removing/installing sm465 pilot bearing

[chevyguybc]

okay , while im into the heart of the beast I think I should replace it as well, how the hell do I get it out and the new one back in

87 4x4

 

[chevyguybc]

is the roller bearing factory or the bushing, my 87 has a roller bearing, maybe ill just leave it as is, the clutch didnt shutter

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

You mean the bushing/bearing in the end of the crankshaft? The bushing is generally considered better; it holds up better to dirt and dust.

 

[chevyguybc]

yeha how the hell does it come out, mine is the roller bearing,

how much and where do you get the bushing, stealership?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

You need a slide hammer to remove it, most chain parts stores will rent you one for free.

Otherwise, you'll need to cut it out using a sawzall or similar tool (be very careful not to hurt the crank)

 

[chevyguybc]

ahh fun, i may just leave it in there then.. i am after all just putting in a basic mu1909 napa clutch kit( it came with the truck)

 

[MattK]

The slide hammer they loan out at Autzone makes quick work of it.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Your call, pilot bearing/bushing failures are pretty rare but by the same right they are one of those things that are always recommended replacements when you have it torn down that far.

If it failed, it could cause a bunch of $$ for an input gear replacement and the labor to remove the trans (and/or t-case) again.

I didn't replace the pilot bushing on either of my last two DD's, no issues.


Like I said, I usually replace them. They're cheap, easy to replace (if you're replacing the clutch anyway) and well worth the small cost and effort IMO.

 

[rcamacho]

I've found that the screw in removal tool that leverages a grease gun works great. On the reverse installation freeze the bushing first and then tap in with a steel pilot tool.

 

[kaharshs]

I bought mine at kragen (csk) they had both roller and bushing both were less than $20 check online for the price.


I dont use slide hammers any where on a crank if installed in a engine. You "could" damage bearing. You could use a miniture puller to grab the back of the roller bearing, a large self tapping screw that you can get wedge in the bearing works if you can get a puller inside of it, rotary file it in half ect. On a bushing I have tapped them and just put a bolt in and used a puller.

 

[Russell]

I have a nifty trick for you to try out!

Shove the end of your grease gun into the bearing and start pumping grease in there. It isn't well known, but your grease gun makes something like 2000 PSI of pressure if you can pump it right up, and it'll pop the bearing out using just hydraulic pressure. No damage to thrust / main bearings, and just requires you to clean the grease out of the end of the crank before installing a new bushing or bearing (go bushing IMO!)

 

[chevyguybc]

wow russell thats an awesome trick, I ended up just leaving the roller bearing version in there, it didnt have much play with the alignment tool, and when i did drive the truck, it was fine....

I am just daily driving this truck, with the random camping trips

If I want to build a crazy 4x4 chev, im gunna look for a k5 again, I owned a 77 for awhile that I built up, it had lifted 52s up front, but was 3/4ton

 

[cegusman]

I have a nifty trick for you to try out!

Shove the end of your grease gun into the bearing and start pumping grease in there. It isn't well known, but your grease gun makes something like 2000 PSI of pressure if you can pump it right up, and it'll pop the bearing out using just hydraulic pressure. No damage to thrust / main bearings, and just requires you to clean the grease out of the end of the crank before installing a new bushing or bearing (go bushing IMO!)

Yep works like a charm. Easiest way I have gotten mine out.