have tabs on them. But, I am thinking that since they were under a buggy.... they probably wouldnt be optimal for me with the Blazer.

Really not sure what I will do yet. But, I want to be ready to buy parts when I do decide.

 

[four_by_ken]

What is the good vrs bad on...

Links at the axle end. I see some run the 4 links on the axles to outside of the dif, two on one side and two on the other side.

Then, other people run two links the outside of the dif and then the other two up over the dif.

 

[four_by_ken]

More thinking going on.... if I could get the links on the axles to work for me, I would be damn close and all I would have to worry about is where to mount the tabs up under the frame.

That would be just locating where to put 8 mounts for the rod ends. Would either have to use a cross member, or go right to the frame?



Can you tell I am racking my brain on all this?

 

[four_by_ken]

Oh crap... almost forgot something for the new springs too.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

More thinking going on.... if I could get the links on the axles to work for me, I would be damn close and all I would have to worry about is where to mount the tabs up under the frame.

That would be just locating where to put 8 mounts for the rod ends. Would either have to use a cross member, or go right to the frame?



Can you tell I am racking my brain on all this?

Placing the links in the right spot is very important on a 4 link, if you place the links wherever they are most convenient you probably won't be happy with the outcome.

Anti-squat is expressed as a percentage, its the suspension resisting the torque running through the axle. AS makes the rear end either squat or raise up during acceleration. This is set by how the links are setup when looking from the side.

Roll axis angle (probably not super important on a mud truck) determines how much the axle will move front/back on each side during articulation.
This is determined by how the links are setup when looking from above.

There is more complexity here, but mud truck suspensions don't need to be as fine tuned as rock ones.


Both are explained in my 4 link writeup here.

 

[twoslo4five0]

my links are 1 3/4 .250 wall and i run 3/4 heims on the uppers and 7/8 on the lowers.no complaints or problems with the 1 3/4 tubing.i run air shocks as well.