What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rebuilding the Quadrajet

Alright thanks Dorian, I will remember that on saturday (or sunday) when I start dissaembling it.
For those who didn't see my other thread, I went to get the carb kit, and they didn't have it, so I can't get it till saturday.
But I did finally get carb cleaner...6 bucks for a can...so I only got 1 can.
 
Yes, definately pay attention and maybe even take pics when taking the choke apart. All the little brackets are hard to remeber which way they go on etc. That was the only problem I had when I took mine apart to clean etc. Pretty simple other than that.
 
Six Bucks????

Holy Shinola! SIX BUCKS a can???- :eek: :eek1: :screwy: :yikes: -I can get it at Wal-Mart For 88 cents a can!--even the rapist parts stores get only 2.99 a can for Gumout or other stuff that works good...man--I'm glad I dont have to pay that here--I'd have tons of yellow jackets in my shop without carb cleaner! :crazy:
 
I hate Q-jets but I'll give a couple of things to look at. First check the throttle shafts for slop around the shaft. The end with the throttle linkage on it is usually the worst. When you wiggle it if you can see any side to side movement its probably to loose and may cause a vacuum leak. Next the carb body comes in 3 parts, the top , the middle ( it has the float chamber and has the fuel inlet cast into the front) and the bottom which is the throttle body section. On the bottom of the center section you will see 2 plugs set into the body, sometimes these plugs seep fuel. The cheap and easy fix is to cover them with liquid steel, just a light coat maybe 1 mil thick or slightly thicker. If I do one of these carbs I do this to it each time. No matter what replace the float, cheap insurance if the float gets heavy or already is heavy. You need a straightedge to check the carb for flatness, the cheapest and easiest one I've found is a sliding t square from a home center, cost about six bucks american, but any woodworker will have one...call a carpenter friend and borrow his for a couple of hours. With the carb apart check the top and bottom of the throttle body, both sides of the center section, and the bottom of the top section (the side that goes against the center section not the air cleaner side). It won't be surprising if the top or bottom is a little warped, if it got overtightened, it got warped. If you are careful you can straighten these out in a bench vise.
A cheap and easy soaking solution is paint thinner. Go to the home store and buy the cheapest gallon of thinner they have and stop by the paint dept. for a new clean empty gallon paint can with a lid. once the carb is apart you can usually fit all the parts into it and then fill it with the thinner, put the lid on and let it soak for a couple of hours. DO THIS OUTSIDE! You will have some fumes and you don't want them in the house.
Last get the book Rochester Carbs by Doug Roe, its on amazon today for $12.89 american. Its the best book on Q-jets for anybody or any experience level. Good luck. Oh by the way, the caddy carb should be off a 425 cubic inch engine or the HT-4100 so it should be plenty big enough for a small block.
George
 
George, wow! Thanks for all the info! A member on this board lent me that book you are talking about, down the road I will definitly buy it though!! Why do you hate Q-jets? What is liquid steel? Where can I get it? Thanks

Rustbucket, I will bring the camera with me outside and take lots of pics when I start taking it apart. In this case a picture is worth a thousand words!! :D

diesel4me, yeah it;s expensive...but its also canadian money so its closer to 4.00 american I think. still alot of $$$ though!!

Thanks guys!!
 
Liquid steel is probably along the same lines of (I'm sure not the same) as JB Weld. I've JB welded those plugs as well. Scuff up the metal a bit, dab some on.

Purpose of this is to keep the fuel in the float bowl from emptying as the truck sits. Supposedly will happen when it's running too, but if it has on my vehicles, I've never experienced it. I *have* seen them go dry overnight though.
 
Alright. I know what JB weld is, we have lots here. I just didn't know what liquid steel is, but I think your right, it's probably simular to JB weld... I will just use JB weld when the time comes.

Thanks
 
JB weld is way better than liquid steel, didn't know if you could get it in BC. I've had better luck tuning an edelbrock and its easier I think than a Qjet. If you have a good working Q-jet they are a good all around carb, when they don't work your life can really suck.
George
 
The plug fix is covered in the Doug Roe book as well. It's in the step by step reassembly.
 
