Rebuilding a '95 IFS front-end!

[BigBen]

OK guys, most of my questions have been answered here already by searching. However, I still have a couple questions to ask.

Vehicle in question:
Bone Stock '95 Yukon GT with 246,000 miles.
(Finally time to replace the original front end parts)

I've been looking on RockAuto and I'm trying to decide between AC Delco parts and MOOG. The prices are similar. I always hear everyon talking about MOOG being the best, but if the OEM stuff lasted 200,000+ miles, should I be replacing with AC Delco or MOOG?

I'm planning to order and have on hand:

Pitman Arm
Idler Arm
Idler arm bracket
Inner and Outer Tie Rods
Tie rod adjustment sleeves
Upper and Lower ball Joints
Upper Control Arm bushings.

I'll either borrow/buy:
Ball Joint Press
Ball joint/tie rod seperator
Pitman arm puller

Do you guys recommend a pickle fork, or one of the threaded/clamp type seperators?


Oh, and lower control arms....
Do I need to replace those bushings?
I read something claiming that they were non-replaceable?

One more

Do I just loosen the bolts for the torsion bars, or do I need that c-clamp-ish tool to compress them?

Heck, if I don't do the lower control arm bushings, do I even need to mess with the torsion bars, or do I just support it with a jack?

OK, enough questions from me.

I'll appreciate any help you guys can offer!

-Ben

 

[Copasetic]

When my 90 1500 was driven on a daily basis, I changed out quite a few idle arms and cv axles. I went with MOOG myself because of the lifetime warranty which I needed. When it was time to replace parts, I took them all off at the same time, swapped them out, and had basically a rebuilt fornt end. So look at the warranty aspect as well and good luck.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

When I owned mine a good number of years ago the MOOG stuff was pretty superior to the GM/AC stuff. A lot of experience driven improvements went into their stuff and the AC Delco/GM stuff was all straight replacement for what left the factory.

 

[1979jimmy350]

your not going to need a ball joint press on the 4x4's there just riveted in not pressed in. For the pitman arm you will need to pull the steering box off, there is not enough room to get the arm off on the truck. I have rebuilt many IFS chevy Front ends

 

[sweetk30]

hope to he!! he dosnt have the pain in the a$$ a arms that you need to drill out the rivits cause thay are sandwiched in place of the arms.

the more comon style is much easyer. i just melt off the rivit heads 1 at a time and have a center punch/air chissle ready when the rivits hot and pop it out.

if you arnt sure of the style arms you have post pics. other than that sounds like you have it under control.

my choice is moog as thay solve o.e problems.

 

[BigBen]

OK guys, looks like a resounding vote for MOOG.

I thought I had press-in lowers, but I'll have to look this weekend.
I'll post pics and get more advice bfore I start!

Thanks so far,

-Ben

 

[BigBen]

Hey guys,

Any thoughts on those front control arm bushings?

Are they even serviceable? Is it worth trying to do?

Thanks,

-Ben

 

[1979jimmy350]

i have done them before it is not to bad to do them, air hammer to get them out and a press to get them in

 

[BigBen]

OK, I've got a press and can pick up an air hammer.

Did you do uppers, lowers, or both?

-Ben

 

[1979jimmy350]

OK, I've got a press and can pick up an air hammer.

Did you do uppers, lowers, or both?

-Ben

just the uppers, the lowers require removal of the torsen bar

 

[sweetk30]

fyi if doing bushings and ball joints check dealer for complete arms.

sometimes its cheeper and much faster to get loaded arm and bolt it in.