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redrilling a welded up hole

cegusman

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I have some ORD shackles that I was going to use for my antiwrap bar. Had a friend drill out one of the holes to 3/4" except he did it a 1/16" larger. If i weld up the hole will I have trouble redrilling it to the proper size?
 
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I would think so, unless you have a mill with a carbide bit. The only time I've tried to drill a weld it didn't turn out well at all, but I didn't weld it either. But you can always try it by welding up something else and trying to drill that.

Or you could just buy a 13/16" bolt! :whistle:
 
Wish it was that easy with a 13/16" bolt. but the orbital joint the bolt goes through is 3/4". Guess I will just have to order some new shackles
 
Wish it was that easy with a 13/16" bolt. but the orbital joint the bolt goes through is 3/4". Guess I will just have to order some new shackles

I was joking on the bolt, even if the joint would fit it, you may have trouble procuring a 13/16" bolt.

However, if your friend can drill the steel, why not get some bar stock and just make your own shackles? Cut it off, drill two holes, and grind the corners round.

Also, I am sure ORD or DIY4X would both send you shackles with a 3/4" hole if you call them.

Whatever you do, stay positive, it's not worth beating yourself to death on the keyboard for. :1zhelp: :wink1:
 
Ive done it before. The trick is to grind the surface of the weld dead flat with the rest of the shackle and use a drill press.
 
Ive done it before. The trick is to grind the surface of the weld dead flat with the rest of the shackle and use a drill press.

And to keep the drill bit cool, I am not talking just a squirt of wd 40 now and again. like a steady slow stream of whatever you are using to keep it cool.
 
You could do it with a Dremel....although you might want to see just how much of an issue 1/16" is with a fastener that large. It may not be that much slop.

And a pair of shackles costs all of about $10 worth of strap and about 20 minutes to make.
 
Yeah I know it wont cost much to make. It has already cost me $300 plus for these shackles. Due to breaking my hand with a 1/2" drill. Then give them to a friend to drill/ f awk up. So I guess a little more money wont hurt.
 
If you weld it up use the mig welder... If you tig it, it gets really hard due to the extra heat and it will kill a good drill bit right now! Ive tig welded holes up and couldnt re drill them. Dont know if I had a stainless rod or what was going on. I only mig weld up holes to redrill these days. What ever its worth?
 
Is .019 of slop really worth all of that work? I got that figure from taking 1/16" dividing it by pi and the answer is the amount of room between the bolt and the edge of the metal when using a 3/4" bolt and a 13/16" hole. If anyone really cares!
 
Is .019 of slop really worth all of that work? I got that figure from taking 1/16" dividing it by pi and the answer is the amount of room between the bolt and the edge of the metal when using a 3/4" bolt and a 13/16" hole. If anyone really cares!

Uh??? pi*d=circumference...we're not calculating tire rolling distance :D
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How close do you think the sleeves inside leaf spring bushings are at installation, and after they've been in there and flexed out for a few years. We're just talking about an anti-wrap bar, right? Deflection of the beam is probably just as relevant here as 4% of dimensions at the shackle. We're not talking about the Challenger space shuttle here.
 
Unless you use a hard-surfacing rod, the reason the weld is hard to drill is because it got hardened by rapid cooling.
When you arc weld a part, the heat is confined to a small area, and when you quit welding, the rest of the mass sucks the heat out fast and makes the weld hard.

This is also the reason many welds crack just past the weld. There is a very thin line between the really hard metal and the softer metal next to it. This acts as a stress riser and concentrates all the stress on that area.

All you have to do is anneal the weld.
After you are through, grab a rosebud torch, or whatever torch you have with a wide tip.
Heat the weld up until its cherry red, hold it at that heat for a few seconds to let the heat spread, and then let it cool slowly out of any moving air.

It should drill just fine after that.

If you are worried about having drawn the temper of the steel, just re-harden it after you have drilled it.

Polish up a section, heat it slowly with the torch and watch the color of the shiny part.
When it turns a deep blue or purple, let it sit for a few seconds, and then quench it in a bucket of oil.
If you want it harder than that, just let it continue to change colors until the blue/purple starts to lighten up toward a straw color and then quench it.

If you don't want to waste the oil, or if the smoke and flames are a problem, then use salt water.
Its not too thick, so you might get away just fine with fresh water, but why take the chance?
 
I did it right here.
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it was hard as hell to re-drill it. just like Eric said cool it with constant flow of cutting oil.
Mine worked out, but it took a while to drill.
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Tapping the hole was even worse. but, it worked as well, just took a while.
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