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Replacing Pinion Seals

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by IGOR, Feb 11, 2003.

  1. IGOR

    IGOR 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    May 16, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Damascus, OR
    If I'm going to replace the Pinion seals on a rear 14 bolt & front Corp 10, is there anything special I need to do when setting the gears back together - other than checking the gear backlash at the beginning? (Or do I even need to do that?)

    Both of these have crush style setups - would it be wise to get a new crush sleeve when I change the seals, or can I use the existing?

  2. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

    Jul 10, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Crush sleeve = major PITA

    I've never done it on a 10 bolt.
    On a 14 bolt, you can remove the yoke, remove the pinion seal and replace it with a new one, then torque the yoke to about 150 ft lbs and use red loctite.
    This is NOT exact. I used to think that you should replace the crush sleeve everytime, but having set up gears and replaced the crush sleeve, I can tell you it takes a LOT of force to crush the sleeve, so approx 150 ft lbs (by feel) will take up all the slack but shouldn't crush the crush sleeve even the slightest.

    If you read a book or call a shop they'll tell you to use a new crush sleeve and also to use a new nut.
    I also don't see a need for a new nut since red loctite works perfectly.
    -- Mike
  3. K5Kell

    K5Kell Guest

    One thing I do is put RTV sealent in the seal so it keeps water out better. just an idea though.
  4. weisel

    weisel 1/2 ton status

    Feb 22, 2001
    Likes Received:
    Laveen, AZ
    I did the same thing as TX Mudder says. But mine was a 12 bolt, don't think it is much different. Mine took one BIG hammer to get the seal compleatly seated. Just use a peice of tubbing or something to hammer on so it presses the whole seal at the same time.

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