Perfect! Thanks! I am going to read it the procedure tomorrow morning, so I know what I am doing tomorrow afternoon or sunday...
 
OKay I picked it up today...but I am stumped...

the box came with 3 instruction booklets...and they dont have the numbers on them, they have model numbers, instead of the ID number. Can anyone help me out? The case that all the parts are in is sealed with plastic, if I open it I cannot return it...so I want to make sure I have the right one first...cost me 50 dollars after taxes :frown1: hopefully it will have extra pieces!!

These are the model numbers:
1st book is- m4med - m4mef
2nd book is - m4mc, m4mca, m4mea
3rd book is - m4mc-m4me

I dont know if the parts are interchangable...but I guess maybe they are between these models? :confused:

I will check in the carb book I am borrowing to see if it has the numbers.

Thanks
 
Steve.

The prefix is just a series designator. Example: 350 engine in 1970 with 4 barrel carb, the carb was referred to as the 4MV

1982 there was a M4ME, M4MC and in 1983 they added another series number, E4ME.

Just their way of identifying Q-jets based on application. The three instruction booklets just mean your kit is designed to rebuild any of those series number carbs.

The series number is based on year, engine, size (2 or 4 barrel) etc. If I remember right you said this was for a 1982? The M4MC or M4ME should be the instruction book you want to follow. If your not sure post up the year of your vehicle and the 170 ID number and I will try to help pinpoint the correct series number.
 
84gmcjimmy said:
I don't know how to say this, but I am F&*$#ing dumb.
I went out to take pictures of the crack for James (jiminycricket) to see if I could use any parts off of it.
When I looked at the crack when it was on the manifold, it looked like a crack, and felt like one.
With better lighting in the shop, I found out something...
THERE IS NO crack. There is a little line of some brownish red fluid someone dropped and it ran down the side, but also there is more on fuel filter part.
I doulbed checked to make sure it was ON TOP, I took a piece of sandpaper and rubbed twice in the area...what do you know, it's gone.

So looks like the "new" carb is for spare, might also rebuild it down the road. I will rebuild the "old" one now.

So much for my statis of gaining more knowledge...this is probably one of the stupidiest mistakes I've made. Luckily I'm not out much money on the carb, just need to pay a few bucks for shipping.

Sorry guys :o

I'll show some pics after dinner...1 hour
Click to expand...


Sorry about that Steve. Like i said I got it from a friend and the info he gave me is what I posted. If you haven't sent the money off yet, use it toward your membership, isn't a biggie for me. Sorry if I gave you any bum scoop about it but I am not a carb expert.
 
jiminycricket said:
Steve.

The prefix is just a series designator. Example: 350 engine in 1970 with 4 barrel carb, the carb was referred to as the 4MV

1982 there was a M4ME, M4MC and in 1983 they added another series number, E4ME.

Just their way of identifying Q-jets based on application. The three instruction booklets just mean your kit is designed to rebuild any of those series number carbs.

The series number is based on year, engine, size (2 or 4 barrel) etc. If I remember right you said this was for a 1982? The M4MC or M4ME should be the instruction book you want to follow. If your not sure post up the year of your vehicle and the 170 ID number and I will try to help pinpoint the correct series number.
Click to expand...


Vehicle is 1984 Jimmy...the 170 number is...17085238
Thanks! I'm not so confused anymore :)

james (stomper) no worries! I can always use it on a different vehicle...I still have many years before I die, and within that time period, I will put that carb to good use! Thanks!
 
Yep,

Use the third instruction booklet as a reference: M4MC / M4ME. Also use the Doug Roe book step by step section.
 
Okay, hopefully this isn't too dumb of me, but just to double check before I open it and whatnot, it will work for my carb? Just dont want to waste 50 dollars...
 
Well Steve,

4 barrel Q-jets are very similar between the years with minor changes. Kits are generally designed to rebuild several models.

If your not sure then call the kit supplier BEFORE you open the package. Give them your carb info again and confirm you have the correct kit. If you have questions just ask them straight out and don't be concerned about sounding dumb. Just ask your questions until you are satisfied with the answers.
 
Alright. I am pretty confident it is the right one, it's just how they made the instructions that messed me up. Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom