The front brakes were doing all the work when the rear was destroyed, so know the front works. I did suspect the MC, and now I am suspecting the proportioning valve or if this vehicle has it, anti lock brakes
CK5
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Rear drum brakes question
- Thread starter imiceman44
- Start date
That is a symptom of the rear ABS brakes functioning. It normally only happens under severe braking. Is this 4 wheel abs or rear only?
Rear only I believe.
So update:
I decided to replace the rear axle but I did one last check before I did and jacked the rear up and put it in gear to see how it was acting when I brake, and I found a wobble on the side that was bouncing.
I took the wheel and the drum off and saw that the exterior flange is bent, so that would cause the brakes to act up.
I switched axles, and test drove it and at first I thought it was fixed and went for the speed test to see if the vibe was gone but alas, it is still there, so slowing down it starts to vibrate again under braking but not a violent shake, just a vibe.
So now I tested the brake again trying to figure out if it's ABS related, and I think it is because I hit the brake a little harder to stop the vibe and it grabbed and released then grabbed again.
So I really want to just eliminate the ABS.
What is the best way?
Unplug the electronic module. Remove the hydraulic rear abs valve. Connect the rear brake line with 2 female flare couplers and a Piece of tubing flared.
I forget how the eliminate the abs dash light, unplugging the module might do that.
RWAL is a horrible and system got to go.
I forget how the eliminate the abs dash light, unplugging the module might do that.
RWAL is a horrible and system got to go.
I agree.
And it must go.
I would like to fix this by Wednesday.
We are going to Mammoth lakes, a good 5 hours plus trip in the mountains, I want good brakes
Swapping out the crappy rear wheel abs system is pretty easy. I did it to my '91.
Step one, yank the ABS pump/module out.
Step two, remove the ABS prop valve.
Step three, install the hard lines from the master cylinder to prop valve from an earlier non-abs equipped truck.
Step four, install the earlier style prop valve on the front frame cross member. You will have to remove two unions that are there. You will need to change out the tube nut to the line that goes to the rear. The nut on the ABS line does not fit the earlier prop valve.
Step five, bleed the brakes. Done.
Step one, yank the ABS pump/module out.
Step two, remove the ABS prop valve.
Step three, install the hard lines from the master cylinder to prop valve from an earlier non-abs equipped truck.
Step four, install the earlier style prop valve on the front frame cross member. You will have to remove two unions that are there. You will need to change out the tube nut to the line that goes to the rear. The nut on the ABS line does not fit the earlier prop valve.
Step five, bleed the brakes. Done.
Yes you do. If you pull the abs fuse the light will be on but you'll have regular service brakes.
Default is normal brakes if anything electrical goes wrong.
Default is normal brakes if anything electrical goes wrong.
Yes I believe that nut is metric.
So can find out if that's my problem by just pulling the fuse before I eliminate everything?
Yes.
