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Rear Springs/Suspension

LNielson

LNielson

1/2 ton status
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Location
SE Idaho
I'm working on a plan to replace my existing 4" block with springs and/or shackle flip on my K30 crewcab. My truck has the factory 8+overload 56" 3,500lb rated spring pack. Wheel hop is a real issue with the existing setup.

I'm not trying to go hardcore wheeling with this truck, but it does see a fair amount of mountain trails and forest service roads in the area. I'm going to try to get down to Blazer Bash this year with it, so maybe a more challenging trail or two in my future. I mainly use it for general purposes: pulling a 20 foot carhauler and other smaller trailers, daily driving it on the weekends, getting firewood, hauling dirt rocks junk, etc.

Front suspension is Tuff Country 4" HD's and I like it. Works well for how I use the truck.

I'll be upgrading to Bilstein shocks along with whatever other changes I make

Here's the rear suspension options I'm considering:

1. New Tuff Country 4" lift springs to match the fronts and keep the tension shackle setup with new greasable bushings. I'd add airbags too if I found I needed more payload capacity.

@obijuank5 You just put Procomps on yours? Do you know how they compare to the Tuff Country 56" spring? Was it the Procomp 13511 spring that you went with?

2. New 56" 2,600 lb spring PN:22-547 on sdtrucksprings.com and a shackle flip to get the 4" lift I need. I can add air bags if I find I need it to boost payload.

3. New stock replacement springs with the shackle flip. Payload capacity will not be a factor with those springs.

4. New 64" springs: 5" lift with tension shackle setup. Way overkill for my current use of the truck so I'm kind of counting this one out for now.

What would you do?
 
New 64" and a traction bar.

I know that overall the added length on paper doesn't help much. But in the real world I've done a couple on squares and every one was happy.

Oh and LINK IT! with bags:whistle:
 
Where's the nekked or bacon option for this poll?

When I get back to work I'll cruise the catalog and see if I can find comparison data between TC and procomp. People hate on procomp but it's pretty good shit.
I think that's my part number but 4" rear 56. The only one they offer. I have not flexed this setup with rear springs so not sure how they would compare to a flip. My blazer has a flip and 56s and it kinda sucks for all the hype about it when I installed it years ago.

In any result you choose, lower payload will just ride better. Those stock rear springs are tough. Lose em.
 
Oh also Lane can I have your old springs .lol I'll come help for a Saturday
 
For a weekend warrior that also expects to tow large trailers with it (as apposed to my SeaDoo trailer) I'll say keep the tension shackle. Don't shackle flip it for what you want to do. Either do a soft lift spring or lift 64s with airbags. Either way, softer spring and airbags sounds good. You might be in for an anti-wrap bar but I wouldn't really know.

Just realize you will need to remove the airbags for Moab. They really don't like over stretching when trying to droop one side :D
 
traction bar kit from diy4x or ORD . . will help a lot on wheel hop .

and fyi installing 64" springs on pickup trucks even crew cabs = gas tank relocation .

only thing with bags and flex = possible torn bag from it limiting flex drop .
 
blazinzuk said:
New 64" and a traction bar.

I know that overall the added length on paper doesn't help much. But in the real world I've done a couple on squares and every one was happy.

Oh and LINK IT! with bags:whistle:
Click to expand...

blazinzuk said:
Oh also Lane can I have your old springs .lol I'll come help for a Saturday
Click to expand...

Maybe 64's are the way to go? Links are next level stuff, would be totally awesome, but maybe overkill.

Whichever way I go, you can have the tired old 1-ton springs.
 
:eek:
obijuank5 said:
Where's the nekked or bacon option for this poll?

When I get back to work I'll cruise the catalog and see if I can find comparison data between TC and procomp. People hate on procomp but it's pretty good shit.
I think that's my part number but 4" rear 56. The only one they offer. I have not flexed this setup with rear springs so not sure how they would compare to a flip. My blazer has a flip and 56s and it kinda sucks for all the hype about it when I installed it years ago.

In any result you choose, lower payload will just ride better. Those stock rear springs are tough. Lose em.
Click to expand...

I'll grease the bushings with bacon fat, while nekkid, the neighbors will love that since my truck only fits half in the garage.:D

I'd appreciate the info on the springs. I may just copy your rear setup. It would probably be the simplest option, and maybe the best too.

Totally agree on ditching the monster big spring pack. It's been OK but i'm actively making stuff better on this truck now.
 
K85 Octane said:
For a weekend warrior that also expects to tow large trailers with it (as apposed to my SeaDoo trailer) I'll say keep the tension shackle. Don't shackle flip it for what you want to do. Either do a soft lift spring or lift 64s with airbags. Either way, softer spring and airbags sounds good. You might be in for an anti-wrap bar but I wouldn't really know.

