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Rear discs done, does it look ok? *pics*

divorced

3/4 ton status
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I just got done with the rear discs on my 14 bolt. (Thanks cybrfire for the cool brackets /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif) I couldn't find a lot of info on how to run the lines. I used hoses for a 1979 Chevette and then hard line to the center. I cut the hard lines to the correct length and used a double flare tool that I bought at Napa. Does anything look unsafe or disasterous? Also, the springs are 5.5" lift springs, what's the deal with the curved overload? it doesn't sit very well on the block, it only touches near the center.

1864710-04-04_002.jpg


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Bonus pic, critique(sp?) my welds. (It was done with a stick welder)

1864710-04-04_006.jpg
 
Looks good, but I would try to raise those rubber lines up some so they don't get caught on anything. Nice weld for using a stick. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Looks ok to me apart from that flexi hose hanging down so far just waiting to snag a rock. As for the springs....weird, looks like they'll be prone to easy axle wrap.
 
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looks like they'll be prone to easy axle wrap

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Yes, they do wrap easily. The truck had factory 3/4 ton springs with an add-a-leaf and a 4" block and axle wrap wasn't a problem. I think I will remove the 2" block and buy some 1" zero rates.



The hose hangs down the the bottom of the axle tube, but no farther. There are no rocks around here, just a bunch of mud. I may see what can be done to raise it up some though.
 
You could probably tie the hoses up to the ubolts with some zip ties. Looks great. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I'd either dump the overloads or flop them upside down.

If you flop them you can drill the rear end of each and bolt on a leaf keeper that rises above the main leaf by a little. That way when the spring tries to wrap the keeper's cross bar will contact the main leaf and make the overload act as a traction bar. Lest you think I'm smart or something equally terrible, this is what yoter did on my '84 4wd and it works well.
 
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Looks very professional! I wish I could weld as good as you can!

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Thanks, I can weld fairly well with a stick, but not at all with a wire feed /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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Did you go with the e-brake (caddy calipers) or not?

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No, I went with the front calipers. I have read opinions both ways on the caddy calipers, some say they work well and others say they don't. My cables were also messed up so I didn't worry about the parking brake.
 
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I'd either dump the overloads or flop them upside down.

If you flop them you can drill the rear end of each and bolt on a leaf keeper that rises above the main leaf by a little. That way when the spring tries to wrap the keeper's cross bar will contact the main leaf and make the overload act as a traction bar. Lest you think I'm smart or something equally terrible, this is what yoter did on my '84 4wd and it works well.

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I think I understand what you are saying. Flip the overload, leave it on the bottom, and a bracket that goes from it to the top of the main leaf? Kind of like the bolt-on overload leafs?
 
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Looks very professional! I wish I could weld as good as you can!

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Thanks, I can weld fairly well with a stick, but not at all with a wire feed /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

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Once you get the hang of it, it's much easier.
 
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I think I understand what you are saying. Flip the overload, leave it on the bottom, and a bracket that goes from it to the top of the main leaf? Kind of like the bolt-on overload leafs?

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Yes, leave the overload where it is, just flip it 180* so it arcs down instead of up. That alone will be a significant improvement in ride quality.

Some leaf keepers have a bolt and a sleave across their tops, rather than being pinched down over the top leaf. If you do this on the rear of the overload leaves and leave some space btwn the sleave and the main leaf, then when the spring tries to wrap the rear of the overload will go down and pull the sleave into contact with the main leaf. The only other time the sleave will come in contact with the main leaf is when you hang that tire in the air.

With the amount of arc that overload has in it you may want to start out with a Suburban overload as they are flatter.
 
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