Ben B.
1/2 ton status
My air vent line (??) on my rearend isn't hooked up...it just hangs. Is it important and should be fixed or can i just take ir off or shove it somewhere?
CK5
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Rear Axle Vent Line...
- Thread starter Ben B.
- Start date
Tie it up to the highest point possible to keep any water out should you go through deep water crossings.
What end isn't hooked up, it doesnt go anywhere...Tape it to your driveline...
Can Can
Pusher Man
Please tell me the line is attached to the fitting on the axle...
chevyfumes said:What end isn't hooked up, it doesnt go anywhere...Tape it to your driveline...
Stay out of the Garage, Fumes, and go drink in the Lounge where you belong!
You are supposed to WELD it to the driveline, btw...
-- A
I knew it wouldn't be long before I got the boot...dremu said:Stay out of the Garage, Fumes, and go drink in the Lounge where you belong!
Ben B. said:
There should be a clamp on the bottom of the body to secure it to.
Rolled
1/2 ton status
I alway run a new line up to the core support where the front diff vent line goes. The rear just ends along the frame which is pretty stupid since lots of trucks get use to launch boats not to mention the river crossers...
I think the purpose is pretty well served if you go fairly slow...you can't get water in there unless the air contracts, since it's "sealed" anyways. The pressure difference hot and cold is what would either suck water in or force it out, but in a neutral state, water can't enter. I'd suspect it is above the "recommended" fording depth on these trucks though, for the benefit of the doubt to GM.
On the K5's (unsure of trucks) the end is STOCK attached to the bottom of the bed, if you get the rear of a K5 that far into the water while launching a boat, the bed would be half filled with water and so would your taillights!
I agree though, it should have been run up higher stock, a crossing doesn't usually allow much time for the diff to shed heat. Then again, that would have cost GM probably $.05 on every truck they made.
On the K5's (unsure of trucks) the end is STOCK attached to the bottom of the bed, if you get the rear of a K5 that far into the water while launching a boat, the bed would be half filled with water and so would your taillights!
I agree though, it should have been run up higher stock, a crossing doesn't usually allow much time for the diff to shed heat. Then again, that would have cost GM probably $.05 on every truck they made.
G.M.H
Registered Member
I zip tied an inverted plastic pop bottle to the crossmember and ran the vent tube up inside it. That way the diff always has it's own reserve air bubble.
badmix
1/2 ton status
Here is where I routed my Rear diff, Front Diff, and Transfer case vent tubes. Its as high as I could go without goin inside, lol.
wow u ran ur rear line all the way up to the front? looks good tho
badmix
1/2 ton status
muddybuddy said:
LoL..yeah it was a long haul for sure. But made for cleaner look. If ya want it high, than its gotta go up in engine bay.
Clod_King
1/2 ton status
what kind of filters are those? valve cover filters?
badmix
1/2 ton status
Clod_King said:
yeah jus some cheapo Discount Auto parts filters, cost like 8-10bux each. The hardest part was finding room as high as possible in the engine bay. The back corners like you see is it.
Here is close up. I used some Male-Male brass barbed fittings inside the filter and the hose. The gap between the red and black filter is for the hood hinge to fit.
Desert Rat
Fetch the comfy chair
I've got extensions on all my vents. I ran the rear diff up and over the gas tank to the driver side rear quarter panel and then up inside it by the tail lights. I've got two vents on the doubler TC setup, one on the tranny, and one on the front diff that all run up like Badmix's into the engine compartment. I cap mine off with those cheap VW gas filters.
Ben B.
1/2 ton status
So umm....is it needed?
Well don't plug it if thats what you mean, but if you never go into water then you don't have to go to the extremes that some of these guys have...
broncoman6524
1/2 ton status
ya DONT plug it, mine was clogged. and it blew out one of hte paper diff gaskets...
It's a good idea to have it routed up to at least the underside of the bed. Even if you never do water crossings, there is still dirt flying around under the truck when at any speed. The higher the vent is, the less dirt that can get into the diff lube.
FWIW Dorian, those on my '79 & '91 Subs came bolted to the fwd fuel tank crossmember, nearly as high as the underside of the bed.
FWIW Dorian, those on my '79 & '91 Subs came bolted to the fwd fuel tank crossmember, nearly as high as the underside of the bed.