Just realize you will need to remove the airbags for Moab. They really don't like over stretching when trying to droop one side :D
Click to expand...

That's kind of how I was thinking about the shackle flip too. On the surface it sounds, and is, cool but in the bigger picture it might not be the best answer.

Someone (daystar maybe?) makes a lower mount that isn't actually attached to the air bag so you don't tear one drooping it out. Some of the hauling trucks at my work are setup with the nice airbag systems and they rock. Would definitely be a good way to go.
 
sweetk30 said:
traction bar kit from diy4x or ORD . . will help a lot on wheel hop .

and fyi installing 64" springs on pickup trucks even crew cabs = gas tank relocation .

only thing with bags and flex = possible torn bag from it limiting flex drop .
Click to expand...

Hey SweetK30

I've seen you post that spring here before. Sounds like a good option too. Are you currently running these 22-547's in your plow truck?

I'm hoping ditching that block will eliminate my wheel hop problem. I have always been planning on doing this which is why I haven't pursued a traction bar yet. I'll probably get ORD's kit and fab my own with their parts if I still need one when all this is said and done.

Airbags with that unattached cradle sound almost too good to be true, maybe it is?
 
sweetk30 said:
and fyi installing 64" springs on pickup trucks even crew cabs = gas tank relocation
Click to expand...

I actually think i will chop this for a shortbed and relocate the tank anyways. Down the road a single tank will make the upgrade to Fuel Injection simpler too. That space would be available for 64's.
 
It is daystar that offers the lower air bag cup. We install it on every lifted or flexy truck whether they want it or not.
It is a great product.
 
I am having a problem with wheel hop in my crew cab too, but only when braking. I think the problem may be a device called a "load level proportioning valve". I do not know if your truck came with one of these. GM had a known issue with these, and put out a service bulletin on the valves. GM says you can by-pass this valve, and have no negative effects on braking. All you have to do connect the two ports that screw into the valve together, in order to by-pass it.

attachment.php
 
yep 22-547 rears @ 2600lbs per pack . but my current plow truck is stupid short so I cant give you a real world ride comparison yet. . . they are going in the budget beater real soon tho and that's a std cab long bed truck .

my buddys truck we put them in with rear with a 4" flip kit and polly bushings . he loves the ride of the k30 . he also got a brand new pair of 4" tuff country hd springs in the front .

my plow machine build got 3" tuff country hd fronts and 22-547 rears with a 3" block and firestone air bag kit . if I need to I will do traction bar kit .
 
1-ton said:
I am having a problem with wheel hop in my crew cab too, but only when braking. I think the problem may be a device called a "load level proportioning valve". I do not know if your truck came with one of these. GM had a known issue with these, and put out a service bulletin on the valves. GM says you can by-pass this valve, and have no negative effects on braking. All you have to do connect the two ports that screw into the valve together, in order to by-pass it.

attachment.php
Click to expand...

I took the valve out when I first lifted my truck.

I only get wheel hop in two scenarios I've noticed. When i attempt a burnout, which i usually avoid because the wheel hop is violent. That isn't too big of a deal. Where it sucks the worst is those times offroad when you really need to put power to the ground and can't because the wheel hop is actively tearing your truck apart. I'm sure a traction bar would fix my issues. I'll add one if I still need one after the upgrade. If @blazinzuk can convince me to link it up, I won't have to worry about that any more.
 
LNielson said:
I took the valve out when I first lifted my truck.

I only get wheel hop in two scenarios I've noticed. When i attempt a burnout, which i usually avoid because the wheel hop is violent. That isn't too big of a deal. Where it sucks the worst is those times offroad when you really need to put power to the ground and can't because the wheel hop is actively tearing your truck apart. I'm sure a traction bar would fix my issues. I'll add one if I still need one after the upgrade. If @blazinzuk can convince me to link it up, I won't have to worry about that any more.
Click to expand...

Your wheel hop problem is definitely different from mine. It does sound like a trac-bar would help.
 
Last edited:
LNielson said:
I took the valve out when I first lifted my truck.

I only get wheel hop in two scenarios I've noticed. When i attempt a burnout, which i usually avoid because the wheel hop is violent. That isn't too big of a deal. Where it sucks the worst is those times offroad when you really need to put power to the ground and can't because the wheel hop is actively tearing your truck apart. I'm sure a traction bar would fix my issues. I'll add one if I still need one after the upgrade. If @blazinzuk can convince me to link it up, I won't have to worry about that any more.
Click to expand...


Must be nice to be able to do burnouts.

#tbi350life
 
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