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rear fender wheel opening stretch

76zimmer

Flyin Rat
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Here's what I got:

I moved my rear axle back 4" for a couple reasons, to stretch the wheelbase, and help departure angle.

I already have the rocksliders welded to the body.
I need to open up the rear of the wheel opening to clear the repositioned rear tires.

So do I just stretch the opening enough to just clear the tire, leaving it looking offset in the opening...(which might look cool to a point)
or do I open it up enough to center the tire in the opening, which might take it back pretty close to the gas filler area (which isn't a concern as the filler hole will be gone anyway)
The tire that is on there is a 31", the 39.5's will be filling the hole.
Can anyone do a photochop and move the wheelwell opening?


Ironmaiden358.jpg
 
Open the wheel opening up like this?

with a 40" tire in there???? (guessing at size)

Ironmaiden358 mod.JPG
 
put the tires on first Dave. I have seen alot of messed up trim jobs happen cause they did way too much in one area or the other cause the tire was not mounted up yet
 
ditto, get some rubber in there... I'd shorten the fang up first, then figure out how much you need...
 
put the tires on first Dave. I have seen alot of messed up trim jobs happen cause they did way too much in one area or the other cause the tire was not mounted up yet


So true! I played this game and lost on my K5. :doah:This pic shows the rear set back 5" with a 43" tire. If you look real close you can see the cut line around the wheel opening on the outer skin, it's still hanging there because I had not cut the inner tub yet. Anyways... I drew the line and cut it without the tire and later found I should not have cut so much on the front side. You can also see the cut line is very close to the gas door.

I moved the axle back to the stock location and it's still there now but I think I may try to split the diff and move it back about 1.5"~2" and see how it looks.

Tiresb.jpg
 
I also think you are going to have to cut the whole flared part off of it to look right.

Is your gas tank not hooked up to the fuel filler? I don't remember, I know you modded said gas tank but I don't remember where you are going to fill it

Also seeing Johns blazer above it you can get it to work with everything one word AWESOME!
 
I also think you are going to have to cut the whole flared part off of it to look right.

find another blazer or pickup what ever, with the same body. then cut out the rear part of the fender well taking the whole flat part on top of the opening with. stretch the wheel well to were you want it(keeping in mind that the axle moves backwards a little at full stuff) and weld it in matching the old body lines. this way you can keep a factory looking fender lip. but with a much wider opening.
 
So in all seriousness this has the evil little wheels in my brain turning, oh and they are evil. :D:D

Last time those wheels turned I cut the cab off my truck :doah:
 
Really I'd like to keep it mostly full body, or I at least have to get it painted first....then tear it up, then go buggy....hopefully that'll take a few years....
 
After seeing everyone go to buggies I think it will save money to just buy a chassis instead of caging my truck when I get to that point
 
Really I'd like to keep it mostly full body, or I at least have to get it painted first....then tear it up, then go buggy....hopefully that'll take a few years....

I have been wheeling a full bodied blazer for about 4 years, then on to the cab truck (Horton) then to the truggy. So total wheeling time of about 8 years really. My next rockcrawler will be a buggy but Horton still has a very long ways to go.
 
I'm still a web wheeler so I've still got awhile :haha:
 
pardon my paint non skills but This is what you want right:rolleyes: PS; I have no idea whos k5 this is

jeffg3.jpg
 
pardon my paint non skills but This is what you want right:rolleyes: PS; I have no idea whos k5 this is


Yeah thats it Rick....now to chop the front fender up, and put 40's in there!
 
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